empty750 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Posted April 24, 2010 Hi Auxilary water pump or run on pump as most people call it is there to aid water circulation through the rear compartment, and booster heater on TDI models, it then runs on for about 5 to 10 mins after engine is switched off to stop hot spots.There are no water valves in the heater system, temp is controlled by air doors in the heater assemblies.Aircon whether working or not will not affect engine cooling only thing I would say is to check radiator cooling fans are still working if aircon is not.Water will not circulate properly in any vehicle if air is being introduced in the system!! I think you'll find head gaskets and cracked or porous heads are quite common on any diesel engine.Haynes only cover MK 1 Galaxy.Booster heater common problems are either bad smoking or not working at all, remedy is most often glow plug fault, lock out caused by 5 simultaneous overheats or flame failures which will need clearing with vagcom, the overheat is usually caused by the run on pump not working. OK thanks for the reply.I've downloaded the Ford TIS so i'll see if that shines any light on the problem (if i work out how to open the file)So if the aux pump isn't working it won't effect the circulation of the coolant round the engine? Same with the air con?That rules them out anyway.It's pretty confusing.Ref the radiator fans, at this stage i'm not worried about them. I'll sort the water circ problem then chech them. The water isn't circulating at the moment so doesn't matter if the rad fans are working or not.No stat fitted and pump ok (so a mechanich who checked it said). Thanks for the advice. Great forum. Quote
empty750 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Posted April 24, 2010 Hi Auxilary water pump or run on pump as most people call it is there to aid water circulation through the rear compartment, and booster heater on TDI models, it then runs on for about 5 to 10 mins after engine is switched off to stop hot spots.There are no water valves in the heater system, temp is controlled by air doors in the heater assemblies.Aircon whether working or not will not affect engine cooling only thing I would say is to check radiator cooling fans are still working if aircon is not.Water will not circulate properly in any vehicle if air is being introduced in the system!! I think you'll find head gaskets and cracked or porous heads are quite common on any diesel engine.Haynes only cover MK 1 Galaxy.Booster heater common problems are either bad smoking or not working at all, remedy is most often glow plug fault, lock out caused by 5 simultaneous overheats or flame failures which will need clearing with vagcom, the overheat is usually caused by the run on pump not working. OK thanks for the reply.I've downloaded the Ford TIS so i'll see if that shines any light on the problem (if i work out how to open the file)So if the aux pump isn't working it won't effect the circulation of the coolant round the engine? Same with the air con?That rules them out anyway.It's pretty confusing.Ref the radiator fans, at this stage i'm not worried about them. I'll sort the water circ problem then chech them. The water isn't circulating at the moment so doesn't matter if the rad fans are working or not.No stat fitted and pump ok (so a mechanich who checked it said). Thanks for the advice. Great forum.I think my next move is get the head pressure tested then go from there..... Quote
chrispb123456 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Posted April 24, 2010 I have said this so many times before and don't get an answer to this procedure!!!!!TRY THIS FROM COLD.MAKE SURE WATER LEVEL IS ON MAXIMUM LEAVE CAP OFF RUN ENGINE ON TICK OVER OBSERVING WATER BOTTLE, IF YOU SEE AIR BUBBLES IN THE WATER OR THE WATER STARTS SPEWING OVER THEN YOU HAVE 95% HEAD GASKET/CRACKED HEAD/POROUS HEAD OR WORST CASE CRACKED/POROUS BLOCK. THIS CHECKING PROCEDURE WILL COVER A VARIETY OF ENGINES NOT JUST GALAXY'S Quote
empty750 Posted April 24, 2010 Report Posted April 24, 2010 I have said this so many times before and don't get an answer to this procedure!!!!!TRY THIS FROM COLD.MAKE SURE WATER LEVEL IS ON MAXIMUM LEAVE CAP OFF RUN ENGINE ON TICK OVER OBSERVING WATER BOTTLE, IF YOU SEE AIR BUBBLES IN THE WATER OR THE WATER STARTS SPEWING OVER THEN YOU HAVE 95% HEAD GASKET/CRACKED HEAD/POROUS HEAD OR WORST CASE CRACKED/POROUS BLOCK. THIS CHECKING PROCEDURE WILL COVER A VARIETY OF ENGINES NOT JUST GALAXY'SThanks for the tip Chrispb123456.I have downloaded the Ford TIS and in the section for overheating it simply says; Possible Source(s): Quote
Paul S Posted April 24, 2010 Report Posted April 24, 2010 New observations, adventures or whatever you want to call it, with mysterious Galaxy. Lately I have been driving my car for short drives only, 10min or so, there was no need to go anywhere. Today I took it for a longer drive. To begin with the temp shot up like crazy, I was sure I would have to stop in the middle of motorway. I took it up to 70 for a few minutes, came to a roundabout, suddenly, it was like something just happened in the engine and in 2-3 seconds the temp and everything went straight to normal. I presume the stat had opened. The next 10-15 min I was on the motorway and everything was fine. Turned off to back roads and oil temp started to rise. In 10min it went up to 160C. (By the way, what is the normal oil temp?) On the way back home (after about 3hours) I started the engine and momentarily the oil temp display showed 259 then it settled around 160. After few minutes of driving it didn Quote
Paul S Posted April 27, 2010 Report Posted April 27, 2010 Hi chrispb123456, I tried to do what you said, started the engine cold without the cap to look for bubbles. Well there were plenty of them. It looked like foam coming out of the little return line. I couldn Quote
chrispb123456 Posted April 27, 2010 Report Posted April 27, 2010 Hi Paul While I dont disbelieve what you have been told by your garage there is no problem with the TDI cooling system as far as bleeding is concerned I drained mine when I removed booster heater several times and each time on refilling with coolant I then starting the engine after a few minutes you see a few bubbles then suddenly you notice the bottle has emptied,top up again a few more bubbles then thats it put cap back on job done.After you have drove car and thermostat has opened usually next time you check the level its gone down an inch or so, top that up and thats it I never have to top up after that. Iv'e never had cause to use a pressure tester on the cooling system only to check the cap.I will only say that if there's bubbles rising up to the bottle then the engine is pumping air and by what you have already said if that was my car the head would already be off but thats my opinion, I wont post on your thread anymore but keep the site updated when you do sort it. ;) Quote
empty750 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Hi Paul While I dont disbelieve what you have been told by your garage there is no problem with the TDI cooling system as far as bleeding is concerned I drained mine when I removed booster heater several times and each time on refilling with coolant I then starting the engine after a few minutes you see a few bubbles then suddenly you notice the bottle has emptied,top up again a few more bubbles then thats it put cap back on job done.After you have drove car and thermostat has opened usually next time you check the level its gone down an inch or so, top that up and thats it I never have to top up after that. Iv'e never had cause to use a pressure tester on the cooling system only to check the cap.I will only say that if there's bubbles rising up to the bottle then the engine is pumping air and by what you have already said if that was my car the head would already be off but thats my opinion, I wont post on your thread anymore but keep the site updated when you do sort it. ;)Well, it's in the garage.The tame mechanic called to say the cooling system was contaminated.Someone has put something in the system that he thinks has gunked everything up. A white gunk is blocking the cooling system.He's going to remove the rad and flush it and flush the system.Sounds possible i guess but why would someone do this? Normally to try to cure a rad leak or head gasket leak maybe.I hope it's not just my wallet being flushed!! Quote
empty750 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Hi Paul While I dont disbelieve what you have been told by your garage there is no problem with the TDI cooling system as far as bleeding is concerned I drained mine when I removed booster heater several times and each time on refilling with coolant I then starting the engine after a few minutes you see a few bubbles then suddenly you notice the bottle has emptied,top up again a few more bubbles then thats it put cap back on job done.After you have drove car and thermostat has opened usually next time you check the level its gone down an inch or so, top that up and thats it I never have to top up after that. Iv'e never had cause to use a pressure tester on the cooling system only to check the cap.I will only say that if there's bubbles rising up to the bottle then the engine is pumping air and by what you have already said if that was my car the head would already be off but thats my opinion, I wont post on your thread anymore but keep the site updated when you do sort it. ;)Well, it's in the garage.The tame mechanic called to say the cooling system was contaminated.Someone has put something in the system that he thinks has gunked everything up. A white gunk is blocking the cooling system.He's going to remove the rad and flush it and flush the system.Sounds possible i guess but why would someone do this? Normally to try to cure a rad leak or head gasket leak maybe.I hope it's not just my wallet being flushed!!Ok, seems sorted!The mechanic said the coolant was contaminated and now it's been flushed all works ok.The temp comes up to 90 then back a touch and hovers, all good.Heaters now work as they should too.The only thing that needs sorting is the expansion bottle cap. It's leaking a little so i need to get that sorted asap.Frauds want Quote
Paul S Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Hi guys, I did what the mechanic tolled me to do. Took the cap off, run the engine till hot, fans came on a couple of times (though the resistors controlling the fans stayed cold), I reved it up to 4000-5000 a few times, kept it at 3500 for a while, unfortunately the rear heater pipes always stayed cold and I couldn Quote
empty750 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Posted April 28, 2010 Hi guys, I did what the mechanic tolled me to do. Took the cap off, run the engine till hot, fans came on a couple of times (though the resistors controlling the fans stayed cold), I reved it up to 4000-5000 a few times, kept it at 3500 for a while, unfortunately the rear heater pipes always stayed cold and I couldn Quote
Jaddi01 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Posted June 18, 2010 Well, got mine sorted too. All the above symptoms. Turned out to be the head gasket. Once replaced all is well. Now on to the other problems.... :rolleyes: Quote
racingparts.ro Posted July 21, 2010 Report Posted July 21, 2010 hello everybody, i'm mac from romania i have a galaxy mk2 with 300k km on it and the problem is that i find the bottle drained empty then i open the cap and the water comes UP a lot and burst outthe water pump has 40tkm and the radiator + fluid brand new thinking could be the gasket as i over cooked it a few times in austria when the water pump broke ..the water went to 130 Quote
dchris01 Posted August 3, 2010 Report Posted August 3, 2010 Having same problem with 2000 1.9 tdi ford galaxy started with temp light coming on and hand went up to over half way going uphill checked the water bottle and very low on water topped it up when we stopped an engine cooled. Happened the next day with light coming on had to top up with water again and temp hand went up to half way and down again. Two days after that I flushed the cooling system with cooling flush and retoped up with water but everyday before I start the car the water in the expansing bottle is below min when I go to take cap off the water goes up to above max. There is no water in the old or oil in the water bottle. Such anoying fault any help is greatfullAtfer this about a couple of weeks later the water in expanision bottle tuned to oil.It seemed to get thicker and thicker had oil cooler changed and system flushed out a coulpe of times still traces of oil. Water bottle now keeps emptying its self of water after travelling 20 to 40 miles when stopped and engine is warm. A couple of seconds before this happens the water is bubbling hot so still no futher forward with the problem. Quote
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