Aux Heater Testing For Faults ?

[Ginettamad]

Heater worked ok last winter.

 

VAG-com reveals this nice message now?

 

01413 - Dosing/Metering Pump (V54)

29-00 - Short to Ground

 

 

Joy, I have had several cold trips below 10 degrees only to find I get the same VAG 01413 fault code re the pump. So I've cleaned and checked all the electrical connections but no joy as yet? It does not say flame out so I presume the glow plug is not at fault?

Which fuses should I check as there are a lot under there!

Which Relay controls the pump?

Can it be repaired and if so how?

 

Suggestions I have read are the expensive control module that pulse feeds the solenoid in the dosing pump need replacing?

My hope is that there could be other shut down protection options that stop the pump working but does anyone know this?

I dont want to fork out hundreads of pounds for a new ECU controller if something else has stopped the pump?

 

I plan to remove the heater at some point and give it a service as those on boats who use the same heater suggest regular servicing and cleaning.

Would any other pump and heater work if I found one at a scrap yard?

 

Mine is a 55 plate so I suspect it will be the later 5KW heater and pump sadly with the dodgy control unit I'm told?

Anyone got the Beru Plug part number for the late heater as I've heard of Boaters buying them for around £20 rather than £60???

 

I'd also like to know how I could add a switch to keep the heater switched off for any short damaging runs and protect the heater in the future. Which wires could be bridged on the the Temp sensor safely?

H

Edited October 27, 2010 by Ginettamad

[Ginettamad]

Just a thought but if the mini water pump has packed up would the heater sense that then cut the fuel pump feed?

The heater does not get warm or fire up but the AUX Heater fan does run at a low speed on start up?

I used to regularly here the Water swish when I turned on the ignition but just realised I've not noticed it for a while?

Where is the W Pump on a late model Gal situated?

H

[chrispb123456]

Just a thought but if the mini water pump has packed up would the heater sense that then cut the fuel pump feed?

The heater does not get warm or fire up but the AUX Heater fan does run at a low speed on start up?

I used to regularly here the Water swish when I turned on the ignition but just realised I've not noticed it for a while?

Where is the W Pump on a late model Gal situated?

H

Hi there

The water pump will not stop the heater firing up, what happens is when the pumps not going is the heater gets up to temperature very quickly as there's little to no water circulation through the heater this usually results in the overheat stat shutting the heater down, five succesive overheats will lock out the heater requiring code clearing.

check wiring for breaks on heater multi plug and fuel pump, you could also check voltage at fuel pump (when initiating heater.

Water pump is located on the bulkhead behind fuel filter, requires removal of scuttle plate to access.

[Ginettamad]

Water pump checked and although very quiet it appears to be working on start up. All connectors removed cleaned and put back. Code cleared again.

[Mirez]

Good God man thats a shocking number of questions! :)

 

 

It does not say flame out so I presume the glow plug is not at fault?

-Correct, 01413 is nothing to do with the plug

Which fuses should I check as there are a lot under there!

-None, if you have communications to the heater and its attempting to fire then your done - the pumps not got its own fuse

Which Relay controls the pump?

-None, its a solenoid injection pump which simply requires a pulsed 12V supply to operate

Can it be repaired and if so how?

-29-00 is a shorted code, in other words the heater is trying to supply 12V but its taken direct to ground somewhere. Unplug the dosing pump and see if the code changes to 24-00 Open Circuit

Suggestions I have read are the expensive control module that pulse feeds the solenoid in the dosing pump need replacing?

-Quite possibly, 05>06 car's seem to be effected with dodgy control boards but its the heaters PCB - there isn't one in the pump.

My hope is that there could be other shut down protection options that stop the pump working but does anyone know this?

-Nope, each unexpected shut down reports a code. There are codes for all protection systems - you have a dosing pump shorted fault.

Would any other pump and heater work if I found one at a scrap yard?

-Theoretically yes, 01> pumps and heaters should work. Earlier ones (Mk1) won't, most other manufacturers won't as the aux water pump is controlled by the heater not the car

Mine is a 55 plate so I suspect it will be the later 5KW heater and pump sadly with the dodgy control unit I'm told?

- Sadly correct

Anyone got the Beru Plug part number for the late heater as I've heard of Boaters buying them for around £20 rather than £60???

-You would need to double check but 7M3963319A for the earlier 8V one and 7D0963533A for the later 12V version

Which wires could be bridged on the the Temp sensor safely?

-Either - The temp sensor is just a thermal switch. Install in parallel to make an "ON" switch, install in series to make an "OFF" switch.

Just a thought but if the mini water pump has packed up would the heater sense that then cut the fuel pump feed?

-No. The D5WZ has no control over the water pump, it simply assumes its permanently running - if it was dead you'd get an overheat error

The heater does not get warm or fire up but the AUX Heater fan does run at a low speed on start up?

-Normal, the fan runs to purge the burning chamber with clean air prior to ignition

I used to regularly here the Water swish when I turned on the ignition but just realised I've not noticed it for a while?

-Then it may be dead which won't be helping the situation but certainly not the cause of the error you have. Its more likely to be the main engine's diesel fuel pump priming that system if you were hearing it just on igition on.

Where is the W Pump on a late model Gal situated?

-As chris says, at the back of the bulkhead - passenger side

Edited October 27, 2010 by Mirez

[Ginettamad]

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a go at disconnecting the pump as you say but as I have to borrow a Laptop to use VAG-Com its a pain to check and re-set the codes for me.

Sadly as per the other threads on here with the same message I fear the heater control unit may have gone but not sure if any test will proved that for sure? Maybe a multimeter on the pump connections to see if any pulses are sent?

When a get some time I'll remove and clean the heater too.

Looks like I'll need a U section of pipe to connect the water pipes to by pass the heater when removed.

Anyone got a spare control unit and or Pump to try???

[Ginettamad]

Well I by passed the temp sensor set the heater running and tested the voltage to the pump and absolutely no voltage at the pump so I decided to remove the heater which was a job to try and my a bypass tube to keep the water in the car. I've now lost about a cup full of red antifreeze so anyone know where I can buy more of it and its make?

My heater is a hydronic 11-F D5Z-F.

Now slowly soaking in WD40 and trying to get the silly screws out of the brackets and top covers as all rusted and seized. One so far has snapped off but I suspect others will and few of them have moved yet. I wish people would use grease on threads but they don

[Mirez]

Well I by passed the temp sensor set the heater running and tested the voltage to the pump and absolutely no voltage at the pump so I decided to remove the heater which was a job to try and my a bypass tube to keep the water in the car. I've now lost about a cup full of red antifreeze so anyone know where I can buy more of it and its make?

My heater is a hydronic 11-F D5Z-F.

Now slowly soaking in WD40 and trying to get the silly screws out of the brackets and top covers as all rusted and seized. One so far has snapped off but I suspect others will and few of them have moved yet. I wish people would use grease on threads but they don't from new anymore sadly. Alloy, heat and steel just fuse together?

So if I can finally get the suspect control unit out anyone know how to test it?

I presume they are not repairable??

Harvey

 

 

Its a potted PCB so you'll have to remove all the weatherproof gunge before you can properly test it.

[Ginettamad]

I thought there were tests I could do from the pins in the multi-plug but not 100% Still not got the top screws out yet however?

H

[Ginettamad]

:lol: Below is the 'no help' standard reply that the UK Eberspacher outlet gives to suffering Aux Heater owners trying to fix their problems and run their cars on a budget. I have tried contacting a number of their UK dealers who have similar comments leaving us with little choice but to either buy from the EBay people in Turkey, e-webasto.eu or pay Stealer Prices.

So far it seems the ECU could be around

[ReidarS]

Hi,

 

digging up an old thread here now, but how did this story end? Did you get your heater running again?

[niallsan]

Not sure about the result of this thread but some of the questions asked here are answered in this thread:- My link

 

 

Niall

 

 

 

 

 

Hi,

 

digging up an old thread here now, but how did this story end? Did you get your heater running again?