Galaxy 1.9 Tdi Overheating/boiling Up

[groover1973]

a fortnight after fitting new rad the blinking problem has returned again. the mechanics said they have tested the head, all fine, tested cooling system, holding fine. its had new rad,exp cap, water pump so they are at a bit of a loss.with best intentions they just cant pinpoint the problem.

seems im left scratching me head again :0(

they say poss try cutting supply to rear heater to see if the problem lies in the exchange from front to rear.

the saga continues lol

Edited October 28, 2009 by groover1973

[tim-spam]

A simple test: when your car displays its boiling symptoms, try switching the heaters (front and rear) to maximum. If the air blowing out is hot and stays hot, this would imply that you have reasonable coolant circulation. If it blows cold, you don't, which would point to the water pump. However, you could also have a blockage somewhere, as you have said that you have run on water for a while - one of the most vital tasks of the coolant is to inhibit corrosion.

[Scorpiorefugee]

We had one of these on the site a while ago which just wouldn't go away. It turned out that it had been chipped for extra performance and when that was reversed the problem went away. It does look like you have inherited the problem which caused the previous owner to sell it. You should have his/her address in the reg. details so it might be worth a letter.

 

On the same theme, if it has been chipped it could invalidate your insurance.

Edited October 28, 2009 by Scorpiorefugee

[jkspoff]

Mine was remapped if that is the one you are referring to, however I had the remap removed and the original factory mapping restored due to the overheating issues. I was would strongly recommend anyone else considering remapping for extra performance to stay well clear. I know someone with an Audi R8 diesel that had it remapped and blew the turbo within 3 weeks resulting in warranty being void and a bill or over

[groover1973]

garage found a small leak on the rear flow/return pipes which only shows under high pressure when hot. the joints ( metal to rubber hose ) have been cleand up and siliconed. so far no repeat of previous problem.

[Saif Rehman]

garage found a small leak on the rear flow/return pipes which only shows under high pressure when hot. the joints ( metal to rubber hose ) have been cleand up and siliconed. so far no repeat of previous problem.

 

The repair will not last, get the offending pipe replaced.

[groover1973]

just to let you all know,had no trouble for weeks now and as if by magic it did it again. sensor come on and expansion bottle empty again aargghhhhhhh

new symptom just noticed. when you go uphill the heater blows cold then on the downhill and flat the temp comes up again. all the time the gauge reads 90???

Edited January 3, 2010 by groover1973

[nandj]

just to let you all know,had no trouble for weeks now and as if by magic it did it again. sensor come on and expansion bottle empty again aargghhhhhhh

new symptom just noticed. when you go uphill the heater blows cold then on the downhill and flat the temp comes up again. all the time the gauge reads 90???

 

 

How many miles has your vehicle done?

 

I have been having the exact same probs and have replaced everything bar the fricken ashtray.

 

At the mo, I have diagnosed that my AUX water pump is not working. Do a search an aux pump or "run on pump". They seems to die at 90k.

 

I have anew one on order and hope to install this weekend.

[gregers]

nandj,did you not think about trying the fix yourself then?

[nandj]

nandj,did you not think about trying the fix yourself then?

 

 

I did, but then I sourced a new one at a good price.

[seatkid]

Has anyone else noticed all those members who advocated and/or had their cars "chipped", "remapped" or "tuned" seemed to have disappeared?......IIRC a few openly stated they sold their cars and went to a different brand following unsolvable cooling problems.

 

I guess a lot of those "chipped" cars are finding their way back here. :(

[gregers]

so glad ive followed the chipping threads over the years :(

[dmc2373]

just to let you all know,had no trouble for weeks now and as if by magic it did it again. sensor come on and expansion bottle empty again aargghhhhhhh

new symptom just noticed. when you go uphill the heater blows cold then on the downhill and flat the temp comes up again. all the time the gauge reads 90???

 

 

any joy fixing it yet?

 

is fan cutting in when hot?

[dchris01]

Having same problem with 2000 1.9 tdi ford galaxy started with temp light coming on and hand went up to over half way going uphill checked the water bottle and very low on water topped it up when we stopped an engine cooled. Happened the next day with light coming on had to top up with water again and temp hand went up to half way and down again. Two days after that I flushed the cooling system with cooling flush and retoped up with water but everyday before I start the car the water in the expansing bottle is below min when I go to take cap off the water goes up to above max. There is no water in the old or oil in the water bottle. Such anoying fault any help is greatfull

[chrispb123456]

Having same problem with 2000 1.9 tdi ford galaxy started with temp light coming on and hand went up to over half way going uphill checked the water bottle and very low on water topped it up when we stopped an engine cooled. Happened the next day with light coming on had to top up with water again and temp hand went up to half way and down again. Two days after that I flushed the cooling system with cooling flush and retoped up with water but everyday before I start the car the water in the expansing bottle is below min when I go to take cap off the water goes up to above max. There is no water in the old or oil in the water bottle. Such anoying fault any help is greatfull

Hi there start the engine from cold with radiator cap removed top up to the max level watch for air bubbles being expelled, if there are and continueous also does the coolant start to rise and spew over, most likely cause is head gasket or worst case craked cylinder head.

 

You dont necessarily get water in oil or oil in water you may be losing water into the exhaust.

 

This is assuming no other leaks in system, dont forget the pipes under car going to booster heater and rear compartment heater. :rolleyes:

[empty750]

just to let you all know,had no trouble for weeks now and as if by magic it did it again. sensor come on and expansion bottle empty again aargghhhhhhh

new symptom just noticed. when you go uphill the heater blows cold then on the downhill and flat the temp comes up again. all the time the gauge reads 90???

 

I'm having the same problem.

No heat in the car etc etc.

Water pump is ok, there isn't a thermostat so that's not it.

All the signs suggest no coolant circulation and i'm sure it's not the head.

Water system has retained pressure for 2 week lay up so no leaks.

Bought a vag-com and it showed up a fault code 01189 - Front air distribution flap motor (V145) 009 - Open or short to ground.

I read somewhere about a climate control fault blocking the circulation of water round the engine??

I have yet to find out but will comment more when i know.

[chrispb123456]

just to let you all know,had no trouble for weeks now and as if by magic it did it again. sensor come on and expansion bottle empty again aargghhhhhhh

new symptom just noticed. when you go uphill the heater blows cold then on the downhill and flat the temp comes up again. all the time the gauge reads 90???

 

I'm having the same problem.

No heat in the car etc etc.

Water pump is ok, there isn't a thermostat so that's not it.

All the signs suggest no coolant circulation and i'm sure it's not the head.

Water system has retained pressure for 2 week lay up so no leaks.

Bought a vag-com and it showed up a fault code 01189 - Front air distribution flap motor (V145) 009 - Open or short to ground.

I read somewhere about a climate control fault blocking the circulation of water round the engine??

I have yet to find out but will comment more when i know.

Hi and welcome to the site Empty750. You say there isnt a thermostat? why has it been removed, you will get little or no circulation through the heaters if stats been taken out.

[Paul S]

Have the same problem; Ford Galaxy 1.9 TD 1999; boils 10min after start (pushes liquid from the expansion tank). Rad is cold, engine is hot. Previous owner put lots of powder into the system. Changed the stat (the old one was still good), changed the rad (was completely blocked), new pump fitted (damaged the old one when lost water), changed the cap, no head gasket symptoms. Car runs brilliant except for the prob. There are three pipes connected to the area near the pump and the stat (steel one, hose and return from the rad). The return from the rad stays cold but other two are boiling hot. Recently tried to blow into the top of the rad; liquid comes out of the top of the engine hence the stat is not stuck, it just never gets chance to get hot therefore stays closed. The returning flow seems to bypass the stat. Water is circulating back to the exp tank; pump ok.

 

I read somewhere that oil cooler may cause the problem. It might well be blocked as the old rad was but the way it

Edited April 22, 2010 by Paul S

[chrispb123456]

Have the same problem; Ford Galaxy 1.9 TD 1999; boils 10min after start (pushes liquid from the expansion tank). Rad is cold, engine is hot. Previous owner put lots of powder into the system. Changed the stat (the old one was still good), changed the rad (was completely blocked), new pump fitted (damaged the old one when lost water), changed the cap, no head gasket symptoms. Car runs brilliant except for the prob. There are three pipes connected to the area near the pump and the stat (steel one, hose and return from the rad). The return from the rad stays cold but other two are boiling hot. Recently tried to blow into the top of the rad; liquid comes out of the top of the engine hence the stat is not stuck, it just never gets chance to get hot therefore stays closed. The returning flow seems to bypass the stat. Water is circulating back to the exp tank; pump ok.

 

I read somewhere that oil cooler may cause the problem. It might well be blocked as the old rad was but the way it

[Mirez]

Its also worth noting that the temperature guage is programmed in such a way that it will point at 90*c for all temperatures in the range of around 83*c > 97*c so its not accurate!

[Paul S]

Thanks for your reply. The problem has been there for a while but it always showed itself in different ways. Before I changed the rad or so I could go forever at 60-70mph with no probs, after 80 the temp started to rise.

 

I see what you are saying about the head gasket and I thought of that too. However the problem seems to disappear when eventually the rad gets hot and the thermostat opens (it would take a while though as there is no good circulation).

 

What would the symptoms be if the oil cooler is blocked? Has anybody had to deal with it? The rad, as I said earlier, was blocked completely, I couldn

[chrispb123456]

Thanks for your reply. The problem has been there for a while but it always showed itself in different ways. Before I changed the rad or so I could go forever at 60-70mph with no probs, after 80 the temp started to rise.

 

I see what you are saying about the head gasket and I thought of that too. However the problem seems to disappear when eventually the rad gets hot and the thermostat opens (it would take a while though as there is no good circulation).

 

What would the symptoms be if the oil cooler is blocked? Has anybody had to deal with it? The rad, as I said earlier, was blocked completely, I couldn

[empty750]

Thanks for your reply. The problem has been there for a while but it always showed itself in different ways. Before I changed the rad or so I could go forever at 60-70mph with no probs, after 80 the temp started to rise.

 

I see what you are saying about the head gasket and I thought of that too. However the problem seems to disappear when eventually the rad gets hot and the thermostat opens (it would take a while though as there is no good circulation).

 

What would the symptoms be if the oil cooler is blocked? Has anybody had to deal with it? The rad, as I said earlier, was blocked completely, I couldn

[chrispb123456]

Hi Auxilary water pump or run on pump as most people call it is there to aid water circulation through the rear compartment, and booster heater on TDI models, it then runs on for about 5 to 10 mins after engine is switched off to stop hot spots.

There are no water valves in the heater system, temp is controlled by air doors in the heater assemblies.

Aircon whether working or not will not affect engine cooling only thing I would say is to check radiator cooling fans are still working if aircon is not.

Water will not circulate properly in any vehicle if air is being introduced in the system!! I think you'll find head gaskets and cracked or porous heads are quite common on any diesel engine.

Haynes only cover MK 1 Galaxy.

Booster heater common problems are either bad smoking or not working at all, remedy is most often glow plug fault, lock out caused by 5 simultaneous overheats or flame failures which will need clearing with vagcom, the overheat is usually caused by the run on pump not working.

Edited April 24, 2010 by chrispb123456

[Paul S]

Hi all, I will try to find the aux pump. Anyway if it is only there to assist in rear heating circulation it shouldn