To Maf Or Not

[DazzasGalaxy]

Hi all,

 

I have looked through the forum looking for some wise advise to my problem, I think I have a conclusion but just wanted a little reasurance before I went out and brought one.

 

Here goes.

 

The inevitable power loss. I followed the forums advise and purchased a vag-com from ebay. Normal power is present most of the time, but ocassionally power is lost and struggle to acelerate, very noticeabe on motorway. There is no judder on acceleration just lack of it. I know it never has been and never will be a rocket but! Anyway, forum advise pointed me towards the MAF, but the vag-com never showed a fault code for it??

 

A test I carried out was that when the power was lost, I pulled over and unplugged the MAF sensor, the result was that having the sensor plugged in or not made no difference. This to me tells me that the sensor is doing nothing and needs replacing. What I also did whilst driving around waiting for the fault to occur, was when the power was normal, unplugged the sensor, then drove the car and it gave the same symptons as when the fault occurred.

 

Is my conclusion conclusive?

 

Next thing is, Ford wanted

[tim-spam]

MAF problem results in a lack of power all the time. I would guess that you have the following fault code:

 

Charge pressure - positive deviation.

 

If this is the case, you have sticking turbo vanes. There are plenty of posts on this.

[DazzasGalaxy]

Hi Tim,

 

Thanks for the advise.

 

No mate, not getting a:

 

Charge pressure - positive deviation, message.

 

This is all I get

 

 

 

17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus

P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

 

18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1: Open or Short to Ground

P1672 - 35-00 - -

 

I guess I need to replace the Coolant temp sensor, but this wouldnt cause loss of power would it?

 

Cheers

 

Dazza

[zorgman]

not your maf temp sensor can cause problem but its norm got code 575 for turbo

[DazzasGalaxy]

"Quote"

 

A test I carried out was that when the power was lost, I pulled over and unplugged the MAF sensor, the result was that having the sensor plugged in or not made no difference. This to me tells me that the sensor is doing nothing and needs replacing. What I also did whilst driving around waiting for the fault to occur, was when the power was normal, unplugged the sensor, then drove the car and it gave the same symptons as when the fault occurred.

 

Is this not conclusive? will I be buying the wrong thing?

 

Nothing on the VAG apart from

 

17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus

P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

 

18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1: Open or Short to Ground

P1672 - 35-00 - -

 

No code 575 for turbo.

Cheers

 

Dazza

[David Armstrong]

Dazza,

 

I had a power loss issue on my petrol 2.3 2001 Galaxy a few years ago. I lost power at higher speeds and the engine management light would come on (but would always go off as soon as I arrived at the local garage!)

 

The problem seemed to be connected to a water leak from the rear wash wipe into under the passenger seat which then gave the control unit for the parking sensors a soaking. Once I repaired the water leak and dried out the parking sensors the power loss issue went away and never returned. I am not sure if the car detected an electric fault which somehow reduced the power to the engine or if it was just a coincidence.

 

David

[TeamGreen]

I'm not sure if a faulty temp sensor will cause the car to go into limp mode but it will result in a lot less power. It may well be that as it's intermittant then the ecu is reducing the power when it gets the faulty signal.

 

First thing I'd do is check the connections to the temp sensor and the coolant fan control, if all seems ok and after clearing the fault codes the problem returns then it might be worth changing the temp sensor.

 

For my AFN TDI it cost

[DazzasGalaxy]

I have been to the VW dealer and a VW specialist today, both tell me that they could not put the diagnostics pc onto my Gal as although most of it is VW, the electronics is ford and the VW pc is not able to read the codes.

 

Is this correct?

 

The annoying thing is Ford want

[zorgman]

itll be a pwm unit you need pity your not in north east i could av cleared codes for you, always a major rule clear codes as you dont know what is new or old, i always clear codes and get them to come back next day so i can recheck them

[DazzasGalaxy]

Yeh I Managed to clear my codes last night, apparently if you try "clear all" it does not work but if you go into the actual component, in my case engine, you can clear codes like that, I suppose you need to clear each component individually.

 

Anyway I am currently clar of codes. When I can get my hands on the bus next (if wife allows me) I shall hook up the vag-com .

 

Cheers

 

Dazza

[DazzasGalaxy]

So put the vag-com back on the gal tonight and got these:

 

3 Faults Found:

17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus

P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17978 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1570 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

17965 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P1557 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

 

I guess my coolant temp sensor needs replacing? Is this the root to my problem?

 

I looked up 17965 on the internet and it appears to be a "charge pressure control"!!! Can this be thrown up as a result from my coolant temp sensor?

 

Cheers

 

Dazza

[Willie Krashitt]

If the temperature sensor is at fault, I would have suspected that the temperature gauge would not read properly. My first galaxy's sensor failed and the gauge didn't read. Added symptom was it would rev up (to about 1800rpm iirc) on every hot start. Don't recall it going into limp home though.

If you do change the sensor, make sure you get the same colour, as this WILL affect the gauge reading. Ford ecat said my car should have had a 'blue' sensor, whereas the one that came out was grey. Result was gauge didn't go over 70

[DazzasGalaxy]

Cheers George

 

I will try to get the sensor this weekend. If I ring up Ford with my car details will they know what colour sensor is needed?

 

I think best thing to do is replace coolant sensor, then clear codes and run the bus to see if it "limps" again, and every now and again put the vag on it...

 

Cheers

 

Dazza

[mark.aa]

when a air mass fail they almost never give of a fault code,

they will give a grossy incorrect reading and as long as the ecu gets a reading they will trust its correct.

only when its disconnected will it force the ecu to revert to a back up map in its memory to run better.

dont use a K&N air filters as eventualy they will leave a oil film on the maf sensor surface and contaminate it .

the air flow draws excess oil from new filter.

funny that on there web sites Q and A section they make a big thing of saying they dont!

fitted a standard paper filter and cleaned the sensor with carb cleaner and mine worked ok.

the temp sensor is a common fault on vw range engines of this era.

check and clean the loom earth points on the front of the engine block as high resistance from corrision can cause sensor errors.

the coolant temp sensors have 4 pin terminals and 2 internal sensors ,

one for the ecu and one for the temp guage.

so it can fail and still read on the dash ok.

if the temp is reading wrong it will not fuel correctly,mine stuck at a coolant temp of 23oC

mine has a yellow band.should be abile to see it on you old one

you can get them from gsf and euro car parts but avoid too cheap ones from ebay as they are very poor copys and dont work properly.epecialy air mass meters.

genuine bosch air mass will be

[DazzasGalaxy]

Hi

 

Just a little question about temp sensor and colours of such a thing, can I check the colour of my sensor without removing it and loosing my coolant?

 

Also how much coolant should I expect to loose when changing the temp sensor?

 

Thanks

 

Dazza