Aux Heater Timer Module

[George106]

Hi, I got installation instructions from one seller on ebay (www.der-standheizer.de) in German. I used babel translator for translation however this German-English text is not very clear. Is there anyone with good knowledge of German?

 

George

Connection_diagram_for_Standheizung_Sharan_II.pdf

Montageanleitung_Sharan_85_kW_66kW__xxxxx_1.pdf

Edited January 20, 2010 by George106

[George106]

Hi I received instructions from another seller which are more detailed.... and in better English.....

side_1.pdf

Side_2.pdf

Seite_01.pdf

Seite_02.pdf

Seite_03.pdf

[seatkid]

Possibly the reason you never saw this option offered in the UK is the law regarding leaving a running vehicle unattended

 

 

Check with your insurance company before fitting this mod-

Edited January 20, 2010 by seatkid

[Mirez]

Possibly the reason you never saw this option offered in the UK is the law regarding leaving a running vehicle unattended

 

 

Check with your insurance company before fitting this mod - I doubt they want to insure it.

 

 

Good job its not the main engine then - there is no legal problem with leaving a heater running!

[mk2vr6]

Possibly the reason you never saw this option offered in the UK is the law regarding leaving a running vehicle unattended

 

 

Check with your insurance company before fitting this mod-

 

but it was offered on the Galaxy/Sharan and still is on some VW's

[Mirez]

Hi I received instructions from another seller which are more detailed.... and in better English.....

 

I would go with that seller then as those are good instructions for their kit.

 

Seite02, Bild8 - thats the back of relay's 430 base (the run-on pump), thats a good photo as it shows how tight that wiring is! If you look at picture 6 (Bild6), imagine the relay panel tilted forward another 90 degrees and you need to get in behind there to make that connection!

 

I would also be a little unhappy using crimp connections for the heater blower - thats a large current cable so connections need to be perfect.

[George106]

I would go with that seller then as those are good instructions for their kit.

 

Seite02, Bild8 - thats the back of relay's 430 base (the run-on pump), thats a good photo as it shows how tight that wiring is! If you look at picture 6 (Bild6), imagine the relay panel tilted forward another 90 degrees and you need to get in behind there to make that connection!

 

I would also be a little unhappy using crimp connections for the heater blower - thats a large current cable so connections need to be perfect.

 

 

Just wondering what is this kit for....

 

I will probably solder all connections if space allows :)

I agree I would go for cable from seller with higher seller rating and better instructions.

Edited January 21, 2010 by George106

[Mirez]

It would appear to be the same kit for the early Mk1's with the 3Kw heater and not the 5Kw one fitted from 98>. IIRC the 3Kw version didn't come with a run-on pump which is what that thing is - albeit a cheap looking plastic pump!

[Munter]

Hi I received instructions from another seller which are more detailed.... and in better English.....

 

Hi George, Could I ask which seller this is please because this mod is something I would love to do once I get my heater working!

Edited February 6, 2010 by Munter

[George106]

Hi George, Could I ask which seller this is please because this mod is something I would love to do once I get my heater working!

 

Hi Munter, it's this seller.

 

George

[George106]

Hi guys, winter is coming again and aux heater timer upgrade is becoming more needed. However currently my aux heater doesn't work (last winter I had famous 01414 error Blower fan outside of specification IIRC) and after summer heater was dead and after scanning I get error stated Blower fan = open circuit. I tried to source new blower part however as this part is over 100quid I would consider other options as well.

 

I came across this websitewhere you can source whole unit quite reasonably priced. I am not sure if D5WS version is compatible with my car (galaxy 2002)as I have D5WZ version atm.

 

Would be D5WS more suitable for timer conversion or shall I just fix my current heater to make my life easier.

 

PS: I have not tested motor yet and my idea was to replace just the motor in the blower unit a the rest seems to me fine. There is similar blower part available on ebay which would be good source of motor for fraction of the price of the whole blower unit.

 

Thanks for any input

 

George

[Mirez]

The "S" is the standalone version designed for retrofitting to vehicles without heaters from the factory. Its physically the same size and connection but the S is designed to control the run on pump itself and to meter the fuel differently. You'd need to replace the run-on pump with a "clocked" version and then rewire it back to the heater else you'll get pump errors and it'll lock out just like flame errors :)

[wackojackouk]

Hi George

 

Take a look at my post here - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21375

 

Is this the same error you got?

 

My one says

 

01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6)

 

36-00 - Open Circuit

 

If so any idea where you can get the fan motor? -

[George106]

Hi George

 

Take a look at my post here - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21375

 

Is this the same error you got?

 

My one says

 

01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6)

 

36-00 - Open Circuit

 

If so any idea where you can get the fan motor? - £200 for the whole unit doesn't sound like fun :)

 

Cheers

 

WJUK

 

Yes, I have the same error code, last winter when I actually used heater for the first time it always logged 01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6) 16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications and it lasted whole winter. I was changing glow plug, gauze and before all this happen there was spring and heater wasn't used at all. Now I get open circuit code which shows dead blower IMHO.

 

I was looking at this part which should be hopefully the same if you change the top cover for the old one. (Mirez could you check the part number and compatibility.)

 

Also when I rang Ebespacher dealer they wanted around £140 incl. VAT IIRC and VW over £170 for the same bit. I actually got new unit from the ebay but returning it as there are not any thread cut (4 holes for the top cover and two holes for securing ECU part)just plain holes. It should be relisted soon of you are interested.

 

I would have to check what's wrong with the motor as in general looks absolutely fine (clean without rust etc. and free wheeling)....

 

George

Edited October 21, 2010 by George106

[Mirez]

 

I was looking at this part which should be hopefully the same if you change the top cover for the old one. (Mirez could you check the part number and compatibility.)

 

The part number they give "20 1819 99 16 00" isn't listed to fit any of the heaters so I'm not quite sure whats going on there "25 1864 99 15 00" is the number for the D3WZ and D5WZ, "25 1922 99 16 00" for the D5Ws. I can't advise on compatibility though as its a different number so somethings changed, it could indeed just be the cover, could be something more.

[George106]

Thanks Mirez,

 

I would try fix my aux heater instead. Regarding the independent heating, would you have somewhere better instructions than I have already available? Also my interior sensors are already disconnected so I guess I don't need to disable them.

[Mirez]

Only the ones in my head :) - Technically you wouldn't need to disable them but you should wire it up anyway - its all easy enough to do and then if you ever fix the sensors you won't need to do further wiring.

[George106]

At the end I bought cheaper blower part for similar blower and "robbed" the motor from there. Has the same size and is 8.6V instead of 8.4V. Parted blower/burner part, changed gaskets, fitted back in the gal and started engine. After approx. 5 minutes of idling heater started to smoke/work. After another 20 minutes water temperature rised to 85deg heater started to shut down (max.temperature in burner was 310deg) . However next time when car was stationary heater failed to start properly and got famous 01409 flame out error and also blower fan outside of specification error.

 

Now heater finished second successful run without any error codes (when driving).

 

It may be some air intake problem when is gal stationary? How should I check if the door sill is not blocked anyway (I actually have large piece of plastic over the floor behind driver/passenger seats with my working stuff which may block anything) ?

 

George

[George106]

 

Seite02, Bild8 - thats the back of relay's 430 base (the run-on pump), thats a good photo as it shows how tight that wiring is! If you look at picture 6 (Bild6), imagine the relay panel tilted forward another 90 degrees and you need to get in behind there to make that connection!

 

I would also be a little unhappy using crimp connections for the heater blower - thats a large current cable so connections need to be perfect.

 

 

Hi Mirez, I managed to fit clock module and remove plastic underneath the steering wheel but not sure how to "hang out" CJB to get to 430 relay? Do I have to unplug all three bunch of wires to get more slack or is there anything else what should be done. Also how can I get the fuse holder off the bottom of the CJB? And lastly according to instruction should I cut green/grey wire from light switch (pin 17) and connect wire from clock module or solder it on the wire instead?

 

Thanks for your time

George

Edited October 29, 2010 by George106

[George106]

Hoops, managed to unhook whole bit and tilt everything out however instead of 430 relay I have only 437relay. Is in the same position but number differs. Is this the right one?

 

George

Edited October 29, 2010 by George106

[chrispb123456]

Hoops, managed to unhook whole bit and tilt everything out however instead of 430 relay I have only 437relay. Is in the same position but number differs. Is this the right one?

 

George

Hi George

Just wondering what make kit you are using as I didn't have to take out the CJB layer etc when I did mine, just one wire on mine to the green plug for deactivating interior monitoring when fans blowing. All other wiring was behind climate control, heater blower, run on pump, and under car.

regards Chris

[George106]

Hoops, managed to unhook whole bit and tilt everything out however instead of 430 relay I have only 437relay. Is in the same position but number differs. Is this the right one?

 

George

Hi George

Just wondering what make kit you are using as I didn't have to take out the CJB layer etc when I did mine, just one wire on mine to the green plug for deactivating interior monitoring when fans blowing. All other wiring was behind climate control, heater blower, run on pump, and under car.

regards Chris

 

 

Hi Chris,

 

I bought this one and according to instruction I need to connect two wires to the relay 430 which runs run-on-pump. Also two wires at fuse S22 for blower, one wire at climatronic, one wire at green plug for central locking, four wires in the sill for the aux heater, one wire from light switch etc.

 

George

[Mirez]

Interesting, my dealer-fit kit required removal of the CJB as well and only one wire connected at the back of the climatronic module - where did you get your kit chris?

[George106]

To Mirez,

 

do you think 437 relay is actually 430 just wrongly marked? I can check how many wires/what colour this 437 has.... Also this relay is on the same place as 430 should be....

 

Would you have any wiring diagrams which would help?

 

Thanks

George

[Mirez]

Hi George, I wouldn't be that worried as the big numbers are just quick reference numbers for VW - ideally quote the long part number off it and I'll tell you what its for, but if it were me I'd simply remove it and cycle the ignition - if the pump is still working when the ignition's back off then its not the right one! If its not then its highly likely to be the one you want :unsure: