Booster Heating Dosing Pump

[jeremyr62]

I have an 05 TDi Galaxy with an inoperative booster heater. I have read the very long thread and most of the many other posts about this hardy perennial. My problem seems a little bit different.

 

The fault code reported by VCDS is

 

01413 - Dosing/Metering Pump (V54)

29-00 - Short to Ground

 

To help finding the fault, I have substituted the temperature sensor on the near side wiper arm with a 10A fuse so the car thinks it's always less then 10degC. When I start the car (with DTCs cleared), the booster heater fan starts and the exhaust gets very slightly warm ( I assume the heat from the glow plug is doing this) but it then shuts off.

 

Having read all the stuff on here I assumed it must be the glow plug but seeing as the DTC didn't mention flame outs I checked out the dosing pump. The two wires to this seemed fine with no corrosion but when I used VCDS to check it, it was deathly silent. It isn't pumping fuel which explains why the booster heater isn't working. I checked out the voltage the pump was being supplied with and it varied from 0 to 3 volts when the booster heater was trying to start. At no point did I see 12 volts which is the rating on the pump. So I then supplied the pump with 12 volts from a wire direct to the battery (and it made a single pulse as I connected the wire). The booster heater didn't start with the dosing pump receiving a continuous 12 volts. However with the help of a friend who touched the wire on and off the battery (to get multiple pulses) the booster heater did start and got very hot like normal.

 

So my question is, is my dosing pump faulty, or is it the ECU in the booster heater that isn't supplying a pulsed feed to the dosing pump? I don't mind buying a new booster heater if it will fix the problem but I'm not 100% sure if the dosing pump needs a pulsed feed or not.

[Bigjeeze]

This will need a better brain than mine - but it sounds like a relay to me - I am not sure if there is one for the booster pump but that would certainly be worth a look.

[jeremyr62]

The pump is supplied through a relay (relay K272) but I don't think it would be involved in supplying a pulsed feed to the dosing pump. I have dicovered in another thread that the pump does need a pulsed feed to operate. I can't believe the wires are broken to the pump. I just don't know whether to replace the dosing pump or the whole booster pump.

[jeremyr62]

Answering my own post here but I think the fault is more likely to be the control unit in the booster heater. I found this website though google and the translation mentions the control unit being faulty. http://www.sgaf.de/viewtopic.php?t=55606.

 

I also found another Czech site that said the same thing. Also there is a bloke based in Poland (ebay name webastopl) selling the DZ5-F heater and he seems to have a huge pallet of the things. Looks like it's a common failing of this model heater.

[bofus]

I also found another Czech site that said the same thing. Also there is a bloke based in Poland (ebay name webastopl) selling the DZ5-F heater and he seems to have a huge pallet of the things. Looks like it's a common failing of this model heater.

 

I have used this guy to get a booster heater sorted out, top guy, good info and quick delivery.

 

Got +ve feedback from me.

 

Gav

[jeremyr62]

For future reference the control unit of my pump (model d5z-f made by Ebersp

[Ginettamad]

Heater worked ok last winter.

Joy, I have had several cold trips below 10 degres only to find I get the same VAG 01413 fault code re the pump. So I've cleaned and checked all the electrical connections but no joy as yet? It does not say flame out so I presume the glow plug is not at fault? Which fuses should I check as there are alot under there!

What do you mean by the control unit is faulty?

Can it be repaired and if so how?

 

Anyone got one of those old fashioned but great radiator blinds that can be raised and lowered from in the car???????????

Harvey

[Ginettamad]

Looks like my D5Z-F control is bug-ered too! Is there a replacement upgraded better one to use or am I better just buying a S/H heater for

[chrispb123456]

Hi again

I think you have exhausted your options now as a new control module will set you back as much for a new heater, so the secondhand option with a year warrenty is looking the way to go ^_^

 

You could also try (dieselheaters4u) on ebay, send him an email of what you want he will let you know if he can get it and how much.

[Ginettamad]

Will see if the alternative part number listed for the D5W-F will fit the D5Z-F can be sourced from a UK Ebby expert I Have found?

VW :Nr: 7M3963271E Cost :280

[chrispb123456]

Hi H

Heaterpartsdirect is another source on Ebay if you havn't found them already.

[jeremyr62]

Just to ressurect a zombie thread. I was the OP of this thread and since fitting the nearly new second hand booster heater it's worked fine. I left the fuse in place of the temp sensor so it has worked all year round. Now I have a problem with the run on pump which has failed so the booster heater works for a while and then stops due to (I assume) overheating. These cars are a home mechanics dream come true!

[xavier]

the run on pump is straightforward to repair, you can get the carbon brushes cheap enough, I would say getting the proper hose pliers is a worthwhile investment though!

[jeremyr62]

Not sure it is the run on pump now. When I turn the car on with the aricon  turned to off I can just hear a faint hum inside the cabin. Sounds like a fan. It doesn't really sound like a pump and when I feel the run-on pump near the scuttle it does feel deadly silent, no vibration and no sound in the engine bay. When I turn off the ignition the pump/fan sound just spools down, which I suppose makes it more likely to be some obscure cooling fan located in the cabin somewhere

 

First question. How loud is a properly functioning run on pump? Can you feel it running?

 

I have the VCDS/VAG-COM thingy and after updating it (last used in 2009) I managed to connect to the controller of the booster heater (actually called the auxillary heater (18)) . This had 5 fault codes all the same

 

65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-00

 

The thing is it does actually fire and start and I can watch the temps rise using VCDS but after a minute or two the whole thing goes offline and I can't connect to the control module. Eventually it will reconnect and the fault codes have come back.

 

Second question is has anyone had that fault on their booster heater and what caused and what fixed it?

 

Anyway I have ordered a new run-on pump but I doubt this is going to fix it. I suspect the run-on pump has been bust for a while and this has cooked the controller.

 

Last time I sourced a nearly new DZ5-F off Ebay but they don't seem to show up these days.

 

Third question. Anyone have a source for DZ5-Fs or a (more reliable) alternative?

Edited October 16, 2013 by jeremyr62

[xavier]

what year's your car, and what's your mileage?

 

you'd feel the pump vibrating if it was running, though you may need to start the engine to get yours to work. Mine runs for 3 mins after the engine is switched off, and you can hear it clearly if you're looking in the engine bay. you can also feel it running. some newer cars don't have the 3 min delay though hence asking for year. The brushes need replaced after 80K or so.

[jeremyr62]

It is a 2005 TDI 130bhp. I tried with engine off and running and I couldn't feel a thing. Car has 90k miles so it probably is bust.

 

I messed with Vcds software on the booster heater and verified the blower and dosing pump still work but as soon as the test finishes, the boooster heater stops communicating with the Vcds software.

Taking out and replacing fuse 12 renables communication with VCDS.

[SilverBeast]

You will feel the "run on" pump running as soon as you switch the ignition on ( you don't need to start the engine) and it will stay on till you switch it off. On mine it doesn't run on after this which appears to be normal operation for 130's.

[jeremyr62]

OK, thanks for the replies. It's obviously as dead as a dodo. I have the new one coming so I'll fit that and report back.

 

I am hoping this is the root cause of my booster heater stopping but I suspect that is bust now too.

 

However I did find a video on Youtube from some guy with the same problem as I describe in my original post (dosing pump error - faulty control module) and he stripped out the electonic board, cleaned it up and it started working again. I still have my OE booster heater so might give that a go too. The car that keeps on giving.

[xavier]

there was a garage selling heaters on ebay recently, new ones, for between 100 and 150. To get the heater working you'd need a new pump anyway. check the new pump before you install it.

[jeremyr62]

Pump was seized solid. New one fitted and it works fine. Now to see if booster heater works....

[jeremyr62]

Run on pump fixed but the booster heater is still faulty. Runs for a few minutes and then packs in. Those spurious fault codes and the fact it would stop communicating with the VCDS software made me think it was bust. Oh well such is life.

[chrispb123456]

The D5Z-F is prone to control unit failure, you can buy the controller separately but is still two thirds the price of a new complete heater.

[jeremyr62]

I might get another heater (that makes it my third) but this time I'm going to put some insulation between the control module and the heater body. It's a really stupid design to put an encapsulated electronics board right on top of a diesel burner.There's a relatively large air space under the control module which I'll fill with some mineral fibre or equivalent, and I'll make a gasket out out some machinable ceramic to sit between the module and the heater body.You would kind of hope that there might have been a modification to the heater at the Eberspacher factory but it appears not. You can get them on Ebay atm for Euro389+shipping.  :o