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Posted

hi all , im new to this forum & needed some help, i know this question has been asked a few times but with no exact solution..

 

i have a 05 ford galaxy tdi & recently its heater has been playing up by only blowing cold air ,the water pump has been changed so i thought that this might be caused by an air lock or thermostat but after replacing that & trying to bleed i noticed that the bottom hose on the rad was cold even once engine reaches 90 , its not over heated on me & it stays at 90, there's no oil/water mixed or loss of water...

 

after reading a few posts on here i thought it could be the over run pump but i dont want to change somthing to find out its not that...

Posted

hi all , im new to this forum & needed some help, i know this question has been asked a few times but with no exact solution..

 

i have a 05 ford galaxy tdi & recently its heater has been playing up by only blowing cold air ,the water pump has been changed so i thought that this might be caused by an air lock or thermostat but after replacing that & trying to bleed i noticed that the bottom hose on the rad was cold even once engine reaches 90 , its not over heated on me & it stays at 90, there's no oil/water mixed or loss of water...

 

after reading a few posts on here i thought it could be the over run pump but i dont want to change somthing to find out its not that...

Hi and welcome to the forum

Just a few questions for you

Is your car climatronic or manual heat control?

 

Do the flow and return pipes to the front and rear heaters both get hot? (front pipes go through bulkhead behind engine, rear pipes under car by N/S/R wheel)

Posted

Hi welcome to the world of galaxys and their heater problems. Mines was doing the same and still does , loads of posts on here in relation to this the run on pump is under the bulkhead just above the expansion tank and if you cant hear it running put your hand on it after you switch the engine off and you should feel it running. this wont affect your heater though as far as the other posts say and my pump runs and i have blower problems, most lokely its an air lock but as i have found out not always if you read the posts on here you will find that quite a few of us have the same problem and where some would say it points tho hg failure there are none of the other symptoms, oil in coolant or coolant in the oil and no coolant in the exhaust gases. so good luck and keep us posted on how you get on

 

john

Posted (edited)
hi, its a manual heater & with the pipes going in to the bulk head they do get warm.. the only pipe that felt cooler than the rest was the bottom hose... not checked rear pipes yet.. Edited by hd3sanj
Posted

Something that would help me (as someone unfamiliar with the workings) would be a photo of the engine bay showing:

  • location of run on pump
  • water pipe going to heater
  • water pipe coming from heater

 

I've spent much of the last two days with my head under the bonnet looking at 'stuff' but I just can't work out where some of the pipes are going to/from and what they should be carrying and whether they should be hot or not.

 

Ta,

Higs

Posted

with so many people with the same problem i was thinking it would make life easier but has nobody managed to fix...?

i have recently in the last month spent a grand on my galaxy just servicing inc... clutch/flywheel,bushes/ball joints,heater fans,belts/pump...the list go's on.

i have only had it back a week when it started doing this....

Posted

hi, its a manual heater & with the pipes going in to the bulk head they do get warm.. the only pipe that felt cooler than the rest was the bottom hose... not checked rear pipes yet..

The bottom hose from radiator carries cooled water back to the engine after passing through radiator so will always feel cool even in summer.

Posted

hi, its a manual heater & with the pipes going in to the bulk head they do get warm.. the only pipe that felt cooler than the rest was the bottom hose... not checked rear pipes yet..

The bottom hose from radiator carries cooled water back to the engine after passing through radiator so will always feel cool even in summer.

 

 

thanks for reply , was just wondering is it possilble im not bleeding the system right?

i have had it where the heaters did feel warm & not hot but after topping up with water they were ok..

Posted

Something that would help me (as someone unfamiliar with the workings) would be a photo of the engine bay showing:

  • location of run on pump
  • water pipe going to heater
  • water pipe coming from heater

 

I've spent much of the last two days with my head under the bonnet looking at 'stuff' but I just can't work out where some of the pipes are going to/from and what they should be carrying and whether they should be hot or not.

 

Ta,

Higs

I have posted pics of run on pump location before and there are others, you have to do a search for them, the pump is located behind fuel filter on the bulkhead

Posted

thanks for reply , was just wondering is it possilble im not bleeding the system right?

i have had it where the heaters did feel warm & not hot but after topping up with water they were ok.. (now they are cold all the time)

Posted

thanks for reply , was just wondering is it possilble im not bleeding the system right?

i have had it where the heaters did feel warm & not hot but after topping up with water they were ok.. (now they are cold all the time)

Out of interest, how are you bleeding the system?

I was under the impression it was self-bleeding so haven't tried a manual bleed.

Posted

thanks for reply , was just wondering is it possilble im not bleeding the system right?

i have had it where the heaters did feel warm & not hot but after topping up with water they were ok.. (now they are cold all the time)

Out of interest, how are you bleeding the system?

I was under the impression it was self-bleeding so haven't tried a manual bleed.

 

i thought it was self bleeding but not sure.... do i need to remove any pipes or plugs?

Posted
It is self bleeding just leave the filler cap off till engines up to temp, but you may get air trapped in booster heater and rear compartment heater if run on pump is not working.
Posted

It is self bleeding just leave the filler cap off till engines up to temp, but you may get air trapped in booster heater and rear compartment heater if run on pump is not working.

 

thats exactly how i bled the system but with no change to heat , been looking for posts on run on pump & whats the symptoms & how to check operation..

Posted

Well I'm pretty sure I've located the run on pump.

And I'm pretty sure it's pining for the fjords. There's no noise coming from it and it doesn't feel like it's working either when the engines running or after.

I know others have replaced it themselves but I can barely get my fingers through to touch it so reckon it's a garage job.

Hopefully sorting the pump out will sort the heating out whether it's by bleeding air out of the heater or just by upping the circulation.

Posted

has anyone a pic of the run on pump as i cant find a post regarding location & with the ones i did find they have had the pics removed...

 

i think i know where but not sure...

 

when i turn ignition on i can hear a humming from above the fuel filter but in scuttle panel not in engine bay..

Posted

Well I'm pretty sure I've located the run on pump.

And I'm pretty sure it's pining for the fjords. There's no noise coming from it and it doesn't feel like it's working either when the engines running or after.

I know others have replaced it themselves but I can barely get my fingers through to touch it so reckon it's a garage job.

Hopefully sorting the pump out will sort the heating out whether it's by bleeding air out of the heater or just by upping the circulation.

You need to remove the scuttle tray (3 bolts) to have better access to the pump.

 

Other jobs that need scuttle removing are:

 

Pollen filter

 

Wiper motor assembly

 

Air temp sensor for booster heater

 

Removing leaves and dirt

 

Alarm hooter

Posted

Well I'm pretty sure I've located the run on pump.

And I'm pretty sure it's pining for the fjords. There's no noise coming from it and it doesn't feel like it's working either when the engines running or after.

I know others have replaced it themselves but I can barely get my fingers through to touch it so reckon it's a garage job.

You need to remove the scuttle tray (3 bolts) to have better access to the pump.

Thanks I probably should have been able to work it out myself but I'm a bit hard-of-thinking after a week of manflu.

Posted
i have a run-on pump on order as mine was making no noise , just wanted to know once i replace it will it stop my heaters blowing cold or should i expect to change somthing else, i noticed my temp is not going above 90 & my fans have not worked or do they work when its hotter?
Posted

if i get the galaxy on a vag com would the heater show any faults or are they seporate from ecu?

the air its blowing actually feels colder than outside (front & back) , i dont want to pay for pluging it in just to find nothing shows...

Posted
Changed the run on pump & I do get some heat but it's allot warmer at higher rev's then cools down at lower revs , the rear heater is still blowing cold , anyone know if both pipes should be hot to rear as only 1 is on mine & the other is cold...
Posted

I had the same issue with my 2002 Sharan TDi cos of an air lock in the AUX heater matrix located at the back of the car.

 

First I removed the pipes going into the AUX heater this was done from underneath the car just before the AUX Heater, using a garden hose I flushed out the rear heater pipes removing allot of rusty water, I then reconnected these pipes and went to the engine bay.

 

Removed the two hoses going into the run on pump, stick the garden hose into the hose going down towered the rear AUX heater and let it flush out until clear water runs out.

 

Connect all the hoses up where they should go, lift the front of the car a little book says 50cm but I used (AXLE stand hight) and fill up the cooling system, lover the car and take for a run until it reaches temp, I just ran mine at fast idle for 15min, switch off and let it cool a tad and refill if more coolant is required.

 

Now, provided your run on pump is working correctly and your AUX heater is also working correct, you will have heat within 15 minutes, mine does nay bother...

 

The bottom rad hose will remain cooler as it is returning cooler water to the block, just make sure your cooling fan cuts in every now and then, my temp needle also stays at 90 deg.

 

Hope this helps, if not take a drive up to Scotland.

 

Regards

  • 2 months later...
Posted

thanks tona , i will give it a go on mine & see if it help's..

Im a newbie on this forum, I too am having the fault exactly as you describe, electric pump is running, but cold air ony from the heater. Did this last step sort your probem out? im going to try it tomrrow and see what happens, incidentaly i have just renewed the front heater matrix because the pipes where split, leaking water into the drivers footwell, dash out job but not really all that difficult - just time consuming.

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