Aux Heater Timer Module

[George106]

I will have a look tomorrow as I reserved whole day for this play.

 

George

[George106]

Finally after approx. 7hours of dismantling, cutting, soldering I managed to install "independent heating" successfully. Just to let anyone buying kit from ebay (Germany), as they are made for LHD cars (battery and aux heater is on the same side)you would have to extend cable to the battery compartment (I did not fit secondary battery) and also to aux heater. Otherwise most of the wiring was plug&play or crimp on however I have soldered all connection instead.

 

To Mirez, I have run first 30min successfully and water temperature was around 68deg. (13deg outside). When I tried another session, blower refused to start and at VCDS I got error 1309 Blower - open circuit even though I have changed blower motor week ago. I decided to lower whole unit down and run the heater without blower top cover and system started normally. After that I tried another 3 attempts (I fitted blower cover back,then pushed heater in the bracket etc.)which were sometimes OK and twice I just heard blower and fuel pump with dripping diesel afterwards. My two last attempts were unsuccessful as the battery voltage dropped under 10.9V and heater refused to ignite. I even haven't been able to start the car and had to use jump start pack.

 

To sum up, I guess heater wouldn't start properly when battery voltage drops under certain level. I will leave gal to cool down and try to start heater for the last time today.

 

George

[George106]

Just remembered couple of thing.... the relay (part number 7M3 9591 43 A) for run-on-pump had different number on the top (437 instead 430) but was the right one. Also wire colours on the instruction sheet were sometimes different eg. red & black for 430 relay were red & blue, also two wires I have connected to on heater were black & black/red instead of black & black/blue. And lastly when you cut wire from fuse 22 for blower connection, check if you cut the right one as there are two of them just next to each other (both used for AC).

 

George

[chrispb123456]

Hi Mark and George

 

Mine also came from Ebay 3 years ago genuine Eberspächer kit cost £345 iirc was intended for mercedes sprinter but told it will fit any D5WZ so in for a penny, when I received it sure enough fitting instructions for mercedes (in German).

Emailed Eberspächer to see if I can get in English and saying I want to fit in a galaxy, they were concerned and said that's the wrong kit but would send me the instructions for the galaxy.

On comparing the two I see the galaxy has 2 changeover relays not present in the kit although these were easily available from local auto shop, on fitting the loom starting under the car I can now see the looms not long enough to reach the battery, the new fuse box, the 2 relays, the run on pump, climate control, mini programmer, heater blower, and single alarm wire on CJB all of which had to be lengthened.

No provision for fitting second battery although when I was stuck in Dunkirk 2 years ago for 24hrs the unit was run for 3.5 hrs in total over that time and to my surprise still started the engine, so if batteries in good condition you shouldn't have a problem.

 

Instructions showed programmer fitted next to headlight leveling switch but I put mine up in the roof lining where the factory fitted one goes.

 

All in all a good job done just wish I had the remote control version :unsure:

 

regards Chris

 

ps Mark if you want the Eberspächer wiring diagram for interest I could send you a copy!

Edited October 31, 2010 by chrispb123456

[George106]

Hi guys, I hope this is my last post in this thread ^_^ As I have posted above, I still had the problem with blower part and got either 01414 Blower open circuit or 01409 repeated flame out which was the consequence of blower not working. I have replaced motor part of the blower and what was messing up all the time was the black cover which sits from the top. The rotating fan was sticking on some places and heater ECU diagnosed this situation as open circuit (wasn't spinning when needed). I did sand off inner round part of the cover a bit and after the test it's finally working.

 

If anyone needs any help regarding dismantling, changing glow plugs, gauze etc. in Southampton area, send me PM and I'll do my best to help you.

 

Thanks for reading

George

[chrispb123456]

Hi guys, I hope this is my last post in this thread :lol: As I have posted above, I still had the problem with blower part and got either 01414 Blower open circuit or 01409 repeated flame out which was the consequence of blower not working. I have replaced motor part of the blower and what was messing up all the time was the black cover which sits from the top. The rotating fan was sticking on some places and heater ECU diagnosed this situation as open circuit (wasn't spinning when needed). I did sand off inner round part of the cover a bit and after the test it's finally working.

 

If anyone needs any help regarding dismantling, changing glow plugs, gauze etc. in Southampton area, send me PM and I'll do my best to help you.

 

Thanks for reading

George

Hi George good news then ^_^ have heard of sticking fans before after a long period of inactivity (summer period)

Edited November 1, 2010 by chrispb123456

[George106]

Just another thing, whenever I switch heating through timer module off I can hear clicking in relay area (probably relay responsible for running cc fan). Also it happens when cc fan is on when engine running and I switch ignition off. I does not happen when I switch ignition on or press heating button for heating.

 

Should I worry about it?

 

George

[George106]

Would that bl**dy heater ever stop messing up with me? Yesterday morning was everything working sweet but in the evening blower refused to spin again :lol: . This morning decided open it up again and there was nothing wrong with the cover as the blower didn't bother to spin without it. Unscrewed ECU and had a bit play with blower motor wires around the plug and it started/stopped spinning. So I guess there must be some connection glitch. Motor and it's wires including plug connectors are brand new, so there has to be some plug issue.

 

To Mirez, would you be able to spent some time with my heater if I pop to you when convenient?

Sorry to bothering this thread with this problem, but it's related some way, isn't it?

 

George

[Mirez]

Certainly, my only concern would be when as my weekends are busy at the moment and the evenings are dark but I'm sure we could work a time out :lol:

 

If the motor and plug ane new then it suggests the fault is on the other side of that connector (which is the main ECU board if I've understood your description) - you could have anything from a controller issue to a dry joint. Dry joint's being the more likely but a quite a pain because the ECU is potted to make it waterproof. Do you have a soldering iron? You could heat each pin in turn on the connector - depending on the irons power then hold it there long enough to reflow the solder on that pin which will fix a joint issue.

 

I wouldn't be worried about single clicking noises, thats just a relay either energising or deactivating - if its lots of clicking then be more concerned.

Edited November 3, 2010 by Mirez

[George106]

Certainly, my only concern would be when as my weekends are busy at the moment and the evenings are dark but I'm sure we could work a time out :lol:

 

If the motor and plug ane new then it suggests the fault is on the other side of that connector (which is the main ECU board if I've understood your description) - you could have anything from a controller issue to a dry joint. Dry joint's being the more likely but a quite a pain because the ECU is potted to make it waterproof. Do you have a soldering iron? You could heat each pin in turn on the connector - depending on the irons power then hold it there long enough to reflow the solder on that pin which will fix a joint issue.

 

I wouldn't be worried about single clicking noises, thats just a relay either energising or deactivating - if its lots of clicking then be more concerned.

 

To Mark, I am quite flexible and can come down during week if needed. Regarding the plug, there are new just two wires from the motor, not whole plug. I'll try to heat contacts up with the iron today/tomorrow (basic iron 40W).

 

Thanks

George

[George106]

Hi everyone,

 

regarding the intermittent blower fault nothing has changed, even after heating contacts in the ecu plug. Sometimes it work flawlessly however most of the time it fails to spin blower and log 01414 open circuit error.

 

I am looking for new ecu which hopefully will sort problem out. I believe I need look for ecu for D5WZ heater only, are there any other parameters I should check as well?

 

Thank

George

[George106]

I have managed to buy new heater ECU on ebay and hopefully this would sort my problem with the blower out. At the moment, blower spins at the beginning but stops before glow plugs is switched on and doesn't start again.

 

Regarding independent heating, how could I switch climate control unit off and heat just the water in the system. Would be enough to switch them off by disconnecting the wire from pin 20 at red plug of the climate module?

 

George

[chrispb123456]

I have managed to buy new heater ECU on ebay and hopefully this would sort my problem with the blower out. At the moment, blower spins at the beginning but stops before glow plugs is switched on and doesn't start again.

 

Regarding independent heating, how could I switch climate control unit off and heat just the water in the system. Would be enough to switch them off by disconnecting the wire from pin 20 at red plug of the climate module?

 

George

Hi George

I couldn't understand why you would want to disconnect the climate module, is this not the main advantage to heat the vehicle interior? or are you thinking of an option to just heat the water , ie no blower fan to save on battery usage.

[George106]

That's right, I am about to leave blower off for at least first 10 minutes as the water is cold anyway and it would preserve battery significantly. I have already one switch on the dashboard for temperature sensor and another switch would not make it looking worse.

 

George

[chrispb123456]

That's right, I am about to leave blower off for at least first 10 minutes as the water is cold anyway and it would preserve battery significantly. I have already one switch on the dashboard for temperature sensor and another switch would not make it looking worse.

 

George

Hi George

 

I agree it is a good idea to stop the car blower fan while the system is warming up as it does consume alot of power even on lower speeds, only problem you may get is the climate control module may think there's a fault and set the display flashing the next time you start the car normally, perhaps Mark could help with what connections to switch.

 

Chris.

[sotal]

Hi George from what I have read on the Czech forum you gave me a link to, yes disconnecting pin 20 would stop the climate control from operating and would just heat the water, this is the way I plan to do it to to save battery power.

 

The coolant will heat up to temp quicker without the climate control on, and will use less power - then when you start the engine the fans will start and quickly heat the car up as you will have instant heat.

[Mirez]

Must be one of the disadvantages of the ebay kit, my OEM kit only turns the blower on once the water temp hits a certain temperature - not exactly sure what temp this is but its normally around 15 minutes after the initial start up - during the -10*c period last winter it was just over 20 minutes before it came on.

[George106]

Must be one of the disadvantages of the ebay kit, my OEM kit only turns the blower on once the water temp hits a certain temperature - not exactly sure what temp this is but its normally around 15 minutes after the initial start up - during the -10*c period last winter it was just over 20 minutes before it came on.

 

I may forget to install it properly :) as on another instructions I got from different ebay seller of the identical kit they mentioned there should be something done about blue plug of climate control unit (I have read on another forum something about pin 18). Mark, did you connect/disconnect anything at this connector? It may be the problem. In original instructions from my seller there is following:

- Install the cable with labelling Climatro to the climatronic. Take off the red connector from the climatronic. Disassemble the connector. Plug in the blue cable into pin 20. Reassemble the red connector. (picture 18+19+20+21)

- Install the cable with labelling Climatro to the climatronic. Take off the blue and red connector.

 

George

[George106]

Just checked TIS and they state " The blower motor is switched on when the coolant temperature is above 30deg ". I have been looking at connector explanation in TIS for climate control modul but no luck.

 

George

[chrispb123456]

Must be one of the disadvantages of the ebay kit, my OEM kit only turns the blower on once the water temp hits a certain temperature - not exactly sure what temp this is but its normally around 15 minutes after the initial start up - during the -10*c period last winter it was just over 20 minutes before it came on.

 

I may forget to install it properly :) as on another instructions I got from different ebay seller of the identical kit they mentioned there should be something done about blue plug of climate control unit (I have read on another forum something about pin 18). Mark, did you connect/disconnect anything at this connector? It may be the problem. In original instructions from my seller there is following:

- Install the cable with labelling Climatro to the climatronic. Take off the red connector from the climatronic. Disassemble the connector. Plug in the blue cable into pin 20. Reassemble the red connector. (picture 18+19+20+21)

- Install the cable with labelling Climatro to the climatronic. Take off the blue and red connector.

 

George

Hi George

I don't want to confuse the issue you have and as I think your kit was different from mine, but regarding pin 18 on the blue connector, on mine the original wire connected to pin 18 is cut off and taped back then a new wire from pin 18 goes to my changeover relay for the heater blower and is joined with the new wire going to the heater blower.

The wire going to the empty pin 20 on the red plug also goes to the fan relay and is joined with the wire to the alarm and ebersp

[George106]

Update, I have read again ebay listening where I did buy my kit and found out that this kit turns blower on straight away unless I asked them to program ECU to swith on after 10 minutes..... se here transleted from German. When they asked me about my car, I actually didn't understand this part of their listening (was in German)and because of this my kit wasn't programmed with this delay.

 

George

[Mirez]

Bummer - to answer your question yes I did connector wiring into the blue connector. Be wary of comparing info from either me or chris on this though as mine is a OEM VAG part and I believe Chris's in OEM Mercedes so the connections will probably be different anyway.

 

I presume you have a control unit somewhere? Could you send it back for programming?

[George106]

The problem is, it is hard wired so I would have to either cut all wires (and send it to Germany) or leave it as it is. On different forum they mentioned connection between the relay for blower and pin 18 on blue plug. They said, if they don't make this connection, then the blower would blow at full speed, which is not my case. However according to seller listening, they program control unit to enable this 10min delay otherwise it's on from the start as default. They didn't ask about this option despite of their listening.

 

Would you think fitting switch for the wire which goes to pin20 on red plug would disable whole blowing part?

 

I sent message to seller and would see what would they recommend.

 

George

[George106]

Ooops again, I have just dismantled lower dash cover and checked how is the control unit wired and yes is connected through plug so could be sent back to seller if necessary. Also I took some pictures of the relay responsible for switching blower and additional fuse (5A) which protect something but don't know what.

 

Mark, whole kit looks very similar to your if I compare pictures from your post and what I have and it may be software matter rather than hardware. What still puzzles me is the additional wire in blue plug.

 

George

[George106]

I have been looking at contacts on relay and there are 5 contacts:

 

30 - is connected to red/white cable (blower side) which originally went from fuse 22 to blower

87a - is connected to red/white cable (fuse side) which originally went from fuse 22 to blower

87 - new wire directly from the battery (fitted fuse 30A)

85 - control wire - ground?

86 - control wire - +12V from timer module?

 

Currently there are also present couple of thin wires:

87 - red wire - probably feeds whole system +12V (timer module etc.)

87a - blue wire - probably feeds pin 20 on red plug of climate control unit

 

As I have mentioned before on the other forum they fitted another wire from relay (contact 30) to blue plug pin 18 c/c unit (they cut existing wire and connected new from the relay, the rest of the wire was isolated and left disconnected.

 

When I was looking at wiring diagrams, this wire comes from fuse 22 which may not be fed when ignition is off?

 

I have found some scheme which may be helpful to someone here.

 

And another post here.

 

George

Edited November 8, 2010 by George106