Electrical Problem (poss Immob)

[jasongtr]

im new here so hello to everyone.

 

I have a 'Y' reg 2.3 petrol auto galaxy.

 

i used it this morning twice and all was good. I went to collect the kids from school this afternoon and the car wouldnt start, it unlocked fine on the remote keyfob, key in the ignition and all was good, radio on, climate control on all dash lights on, went to start it and nothing, not even turning over - immob problem i thought. so i did a little investigating under the bonnet and removed the battery cover, and off the positive lead there are 5 large ampage fuses, the second one from the battery 110amp hasnt blown but the wire side of this fuse (as opposed to the battery feed) has burnt and broken the fuse there (so maybe it blew there) theres burnt residue on the cover of that fuse section - and it smells recent (although maybe it would smell if it burnt it a while ago)

 

are these two things linked? what does that 110amp fuse carry power to - is it the alram/immob circuit?

 

i bridged the battery feed side to the wire itself and all the dash lights etc were back on but still no car starting

 

 

please help, and please tell me its something simple and cheap

 

 

many thanks in advance

Edited February 10, 2011 by jasongtr

[gregers]

read up on this,

 

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=17596&st=0&p=137881&hl=engine%20bay%20fuse%20box&fromsearch=1entry137881

 

 

it does seem to be quite common,there are more posts on the subject,but heres a start for you.

 

 

and welcome to the forum.

[jasongtr]

appreciate that and that will definately need changing, but when i bridged the fuse to make the connection the car still didnt start so no doubt the fuse box is an issue but i seems it may of caused another - would it of blown the immob or something?

[gregers]

iirc also check out the fuse panel under the steering wheel,for any blown fuses.

[jasongtr]

ordered a new fuse box/junction panel thing

[chrispb123456]

ordered a new fuse box/junction panel thing

[jasongtr]

i havent got a soldering iron that would do that sort of sized wire to be honest, im going to take the battery out in the morning and charge it up (trickle/maintain) over the weekend ready for when the parts arrive.

 

there no clicking from the starter motor, and the battery was fine - a few months a go a had the car not start, i locked then unlocked and it started which is why i think it might be the immob. When i go to start it with the problem it has theres a sort of whirring noise but very faint hard to describe really you can hear it from in the car, and after trying to start it you can hear it under the bonnet. is it the fuel system priming or something?

 

if it was the immob, how much to sort it out, bear in mind its an auto and stuck outside my house not at the mechanics

[chrispb123456]

i havent got a soldering iron that would do that sort of sized wire to be honest, im going to take the battery out in the morning and charge it up (trickle/maintain) over the weekend ready for when the parts arrive.

 

there no clicking from the starter motor, and the battery was fine - a few months a go a had the car not start, i locked then unlocked and it started which is why i think it might be the immob. When i go to start it with the problem it has theres a sort of whirring noise but very faint hard to describe really you can hear it from in the car, and after trying to start it you can hear it under the bonnet. is it the fuel system priming or something?

 

if it was the immob, how much to sort it out, bear in mind its an auto and stuck outside my house not at the mechanics

May be the coolant run on pump you can hear, remove and check fuse 25 if it's OK make sure there is power at that fuse holder

[chrispb123456]

i havent got a soldering iron that would do that sort of sized wire to be honest, im going to take the battery out in the morning and charge it up (trickle/maintain) over the weekend ready for when the parts arrive.

 

there no clicking from the starter motor, and the battery was fine - a few months a go a had the car not start, i locked then unlocked and it started which is why i think it might be the immob. When i go to start it with the problem it has theres a sort of whirring noise but very faint hard to describe really you can hear it from in the car, and after trying to start it you can hear it under the bonnet. is it the fuel system priming or something?

 

if it was the immob, how much to sort it out, bear in mind its an auto and stuck outside my house not at the mechanics

May be the coolant run on pump you can hear, remove and check fuse 25 if it's OK make sure there is power at that fuse holder

Just to add I actually done my soldering with a blow lamp, but wouldn't advise it unless your really confident and take precautions ie. fire extinguisher or bucket of water handy, and of course battery removed from car.

[jasongtr]

is fuse 25 the coolant pump then? or something else?

[chrispb123456]

is fuse 25 the coolant pump then? or something else?

No

Auto Transmission, Engine immobilisation

[jasongtr]

ok when i sort the fuse box (hopefully monday/tuesday) ill check too see if theres voltage at fuse 25

 

many thnaks, keep checking the thread mate im sure ill be back for more advice - cheers

[jasongtr]

right the new battery junction/fuse box is fitted.

 

there is 12. something volts to fuse no.25.

 

still it wont start, i did have the battery on charge for 24 hours and the battery charger never switched over from charging to maintaining like it should, so i have put another battery on charge (that i know is a good one from a V6 golf - 540 amp start power so should be ok) and ill try again tomorrow, the old battery had 12 across the terminals but i assume it could still show 12v and still not even have enough power to click the soleniod on the starter.

 

When i tried to start it the LED on the drivers door went solid for a few secs with the key in the ignition fully turned then went out - is this normal, as its not something i normally check when i started the car previously.

 

cheers again

[chrispb123456]

right the new battery junction/fuse box is fitted.

 

there is 12. something volts to fuse no.25.

 

still it wont start, i did have the battery on charge for 24 hours and the battery charger never switched over from charging to maintaining like it should, so i have put another battery on charge (that i know is a good one from a V6 golf - 540 amp start power so should be ok) and ill try again tomorrow, the old battery had 12 across the terminals but i assume it could still show 12v and still not even have enough power to click the soleniod on the starter.

 

When i tried to start it the LED on the drivers door went solid for a few secs with the key in the ignition fully turned then went out - is this normal, as its not something i normally check when i started the car previously.

 

cheers again

Maybe starter inhibitor switch have you tried moving through the gears while holding key in start position, that sounds correct with the light.

There's usually a problem when light flashes fast.

Edited February 15, 2011 by chrispb123456

[jasongtr]

tried that just now mate, in all configurations foot on the brake, key in starter position and wiggling through the gears, nothing.

 

i put the lights on and saw the reflection in the car infront of me, wne tto start it and the ligh reflection disappeared - maybe the battery?

 

 

i also popped in to get a card from an auto electricain and talked it though with him, he seems to think the immobiliser would let the car start and then cut out if it was a problem, he wants

[chrispb123456]

Have you looked around the starter wiring & earth straps, try energising the solenoid lead on the starter with a wire straight from the battery or the large + cable on the starter just to ensure starter is not dead.

[jasongtr]

when i swap the batteries over tomorrow (assuming that doesnt work) ill try the soleniod

 

cheers again

[jasongtr]

ok no joy with the new battery, in fact my neighbour used his car to try and jump so i know its def not that now, the soleniod/starter looks a pita to get to so i have called a garage and told them to come and get it, when its fixed/problem diagnosed ill post back on here so maybe it will help others in the future. thanks for all the help so far

[jasongtr]

bit of an update,

 

the auto electricains place says there might be a problem with the transmission switch, they havent got a price on this yet (anybody know how much this is?), also he siad my car wont communicate with their diagnosicts machine, the guy who was working on it has been called away so i wont know anymore until monday/tuesday.

 

anybody have a clue what my bill is likely to be - and whether its worth proceeding or just buy another car?

[jasongtr]

cars fixed nw. pick it up later, it was the transmission switch - total bill