Paamy Posted March 12, 2011 Report Posted March 12, 2011 My P reg 2.3 Galaxy (petrol) has started to feel 'lumpy'..sort of hunting? as if missing a plug (I feared a dodgy plug or blown valve but its not that)She runs fine at normal and high speeds but idles very fast when I slow/stop at junctions or lights.She seems to be a bit smelly though not of petrol and the ehaust tail pipe is black. I read some other similar forum chats and disconnected the MAF sensor - didn't make any difference except the high revving ran higher and longer.do I suspect/ replace the Lambda Sensor? What is that? where is it? Can I do that? About 6 months ago I had new coil packs fittedI also checked for leaks at the pipe that comes off the exhaust manifold as well as the two rubber hoses that connect to another sensor thing (not sure what it does or what its called) Quote
chrispb123456 Posted March 12, 2011 Report Posted March 12, 2011 Check for perished/split vacuum hoses this will cause idle speed to rise, if they are OK remove and clean out the idle speed control valve with a decarboniser Quote
Paamy Posted March 12, 2011 Author Report Posted March 12, 2011 Thaks for the suggestion - but am not sure which are the vacuum hoseswhere is the idle speed control please?what is best to use as a de carboniser? Quote
Paamy Posted March 12, 2011 Author Report Posted March 12, 2011 I have checked all hoses and they seem intactNot sure which is the Idle Speed Control Valve. The whole thing acts like the 'choke is out' - if it was a classic car like morris minor or spitfire, I would swear that the choke jet was stuck or the choke cable stuck open Quote
seatkid Posted March 12, 2011 Report Posted March 12, 2011 After carefully eliminating the plugs/leads/coilpaks then move on to lambda sensor. An MOT testing station can measure the exhaust and tell if the Lambda sensor is working (slip them a fiver). Its located in the exhaust somewhere near just ahead or on the cat. Can be a pig to remove. Take care to get a compatible replacement, apparently many of the cheap universal sensors don't work in the Galaxy. Quote
Paamy Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Posted March 13, 2011 Good advice - will follow up and feed back on out come - cheers :) Quote
Paamy Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Posted March 27, 2011 Went ahead and changed the Lambda sensor - yep a pig to remove!!!Stripped the thread on the Lambda getting it out and had to buy a thread reaming tool to clear the clogged thread in the exhaust - all in situ - not a nice job!!Discovered a blowing from the exhaust manifold - thought it was the gasket. Bought a new one. Quotedetween Quote
chrispb123456 Posted March 27, 2011 Report Posted March 27, 2011 Idle control valve is located on top of inlet manifold its held on by two bolts and has a mutiplug connector. Quote
Paamy Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Posted March 28, 2011 Thanks :) will try that...and will let you know what happens Quote
Paamy Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 Thanks :) will try that...and will let you know what happens Quote
Paamy Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Okaaay... I have changed the Lambda sensor, coil packs and cleaned idle speed unit on inlet manifold - problems persist. I have checked for cracks and leaks in hoses but cant see any and have now sprayed WD40 over to see if I can seal a hidden crack should there be one. Any ideas??? Edited April 7, 2011 by Paamy Quote
cyborg Posted April 7, 2011 Report Posted April 7, 2011 Okaaay... I have changed the Lambda sensor, coil packs and cleaned idle speed unit on inlet manifold - problems persist. I have checked for cracks and leaks in hoses but cant see any and have now sprayed WD40 over to see if I can seal a hidden crack should there be one. Any ideas??? maybe your secondary air pump isn't pumping . Taken from webb;Secondary Air Injection(AIR)system,checking The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system causes the catalytic converter to heat up more quickly,resulting in earlier operatingreadiness following cold start.Principle Due to overenrichment of the mixture during the cold start phase,there is an increased amount of uncombusted carbon monoxide in the exhaust.Secondary Air Injection (AIR)improves secondary oxidation in the catalytic converter and therefore reduce emissions. Theheat produced by secondary oxidation greatly reduces start-up time for the catalytic converter,therefore improving exhaust quality during the cold start phase significantly. Quote
Paamy Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 Okaaay... I have changed the Lambda sensor, coil packs and cleaned idle speed unit on inlet manifold - problems persist. I have checked for cracks and leaks in hoses but cant see any and have now sprayed WD40 over to see if I can seal a hidden crack should there be one. Any ideas??? maybe your secondary air pump isn't pumping . Taken from webb;Secondary Air Injection(AIR)system,checking The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system causes the catalytic converter to heat up more quickly,resulting in earlier operatingreadiness following cold start.Principle Due to overenrichment of the mixture during the cold start phase,there is an increased amount of uncombusted carbon monoxide in the exhaust.Secondary Air Injection (AIR)improves secondary oxidation in the catalytic converter and therefore reduce emissions. Theheat produced by secondary oxidation greatly reduces start-up time for the catalytic converter,therefore improving exhaust quality during the cold start phase significantly. Quote
Paamy Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 Secondary air pump??Now where would I find that?Can you tell me where it is and is it a repair or replace item??easy for the willing DIY-er??What tests could I do to see if it's that that is causing the problem Quote
cyborg Posted April 7, 2011 Report Posted April 7, 2011 Secondary air pump??Now where would I find that?Can you tell me where it is and is it a repair or replace item??easy for the willing DIY-er??What tests could I do to see if it's that that is causing the problem remove undertray if exists.... this is what your looking for has hose going into top of airbox its formally called aPierburg Secondary Air Pump held on by about 3 screws in between rad and engine . To be honest not sure its your problem but you seem to have ruled lots out. http://www.urotuning.com/shop/images/06A959253E.jpg make sure you have missed a split air hose or intake hose and your "o" rings are in place and lastly make sure the airfilter is in place.. Quote
Paamy Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 Thanks :)Will have a look - a really good look for hose splits and will investigate the pump as suggested.Thanks for help and advice - will post how I get on. Quote
Paamy Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Posted April 18, 2011 Secondary air pump??Now where would I find that?Can you tell me where it is and is it a repair or replace item??easy for the willing DIY-er??What tests could I do to see if it's that that is causing the problem remove undertray if exists.... this is what your looking for has hose going into top of airbox its formally called aPierburg Secondary Air Pump held on by about 3 screws in between rad and engine . To be honest not sure its your problem but you seem to have ruled lots out. http://www.urotuning.com/shop/images/06A959253E.jpg make sure you have missed a split air hose or intake hose and your "o" rings are in place and lastly make sure the airfilter is in place.. Quote
Paamy Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Posted April 18, 2011 The plot thickens!!! but problems continue... Summing up - Slight lumpiness at idle still persistsSometimes seems splittery at low revs when first started in the morning wanting to stallOverrevving/ high revs when pulling up at traffic lights/junctions Overrevving slows to 'normal' (still 'lumpy' though) when pressing clutch whilst waiting)Normal power and acceleration all other times acts as normal - yippee! Have done - Replaced plugs (last summer service - July)New coil packs (x2)New Lambda sensor - and removed battery for 30 mins & touched + and - cables to reset the EMU???Cleaned (decarbonised) Air Flow regulator on top of inlet manifold - then swapped with different one as not sure if it was still stickingChanged the Pierburg Secondary Air Pump and the (reservoir/ vacuum unit in line) feeding the catChecked for vacuum hose splits - found none All to no avail!!!Think I will have to go to Ford to get a diagnostics check done - will that show anything? Tomorrow will put additive to fuel to decarbonise the injection system - will it make a differenceTomorrow will also replace plugs again... Losing the will to try.... Quote
chrispb123456 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Posted April 19, 2011 Has yours got a throttle position sensor, not fitted to all engines, if it has you will find it on the opposite side of the throttle housing where the throttle cable is attached if it has check out the wiring multiplug for dodgy wiring and connectors.This may be the problem with the high revving. Quote
Paamy Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Posted April 19, 2011 Nope - doesn't seem to have onehave put some STP fuel injection fluid in the petrol tank thowill see how it runs over the next couple of days Quote
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