Jinxed Car....

[wackojackouk]

Hi guys

 

Been having multiple problems with the Gal and today got in car and Air Con started flashing ;) for 10 seconds and then returned to normal.

 

Connected to vagcom and got this code

 

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

 

35-00 - -

 

Didn't clear it as I'd like some advice but is this an easy thing to fix?

 

Also got this code today

 

17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immoilizer

 

P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittant

 

Please advise

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

[big_kev]

Hi guys

 

Been having multiple problems with the Gal and today got in car and Air Con started flashing ;) for 10 seconds and then returned to normal.

 

Connected to vagcom and got this code

 

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

 

35-00 - -

 

Didn't clear it as I'd like some advice but is this an easy thing to fix?

 

First thing you should do is clear the codes to see if they come back.

 

Some may be historical and just record old events.

 

 

 

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

 

Low gas pressure.....youre aircon has ( or has had ) a leak.

[wackojackouk]

Hi guys

 

Been having multiple problems with the Gal and today got in car and Air Con started flashing ;) for 10 seconds and then returned to normal.

 

Connected to vagcom and got this code

 

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

 

35-00 - -

 

Didn't clear it as I'd like some advice but is this an easy thing to fix?

 

First thing you should do is clear the codes to see if they come back.

 

Some may be historical and just record old events.

 

 

 

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

 

Low gas pressure.....youre aircon has ( or has had ) a leak.

 

I'm pretty sure it wasn't there the other day when I was checking modules and the air con was fine yesterday as I put it on low.

 

When I bought the car the dealer said the air con was flashing and they would get it fixed and then there were problems with it not flowing correctly from the correct flaps. Eventually it was sorted along with the Aux Heater thing but now 3 months later they have both re-appeared.

 

Should I clear the codes in a minute and see what happens?

 

WJUK

[Mirez]

00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)

 

17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immoilizer

 

Ahh the old 792 error - the amount of A/C gas is too low (or possibly too high if you've recently had it charged), most likely a leaking condensor at the drier cap.

 

17978, could be a number of reasons but its basically not seen the transponder in the key, most likely caused by a blocked signal - have you got lots of other metal things on the keyring?

[Mirez]

You can clear the codes fine, it sounds like its been leaking for a while and the dealers just recharged it to get the panel to stop flashing - take a look under the drier cap and I bet it'll be full of crap.

[wackojackouk]

You can clear the codes fine, it sounds like its been leaking for a while and the dealers just recharged it to get the panel to stop flashing - take a look under the drier cap and I bet it'll be full of crap.

 

Thanks Mirez

 

One thing I just thought of. I heard that Air Con doesn't work under 10 degrees on Lo setting. Today is the 1st day I can remember since buying the car that it has been higher than 10 degrees (it says 10 or 10.5). Do you think this could have anything to do with it?

 

Where's the drier cap btw? - and what sort of crap am I looking for?

 

Is it an easy fix or expensive one?

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

Edited March 1, 2010 by wackojackouk

[Mirez]

You can clear the codes fine, it sounds like its been leaking for a while and the dealers just recharged it to get the panel to stop flashing - take a look under the drier cap and I bet it'll be full of crap.

 

Thanks Mirez

 

One thing I just thought of. I heard that Air Con doesn't work under 10 degrees on Lo setting. Today is the 1st day I can remember since buying the car that it has been higher than 10 degrees (it says 10 or 10.5). Do you think this could have anything to do with it?

 

Where's the drier cap btw? - and what sort of crap am I looking for?

 

Is it an easy fix or expensive one?

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

 

It shouldn't matter but I can't say for certain, the pressure switch won't be effected by temperature but the system running or not will effect the pressure.

 

The drier cap is to the left of the condensor (as looked at from the front of the engine) - if you look in through the ford badged grill, to the upper left, you'll see a black plastic cap and its under there you need to look (you'll need to undo the 4 thorx screws and pull the grill forward slightly to remove the cap). The crud will likely be a goldy/rusty coloured looking stain which may be yellowy/green where the A/C dye has coloured it. Its a reasonably easy fix and not the most expensive in the world but not cheap either - the parts are about

[wackojackouk]

It shouldn't matter but I can't say for certain, the pressure switch won't be effected by temperature but the system running or not will effect the pressure.

 

The drier cap is to the left of the condensor (as looked at from the front of the engine) - if you look in through the ford badged grill, to the upper left, you'll see a black plastic cap and its under there you need to look (you'll need to undo the 4 thorx screws and pull the grill forward slightly to remove the cap). The crud will likely be a goldy/rusty coloured looking stain which may be yellowy/green where the A/C dye has coloured it. Its a reasonably easy fix and not the most expensive in the world but not cheap either - the parts are about

[wackojackouk]

Also just for reference what exactly would need to be changed? (couldn't find the edit button for some reason).

[Mirez]

Also just for reference what exactly would need to be changed? (couldn't find the edit button for some reason).

 

The cheap-o fix is to replace the receiver drier and cap (the bits under the outter cap I mentioned above) - its not a good fix though as the seal area will be damaged so the condensor (the bit the drier sits in (looks like a radiator)) should be replaced at the same time to do the job properly.

[wackojackouk]

Isn't the condensor expensive to replace?

 

I so wish I never bought this car :) Every month now I have had major problems or expensive problems.

[Mirez]

Isn't the condensor expensive to replace?

 

I so wish I never bought this car :) Every month now I have had major problems or expensive problems.

 

Its not that bad, the evaporator is the real expensive bit (dash out) followed by the compressor (part cost) and then the condensor. I've never heard of evaporators failing though, the one on this site was the first I've come across so put that down to a freak fail. Compressors fail due to lack of oil in the system caused by leaks in the drier cap. The cap's fail because of poor servicing - very few dealers have any clue but the VW literature states the drier is a service item with a two year interval (and comes with cap)- I highly doubt your car (or nearly every other on here) will have ever had that changed before, hence the deterioration in the seal and the leak.

Edited March 1, 2010 by Mirez

[wackojackouk]

Thanks Mirez

 

Really appreciate your help with this. Trying to stay positive but other things are getting me down at the moment as well and could just really do without this.

 

I popped back out and turned her over and no flashing lights or anything (temp now 7.5 degrees) so do you think best thing is too keep an eye on her for now (until I can check the cap).

 

Am so tempted to contact the dealer and see what he has to say. If I leave it awhile I have no chance of him sorting it out but it's slightly outside 3 months now so I believe he has no obligation. I was trying to angle parts they fixed/replaced before and the same problem if you get me.

 

The additional warranty I got thrown in is carp (Warranty 2000/Olympic Warranties). Funny thing is they offered me additional warranty for

[Mirez]

Thanks Mirez

 

Really appreciate your help with this. Trying to stay positive but other things are getting me down at the moment as well and could just really do without this.

 

I popped back out and turned her over and no flashing lights or anything (temp now 7.5 degrees) so do you think best thing is too keep an eye on her for now (until I can check the cap).

 

Am so tempted to contact the dealer and see what he has to say. If I leave it awhile I have no chance of him sorting it out but it's slightly outside 3 months now so I believe he has no obligation. I was trying to angle parts they fixed/replaced before and the same problem if you get me.

 

The additional warranty I got thrown in is carp (Warranty 2000/Olympic Warranties). Funny thing is they offered me additional warranty for

[wackojackouk]

Hi Mirez

 

Haven't had chance to look at it just yet but no more flashing since.

 

However have noticed the temp hasn't been on or above 10 degrees since so wonder if that is linked or not.

 

Will keep an eye on it and then hook up vagcom in a few days to see if any codes have come back.

 

Hoping that the fault wasn't cleared before and a/c only comes on at 10 degrees I think so maybe that could be it.

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

[wackojackouk]

Hi Mirez

 

Haven't had chance to look at it just yet but no more flashing since.

 

However have noticed the temp hasn't been on or above 10 degrees since so wonder if that is linked or not.

 

Will keep an eye on it and then hook up vagcom in a few days to see if any codes have come back.

 

Hoping that the fault wasn't cleared before and a/c only comes on at 10 degrees I think so maybe that could be it.

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

 

Hey Mirez

 

A/C fault didn't come back for a week as the temp was under 10 degrees.

 

A week later temp was 12.5 ish and flashing again. Did one more reset and when under 10 degrees doesn't come back but since then it has come back but only over 10 degrees. Sure I read somewhere compressor doesn't kick in unless over 10 degrees.

 

Anyway, I saw on a another forum that Kwik Fit were offering a recharge for

[Mirez]

A waste of

[chrispb123456]

Isn't the condensor expensive to replace?

 

I so wish I never bought this car B) Every month now I have had major problems or expensive problems.

Hi there

As Mirez was saying the condenser/drier assembly is prone to leaks, I had mine changed four years ago and had it serviced/re-gassed last May with no problems.

Initially cost

[Mirez]

I know I've said this before but the receiver drier unit (which sits in the tube on the side of the condensor) is a SERVICE part and has a scheduled replacement of TWO years. When you buy the replacement it comes with its sealing cap. Its this cap which has two foam seals on (one seal on the earlier ones) and its these that absorb moisture over time and rot, causing corrosion of the condensor and allowing the A/C gas to escape.

 

If everyone added this to their routine servicing then the number of A/C faults we see on these forums would, IMO, be drastically reduced.

[wackojackouk]

Hi guys

 

Just a quick update as I hadn't got around to doing anything about it. A mate of mines brother works at a Kwik Fit and said pop it down there and he would take a look and if it wasn't colder :D then no charge.

 

Machine sucked out all the stuff (it was empty.....) and refilled. Said it didn't detect any leaks but wasn't happy with it and said it wasn't getting any colder so no charge.

 

Oh well I thought nothing gained, nothing lost and went home and was pumping up the tyres with my compressor (they were all about 28psi !!!!!) anyway I finished off a tyre and could hear a hissing noise coming from around the drivers side (which I hadn't done yet). I went over and checked the tyre but it was fine (and has been since then) and concluded that it wasn't tyre air BUT gas leaking out from the air con system that had just been refilled.

 

Didn't have time to get under the car or anything but before I take the next step and get an air con specialist to look at it wonder if you could give me some tips - could it simply be a split hose or worse case a hole in the compressor? - I would have thought the machine would have picked up a leak but then again maybe not?

 

Any advice most welcome before I take the next step.

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

[chrispb123456]

Hi guys

 

Just a quick update as I hadn't got around to doing anything about it. A mate of mines brother works at a Kwik Fit and said pop it down there and he would take a look and if it wasn't colder :D then no charge.

 

Machine sucked out all the stuff (it was empty.....) and refilled. Said it didn't detect any leaks but wasn't happy with it and said it wasn't getting any colder so no charge.

 

Oh well I thought nothing gained, nothing lost and went home and was pumping up the tyres with my compressor (they were all about 28psi !!!!!) anyway I finished off a tyre and could hear a hissing noise coming from around the drivers side (which I hadn't done yet). I went over and checked the tyre but it was fine (and has been since then) and concluded that it wasn't tyre air BUT gas leaking out from the air con system that had just been refilled.

 

Didn't have time to get under the car or anything but before I take the next step and get an air con specialist to look at it wonder if you could give me some tips - could it simply be a split hose or worse case a hole in the compressor? - I would have thought the machine would have picked up a leak but then again maybe not?

 

Any advice most welcome before I take the next step.

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

Hi there

The condenser and air drier are favourites for leaks also the pipes to and from compressor to condenser, the specialist's put the fleuresent dye in the system, helps show up any leaks

[wackojackouk]

Hi there

The condenser and air drier are favourites for leaks also the pipes to and from compressor to condenser, the specialist's put the fleuresent dye in the system, helps show up any leaks

Anyone recommend a specialist near Heathrow way?