Mirez Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Posted November 10, 2010 What? I don't see what you are asking me? The normal way a relay is wired are: 30 is a + supply87 is an input87a is an output85 is the coil's ground86 is the coil's supply If you are trying to disable the vehicle blower when the timers working then it would appear to be as simple as removing both sides of the blower cable from the relay and connecting them back together, You could try just removing the 30A fuse from the supply you installed but it looks like that might also be a supply for the system. The red and blue thinner cables from 87 and 87a are also forming a switch which would suggest its either the water pump feed or the supply to the aux heater itself. Quote
George106 Posted November 10, 2010 Report Posted November 10, 2010 What? I don't see what you are asking me? The normal way a relay is wired are: 30 is a + supply87 is an input87a is an output85 is the coil's ground86 is the coil's supply If you are trying to disable the vehicle blower when the timers working then it would appear to be as simple as removing both sides of the blower cable from the relay and connecting them back together, You could try just removing the 30A fuse from the supply you installed but it looks like that might also be a supply for the system. The red and blue thinner cables from 87 and 87a are also forming a switch which would suggest its either the water pump feed or the supply to the aux heater itself. Thanks Mark, I was after disabling blower via switch only for the time I want e.g. first 10-15 minutes off and then just flick switch and start blower to heat interior. What is going to happen if the wire to climate control (pin 20) is switchable? (I won't be able to switch blower off switching thin wire from 86 relay contact, will I?) Wouldn't it also have influence on running the pump or heater itself? I tried to monitor heater function via VCDS when ignition is off and surprisingly you can connect to heater ecu when heater is set on via timer module. And I can confirm, my heater blower problem was caused by socket in ecu and after ecu replacement heater WORKS :) . George Quote
Mirez Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Posted November 10, 2010 (edited) IF I've read how you have it wired up correctly then here: Make sure you use a switch that can handle the current, it'll also disable the blower everytime its turned off (so not just when the timers set) - the trouble you have is that unknown supply from 87a, else you could have switched the input to 87 Edited November 10, 2010 by Mirez Quote
George106 Posted November 10, 2010 Report Posted November 10, 2010 Thanks Mark, I got replay form the seller regarding enabling 10 min delay and it's not so complicated :) (see picture). I also asked them about additional switch function in the kit which is described in word document. I will leave it with 10min delay at the moment and may fit switch later. GeorgeFunction of the additional switch.doc Quote
Mirez Posted November 10, 2010 Author Report Posted November 10, 2010 Sweet! How tempted are you to try position 2-9 though? :) B) Quote
George106 Posted November 10, 2010 Report Posted November 10, 2010 Sweet! How tempted are you to try position 2-9 though? B) B) Would it explode? :) Quote
George106 Posted January 10, 2011 Report Posted January 10, 2011 Hi, today no heater at all. Tried through clock module or when engine running and nothing. Disconnected heater plug and measured if I get +12V on pin 1; 6; 7 and there is not power on pin 7 (engine running) in either situation. It seems to me, power is not fed through control module for independent heating thus no heater when engine running neither. I have contacted ebay seller and would see what could they say about it. George Quote
billywizzo Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 Have you had any luck getting this kit to work.I have been looking into doing the same mod myself but as the car has just got through the mot and everything seems to be working, not sure i should start to fiddle with it.Bill Quote
George106 Posted January 28, 2011 Report Posted January 28, 2011 Have you had any luck getting this kit to work.I have been looking into doing the same mod myself but as the car has just got through the mot and everything seems to be working, not sure i should start to fiddle with it.Bill I have sent control box back to seller (in Germany) and hopefully he would come back to me soon what's wrong as the pin 7 on heater connector wasn't fed and heater stopped working. Be honest it's quite luxury to set heating in the car and jump in warm car when needed. My heater D5WZ is not probably very effective as it takes 30minutes of heating to reach 50 deg. coolant temperature when ambient temperature is around 0 deg. I expected faster heating but still better than sitting first 7 minutes in freezing car before blowers start blowing warmer air (also warm engine starts means less engine wear). Regarding the installation, it's not very complicated just a bit time consuming (took me over 7 hours). I experience multiple clicking from the relay which operates blowers from battery when engine is off and it's probably caused by voltage drop when switching off engine. Otherwise this heating is very handy and I used it every day past two months. If you think about this mod, I would recommend to source this kit from VW/Ford (ask Mirez for more details) as the aftermarket version from Germany controls cabin blower differently (set to 0 or 10 minutes after is heating switched on rather than genuine one which switches heater only when coolant temperature is over 30 deg.). I am about to fitting secondary battery behind passenger seat and fitting 100A charging system which would consist from split charge relay (30A) for trigging bigger relay, heavy duty 100A relay, two heavy duty 50A fuses, 16mm2 wire connected directly to car battery. If you need any more info, use forum or send me PM. George Quote
billywizzo Posted January 28, 2011 Report Posted January 28, 2011 Cheers for the info.Was looking at either the programmable kit, or just fitting a manual switch so I can turn it on and off when I want.I was thinking of leaving the temp switch in the circuit and just put the manual switch across the temp switch wires so if it is not cold enough for the temp switch to turn on I could turn it on with a switch in the car. ie in the summer turn it on a couple of times just to keep it working as I think leaving it not working for half the year can not be good for it when it does get needed next winter.Also if the temp switch is still in use it will still fire up automatically as needed. Bill Quote
George106 Posted January 28, 2011 Report Posted January 28, 2011 I have cut ambient switch off and fitted manual switch on dashboard so I can switch heater on/off whenever I want (engine running). If you want to fit timer unit, it would be safer to user proper kit rather than cheap setup because you have to switch quite large currents (cabin heater). If you are after just heating coolant, ask member SOTAL who was considering this option. George Quote
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