Over Heating Rear Wheels

[Joe 636]

Several months ago,I had a problem with my rear brake callipers on my, mk 2 Galaxy,I changed the discs and pads and and freed off the calliper springs which was causing the handbrake to stick on.This has occurred twice since,so I decided to change the callipers at a local garage.They fitted a reconditioned pair.On getting the vehicle back my o/s wheel became hot after 2 miles of driving.I took the vehicle back, they changed the pads,and now both wheels are getting warm/hot after 10 miles of driving,any suggestions?

[chrispb123456]

Hi and welcome to the forum

Have a check of the brake fluid level, the level may now be to high after winding back pistons, assuming the caliper sliding brackets are free and not seized.

[bigdave982]

Check all the old brakedust ,rust and other assorted crap is cleaned off the caliper bracket where the pads live,top and bottom front and back

 

this can build up and stop pads releasing properly . cleaned mine and cured similir probs

[Bigjeeze]

If the calipers have been changed then it seems unlikley that they are the problem. COuld it be a wheel bearing running dry? Or if the calipers are working correctly maybe the handbrake cables are seizing in the outers and this is holding the pads in.

[seatkid]

1. Check the foot brake pedal is releasing fully. I have known it to sometimes not fully come up (dont know why) and you can use your toe to lift it up another inch or so.

 

Check the handbrake lever(s) on the calipers are coming fully back to the stops. Even 3-4 mm from the endstop is enough to apply the brake pads to the discs.

 

I'm pretty sure you'll find that they arent coming back fully anyway. Reasons for that are

 

2. Over-adjusted handbrake.

 

3. The return spring at the back end on the centre brake cable has gone awol after the plastic retainer slipped/stripped off.

 

4. Partly Seized rusty cables to the individual calipers

 

5. The parking mechanism inside the "reconditioned" caliper(s) is rusted and not allowing the levers to come back. In this case, apply liberal amount of penetrating oil on the shaft going into the caliper (lift the simple ineffective rubber seal and of course make sure the oil doesnt get any where near the discs/pads/) and "work" the lever. This will effect a temporary repair, as the rusts still in there and it will require redoing in a few weeks or months time.

 

 

Usually a combination of all the above.