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Galaxy Tdi 90 1998 Sometimes Looses Power


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Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted

ok update,just taped up the pipe,and ive taking all the injecter pipes off that were blemished and stripped the blemished bits off the pipe and stretched each piece of pipe to see if there are any holes in it but couldnt see any,i have air pipe hose but is a little bit bigger than fuel pipe hose so cleaned up old pipes then replaced they still look ok when top layer of pipe was taken off??? still sucking air in from somewhere got a new T piece ordered which goes on top of the fuel filter gonna try that as i heard it could be that,i did replace the old one with another one from scrap yard but didnt make any diff... so gonna try a new one,also at same time gonna put a new fuel filter on,im right in thinking when changing fuel filter you fil in to the top with diesel so air doesnt get in??

I wait your replys cheers all

Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted
update no loss of power but still takes 8 cranks to start when engine hot solenoid is making clicking noise so i assume it is working correct??? still small bubbles of air in pipe on engine
Posted

update no loss of power but still takes 8 cranks to start when engine hot solenoid is making clicking noise so i assume it is working correct??? still small bubbles of air in pipe on engine

You still need to rule out power loss to solenoid while cranking.

Just confirm this by doing the temporary wire from the battery, if it still dont start at least we can rule out supply fault.

Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted
Hi Chris,Right have done the connection to solenoid to battery using normal cable from a power washer joined all 3 cables together so it was stronger,anyway connected it and it clicks on and off nice when i touch the battery plus,also tried to crack engine after a hour long journey when it was connected and still wouldnt start tried this 3 times by moving wire around the plus bit on battery to be sure it was touching properly other end was bolted back on,on top of wire so it was touching,so i think we are safe to say its not the solenoid,i wait your reply cheers P.s bloody cars :(
Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted
update car started to loose power today again on and off,my fuel was very very low-like 5 miles left- was this something to do with it ?
Posted (edited)

update car started to loose power today again on and off,my fuel was very very low-like 5 miles left- was this something to do with it ?

 

:lol: What do you think? Why not treat it to some fuel. :rolleyes:

 

And a new T-piece while you're feeling flushed. (new as in not from a scrapyard) :wacko:

Edited by seatkid
Posted
We have 1999 tdi 110 zetec starts on the button when cold but is a pig when warm, it seems to be relatively common on 110 engines and is a problem with no easy cheap cure to be seen if you follow this link My link or search warm start you'll see many have been there before you. Personally I just live with it, after all it's never not started yet! The day it doesn't start i'll give it some more attention. My only thoughts with drawing air are the car can be parked for a week and start instantly, so why would it only draw air on a warm engine? and where does the air go as the engine cools? i'd of thought that once the air was in that it would stay in.
Posted

We have 1999 tdi 110 zetec starts on the button when cold but is a pig when warm, it seems to be relatively common on 110 engines and is a problem with no easy cheap cure to be seen if you follow this link My link or search warm start you'll see many have been there before you. Personally I just live with it, after all it's never not started yet! The day it doesn't start i'll give it some more attention. My only thoughts with drawing air are the car can be parked for a week and start instantly, so why would it only draw air on a warm engine? and where does the air go as the engine cools? i'd of thought that once the air was in that it would stay in.

 

The T-piece on the filter is a thermostatically controlled fuel return valve. It returns fuel to the filter when the temperature of the fuel is below/above 35 deg C IIRC (can't remember which way round though) and returns fuel to tank in the other condition.

Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted
update I fitted new T-piece last week costing 21 pounds from vw still tiny air bubbles in pipe,but i do agree with ads81 think mine is 90bhp engine but does what you said and always starts,power loss is on and off and moment like a whores knickers it went away for a week or so now is back,this has been like this for 10 months now sometimes problem stays away for longer,year i dont think its air as once i start it turn it off then takes 8 cranks to start again you would think after it starts getting fuel in then it would start straight after turning engine off?someone said compression as engine expands when hot,its just gets on ya tits when you sit there and people look and think ya car wont start lol,other thing i have noticed is the 5 pin plug that connects on the maf is broken and has been held on there by plastic tyes will get a picture on soon i have cleaned the plug also if i take it off the maf it does the problem which it does when looses power??? cheers all
Posted

We have 1999 tdi 110 zetec starts on the button when cold but is a pig when warm, it seems to be relatively common on 110 engines and is a problem with no easy cheap cure to be seen if you follow this link My link or search warm start you'll see many have been there before you. Personally I just live with it, after all it's never not started yet! The day it doesn't start i'll give it some more attention. My only thoughts with drawing air are the car can be parked for a week and start instantly, so why would it only draw air on a warm engine? and where does the air go as the engine cools? i'd of thought that once the air was in that it would stay in.

 

The T-piece on the filter is a thermostatically controlled fuel return valve. It returns fuel to the filter when the temperature of the fuel is below/above 35 deg C IIRC (can't remember which way round though) and returns fuel to tank in the other condition.

 

I'm not professing to be an expert in these matters, I just find it impossible to see how I can turn the car off then instantly try and restart it and it turns and turns for a good few seconds. But it never ever fails to start instantly from cold which leaves me thinking it can only be a tired starter or battery problem. Mine has covered less than 80k and been doing it since we got it at 64k, it has a service history like you wouldn't believe so shouldn't have that much wear considering these engines are good for 400k plus. As for the loss of power i've no idea i'm afraid.

Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted
Update.. just fitted a Maf Sensor which i got from scrap yard this is the part that goes on the black pipe to the air box,18 pound from scrap yard.any way problem still there its on and off in limp mode like a whores knickers power goes maybe for a second then back or it goes for maybe 1 miles then back again???? running out of idears???
Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted
Update car is ok today been over 100 miles no power loss 150 miles to 20 pound when engine warm 8 cranks to start when cold 1st time?
Posted

I haven't read every post on this but I can say from experience that the reluctant hot start is a common problem. Mine had it for about 50K before it died of neglect at about 250K. I could never remember when it started to behave like that but the conversations about it went on and on with several other sufferers and no-one ever claimed a cure. Logic supports the idea that it is a fuel problem because these thing start easily without the aid of glow-plugs almost down to zero and the only other possible cause is loss of compression which may support the start of the problem being associated with high mileage. I just put up with it and stopped noticing it.

 

Re the loss of power, has anyone mentioned the limp-home mode which can be initiated by a whole load of things such as intermittent water level sensor. I'm sure that, if you asked nicely, Seatkid could come up with a long list of possibilities. Of course, with this, it can be reset by just restarting the engine. I had a similar problem which was due to a totally different cause and got by for some time by just leaving the car running and just switching off and on again without slowing or dipping the clutch. I'm sure that someone will warn that doing this can be very dangerous but it worked for me. :lol:

Guest Aarongalaxy90tdi
Posted

Do you mean turn engine off whilst driving then on again?

 

Also yeah heard of limp mode my limp is on and off sometimes then it goes for weeks or days

Engine,yes it could be tired 140k on clock

thanks for input :lol:

Posted

Do you mean turn engine off whilst driving then on again?;)

 

That is exactly what I meant. Don't dip the clutch, just make sure you have no-one behind you and you are on a straight stretch of road - don't want the steering lock coming into play. :o

 

I plead insanity. :lol:

 

Incidentally, I had bubbles in my fuel line as well but never worked out why. It may have started when I let it get down to 1/4 tank and left it ticking over nose down on my 1 in 4 drive. All of the fuel runs to the front of the tank, out of reach of the output pipe. It took me nearly a week to get it started again. Maybe there's a clue there.

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