Coolant Gauge

[Galaxy newbie]

hi again. Right hopefully last problem. Got galaxy running bled clutch galaxy moves woohoo. Left engine running a good 15-20 mins and temp gauge on dash isn't moving. So where do I start. Should I change the cts would this be the first port of call. Thanks. Andy.

[seatkid]

The TDi is so efficient that very little heat is produced whilst idling. Its possible that even after 15mins idle you dont get the water over 50 deg C (the point at which the gauge starts to move). Remember also the galaxy has 7 litre water capacity with front and rear heater.

 

So take it for a run and it should reach 50 deg after about 2 - 3 miles in my experience. Normal (90 deg) can take another 2 - 5 miles depending on outside temp.

Edited May 1, 2011 by seatkid

[Galaxy newbie]

Thanks again seatkid will have to tax it and insure before I can do that but thanks will do that. So if after trying to drive it and get it up to temperature I get the same problem would my first port of call still be the cts?

[chrispb123456]

Just to add to what Seatkid has told you have a feel of the top radiator as the engine is warming up, it should stay cool till engines nearly up to normal 90, if it warms up gradually then thermostat or seal is letting coolant flow past.

The diesels also have a booster heater fitted under the car this should fire up automatically upon stating engine when outside air temp is below 5 degs on MK1 and 10 degs on MK2 this speeds up the warming up time in the winter months, of course these heaters arnt without there problems, lots of help in the FAQ's should you need it.

 

ps. is it starting OK now with the wire reattached to the pump?

[Galaxy newbie]

No still not starting with original wire attached to pump chris, only way for me to start it is to run a live straight to the battery from solenoid, so trying to find a suitable place to attach wire to that has 12v off ignition and nothing when off to stop it draining the battery, but I can't find one. Any ideas?

[chrispb123456]

No still not starting with original wire attached to pump chris, only way for me to start it is to run a live straight to the battery from solenoid, so trying to find a suitable place to attach wire to that has 12v off ignition and nothing when off to stop it draining the battery, but I can't find one. Any ideas?

If your still not getting flashing from door led then it shouldn't be blocked by the immobiliser.

Bit concerned running a bypass permanently, in one of your earlier posts you said you had 12 volts at the solenoid don't forget it should only be live for 2 or 3 seconds unless engine starts.

 

Have a look at the large multiplug on the engine harness look for corrosion and possible breaks in wiring, will send you the wiring diagram and you could check for 12 volts at the engine control unit.

 

[Galaxy newbie]

Chris I'm assuming you mean the single wire that comes off and connects to the top of the solenoid. Had 0.4v running to it and because of the colour (black/white) assumed it was an earth. Ran a direct feed to it anyway and car started instantaneously. Door led is fine no flashing, just 1 long light when I initially put key in and turn to stage 2. Then light goes out and no more lights even when cranking. When checked original wire with multimeter was getting o.4v for a few seconds then nothing and I've checked the wire as fas as I can to the main loom connection(big round plastic thing with all wires) and no voltage there either. So should I disconnect main loom and check for voltage at the pin that connects to the engine harness and check for voltage there as I assume if there is then it must just be that single wire that's duff?

[chrispb123456]

If I was you I would now go to the diesel control module terminal 53 and check for voltage there, it's behind instrument cluster.

Assuming you checked for any blown fuses?

[Galaxy newbie]

Diesel control module? Does that mean I have to pull the dash out if it's behind the instrument cluster, or is it in engine bay somewhere. I javent checked fuses but will check them whilst waiting a response. Thanks for all your help chris.

[chrispb123456]

Afraid so, thats the source of that wire terminal 53, fuse number 15 is for engine control looking at the power distribution diagram.

[Galaxy newbie]

So can I get to it by just removing the glass on the instrument panel I.e 2 screws. Will that give me enough access or is it a complete dash out jobby?

[chrispb123456]

You will need to remove the whole cluster assembly to reach the ECU

[Galaxy newbie]

Right stripped it down as far as the ECM but Haynes says there is a screw to be undone which then allows the clip to be pulled sideways but can't find it. Can I test it in situ or do I need to pull the ECM down to I can't find the right part to test?

[Galaxy newbie]

Also I assume when I find the right wire I can reconnect battery as long as I don't physically unplug the ECM wires. Take it all the other wires I've disconnected to get to that point are ok to be left unplugged?

[Galaxy newbie]

Ok ecu is still in place but there's only 1 huge group of wires coming out the ecu and in that lot there's only 1 white/black wire so can I just nick into the wire and test for voltage there as opposed to the terminal I can't see why not, and it SHOULD be the wire I'm after as well, will wait for a reply before going any further. Cheers. Andy

[chrispb123456]

Here's a copy of the ECU wiring, have circled no 53

 

[Galaxy newbie]

Chris can't work out how to get the ECM out to test tried sticking probe into what I thought was the right wire I.e only black/white one but when I turn ignition to stage 2 am getting audible constant beep and zero voltage from the wire. Any ideas on removing the ECM, Haynes says there's one screw holding "the clip" in place but not sure which one and not sure what to do next as can't pull ECM clear to check terminal. AARGGHH

[Galaxy newbie]

Ok have gone but to loom/engine loom multiplug am getting 12v to the wire, and when I connect the OLD engine loom to the multiplug I get my 12v to the fuel cut off wire but it stays constant, so think I'm going to revert to finding a 12v source which goes off when ignition is turned off as that seems to be how the old loom was wired. So where would be best to connect it?

[Galaxy newbie]

I would just use the old engine loom as that's working but it's missing the plug that runs to the side of the cylinder head(passenger side) unless I can remove and fit to the old engine loom is this possible?

[chrispb123456]

Am getting a bit confused here now, are you saying you were originally using the loom that came with your new engine? but now your using the loom from your old engine? and the 12 volt is that constant with the key turned off?

 

The black wire on the back of the ignition switch is live with ignition in the run position but what you would need to check is that it is still live when cranking the engine

[Galaxy newbie]

Finally sorted. Removed the engine loom harness from the new engine( cts sensor, diesel pump power, gearbox plug etc) and refitted the old engine loom from old block. Reconnected and now solenoid has 12v when ignition on and nothing when it's off, so I'm assuming there was a fault in the engine loom. Only thing is it wont reduce voltage when ignition left on after 3 seconds, but that must be how the old engine was running so hopefully it will be alright as everything is running through ecu as it should. A very big thank you to chris for all your advice and diagrams. Just insured car, gotta wait to tax in now, but gives me a chance to check everything over before her maiden voyage. Will keep you all posted.

[chrispb123456]

Hi Andy

Glad it all turned out alright, hope everything else is OK on the drive :unsure:

 

cheers Chris