How To.....

[Guest SA Intruder]

A sad inevitability that can/will afflict all models from 1995 to date is the joint between the front and rear washer pipe leaking badly.

It is an absolute disgrace that this still happens....the damage potential is huge.

The cure is fairly simple. But requires a certain level of dexterity...

The only tools you need are a med Phillips screwdriver, a small flat blade screwdriver and a couple of small flat nose pliers to effect the rejoint of the pipe.

And a means of making the joint less susceptible to coming apart again!

I used Epoxy, and then covered the joint with heatshrink sleeving.

In my case, the pipe had completely seperated from the coupling.

The first photo shows the general view of the trim removed, the second shows the joint detail.

To make the repair: remove the two screws (one beneath a removable cover) - note the top one is longer - that hold the forward part of the trim panel on under the glovebox.

Pull the weather seal away from the base of the door opening and about 8 inches up the A and B pillars. Start in the middle of the bottom run.

Then pull the trim panel toward the interior of the vehicle to release the panel clips. The clips are friction clips, not pop clips they don't break like those on the door panels. Be careful, the same clips secure the loom. Once away you can access the joint.

Replacement is the reverse. The weather seal is fun to replace!

[Guest SA Intruder]

Close up of joint

Note that I ran the washer bottle to empty the day before doing the repair to make the joint as dry as possible.

[Guest ianock]

[quote]It is an absolute disgrace that this still happens[/quote]

As in poor design or what?

[Guest SA Intruder]

Yep, crap design. Crap Kit.

[Guest SA Intruder]

Yep - except they no not who I am!

The dealer wanted the car for a whole day....and they only reconnect the pipe!

It took me about half an hour.

I used 3M DP100NS (non-sag) Epoxy which set in 10 mins with some local heat from the heatshrink gun.

The heatshrink was also adhesive lined.

The whole pipe set up is poor - it is semi rigid pipe, JUST the right length.

And the same pipe goes through the tailgate, which means it gets crushed when the tailgate is opened.

Hella supply the whole wiper/washer system.

[Guest ianock]

I've come across this problem alot but normally in the winter time,I can only assume the pipe is frozen & the customer keeps on operating the rear washer with the resulting pressure forcing this joint apart? Come across it once in the summer but the customer said he had recently removed the bulkhead panel,I assumed he caught the pipe & it became disconnected? a couple of rubber ducks wouldnt of gone amiss the amount of water there was there

[Guest SA Intruder]

I dare say the problem is more prevalent in winter because the plastic goes more rigid and less grippy, and the washer is used more.

This let go at random, no Ice.

There are a number of posts about flooded passenger footwells...due to this and due to the pollen filter housing problem and its TSB fix.

[Dave-G]

I used cyano (superglue) to bond mine. It's an "air exclusion adhesive" (thats why they never fill a bottle or tube . .to leave an air pocket)

When the coupler is pushed into the tube, the "knuckle" will exclude sufficient air for it to commence it's hardening process,which also produces heat - to partially weld the plastic.

I also wrapped wire around the joint in a figure of eight configuration,and then wrapped the finished repair in vinyl tape to prevent metal noise interference to fm radio if it touches other metal.(learned from R/C helicopter avionics)

[gazza007]

Been having loads of condensation recently and rear washer performace not as good. Hey presto damp patch in footwell. Followed your instructions SA. Pipe had come slightly apart. Hopefully no more problems. I still think the air-con is Sh****d as demisting taking ages. Will wait till it gets warmer though before I vent my fury on SEAT.

Are you still doing the Pollen & oil pics SA. Good stuff.

[Ivor_E_Tower]

Air con for demisting at this time of year isn't so good because it doesn't work due to the low ambient temperatures! It seems that the VW system cuts out below about 5 deg C, and it's a long reach forward to the screen with a demisting pad. The heated front screen also takes a few minutes to work (for those of us who have this luxury - which really seems to be an essential on an MPV).

[Guest benglx]

please help,my rear washer wipe leak seems to be coming from a lot earlier than mentioned..just past the glove box and down onto the trim/carpet,are there several weakspots/joins in the pipe ,and if so how do i get in there????????????

[Jeff115]

How did you dry the foam underlay after your leak?

Did the biz., thanks, SA, used Super-Glue (per DAVE-G), 2-inch square of carpet tape around the joint and then a couple of small cable connectors to secure. Says to myself 'that's grand - carpet is not wet' then lifted the foam underlay to discover a soggy, smelly mess

Have tried cotton towels (not hers best!) to some success but obviously need to air the underlay properly. Now you probably going to say ' lift the carpet etc.' I should have know...

Appreciate it, J.

[gazza007]

I just used old towels under the carpet mat and put heat to floor whenever out & as much ventelation via window as poss.

[Guest Turbo]

Why couldn`t Ford etc just have put a length of rubber washer hose through from the front to back instead of that botch-up? I now have sleepless nights wondering if mine is still ok.........

[Guest coldcall]

Note that the water in the footwell problem has two possible causes. Leaking rear washer fluid (well covered on this site) and a blocked scuttle drain covered here and elsewhere. Diagnosis is simple. If the footwell floods after heavy rain then you have the scuttle drain problem. If it floods in dry weather then you have the washer fluid problem.

This scuttle drain problem was relatively easy to solve on my 1996 Galaxy so read this before trying the other posts, which are less complete. The bulkhead (under the windscreen wiper mechanism at the base of the windsreeen) fills up with leaves and other crap. There is a drain hole at the back corner of it about 1.5 inches by 2 inches underneath the pollen filter but you cannot get your hand into that part of the bulkhead, so there is no need to remove the drip tray or the pollen filter or any other parts from inside the bulkhead. The trick is to take the inner plastic wheel arch cover (on the inside of the front passenger side wheelarch (or nearside front for the mechnically minded)). This is held on by six or seven star shaped screws and is very easy to get off. Start undoing the screws from the back - forwards because this plastic inner wing arch is flexible and you'll probably only need to undo 4 screws to get access. Note that some screws are not easy to see so feel inside the wheelarch for them. Pull the inner plastic wheel arch cover away (should come away easily unless you've missed a screw) until you have enough space to get your hand up inside the wheel arch.

On the inner wing of the car (the structural part of the car that would still be there if you took the visible wing off), you'll find there is a plastic drain cover with a rubber flap (which it supposed to act as a one way valve). If this drain cover feels blocked then pull it off. Now it is off, you'll be able to clear the hole properly because you'll be able to insert two fingers into the bulkhead and remove any crap that has blocked the drain hole from the outside in.

After you've cleaned the joints (with your mother in law's toothbrush), use some epoxy resin like "Araldite" to glue the plastic drain hole cover back on. Then screw the wheel arch cover back on and Bob's your father's brother.

Replace your mother in law's toothbrush after a quick rinse.

[Guest nimrod]

[quote name='coldcall' date='Jul 25 2004, 06:56:49']
so read this before trying the other posts, which are less complete.................. [/quote]
Wow! impressive post on the topic of scuttle drain clearance other posts on the topic are as you say so far less complete in their info on the topic it makes you wonder why the other posters bother? although in most cases they do go as far as mentioning the lesser mentioned drivers side drain you know the one thats more likely to be blocked as its tucked up behind the carbon canister in the drivers side arch and has a greater chance of blockage due the restriction this places on the drain opening!












1

[Jim]

[quote name='SA Intruder' date='Jan 3 2004, 16:08:38'] It is an absolute disgrace that this still happens....the damage potential is huge. [/quote]

[Guest Vin]

Many thanks to SA Intruder for photos - just experienced the rear washer pipe connection coming apart and a front footwell full of water, and the parking sensors not working etc etc.

the site again, has saved me hours of investigation (or worse still a visit to the dealer)
thanks

[Guest andeee]

I discovered the leaking rear washer pipe before I discovered this site and so tackled the problem without any prior knowledge. I completely removed the inner trim panel to get to the offending joint but not the weather seal. After making the repair the trim panel was just clipped and screwed back into place thus avoiding the fight with the weather seal. As they say "ignorance is bliss". Andy.

[Guest Turbo]

Just put mine back together. The rear washer jet had blocked up and it would appear that the extra pressure forced the washer hose to seperate. I tried them one day and could hear the water squirting out under the carpet. I stripped it all out and put it back together. I put a block of wood under the carpet and aimed a small blow heater at the footwell. It was dry after 3 hours. It must be possible to replace the washer hose with a complete bit from front to back. It will probably take all day but maybe it`s the answer.

[Guest MATT]

my washer pipe went in 2 places, 1st was in the passenger foot well, but thanks to posts on here, i fixed it no problem, and before any damage was done. 2nd was in the tailgate, i had to remove the door car, and re-connect the pipe to the motor mechanism.

top post SA intruder!

MATT

[Guest MATT]

even found my old topic on it lol

[url="http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=4980&hl=pipe&st=0"]<cough> CRAP CAR![/url]

MATT

[delboyt]

[quote name='coldcall' post='18581' date='Jul 25 2004, 05:56:49']
Note that the water in the footwell problem has two possible causes. Leaking rear washer fluid (well covered on this site) and a blocked scuttle drain covered here and elsewhere. Diagnosis is simple. If the footwell floods after heavy rain then you have the scuttle drain problem. If it floods in dry weather then you have the washer fluid problem.

This scuttle drain problem was relatively easy to solve on my 1996 Galaxy so read this before trying the other posts, which are less complete. The bulkhead (under the windscreen wiper mechanism at the base of the windsreeen) fills up with leaves and other crap. There is a drain hole at the back corner of it about 1.5 inches by 2 inches underneath the pollen filter but you cannot get your hand into that part of the bulkhead, so there is no need to remove the drip tray or the pollen filter or any other parts from inside the bulkhead. The trick is to take the inner plastic wheel arch cover (on the inside of the front passenger side wheelarch (or nearside front for the mechnically minded)). This is held on by six or seven star shaped screws and is very easy to get off. Start undoing the screws from the back - forwards because this plastic inner wing arch is flexible and you'll probably only need to undo 4 screws to get access. Note that some screws are not easy to see so feel inside the wheelarch for them. Pull the inner plastic wheel arch cover away (should come away easily unless you've missed a screw) until you have enough space to get your hand up inside the wheel arch.

On the inner wing of the car (the structural part of the car that would still be there if you took the visible wing off), you'll find there is a plastic drain cover with a rubber flap (which it supposed to act as a one way valve). If this drain cover feels blocked then pull it off. Now it is off, you'll be able to clear the hole properly because you'll be able to insert two fingers into the bulkhead and remove any crap that has blocked the drain hole from the outside in.

After you've cleaned the joints (with your mother in law's toothbrush), use some epoxy resin like "Araldite" to glue the plastic drain hole cover back on. Then screw the wheel arch cover back on and Bob's your father's brother.

Replace your mother in law's toothbrush after a quick rinse.
[/quote]
before you replace the wheel arch liner use a watering can or bucket of water to check if all the scuttles are clear by adding water into the bulk head nr the pollen filter & it should flow straight out from under the wheel arch onto your feet .
repeat the process on the drivers side but use care as there are leki wires that side so don't go pulling on them
you don't need to replace the 1 way rubber flap as nothing can go upinto it as it's protected by the wheel arch liner.

[Alhambra]

I had composed this thread earlier to ask you all here about the rear wiper/washer on my wifes Alhamra not working very well & how a "hissing" sound can be heard from the passengers side door sill.

Before posting I found this thread ... excellent.... just as i suspected... crap build quilty.

[Alhambra]

Stripped off the trim & fixed the leak in 10 min's.... removing the underliner & water from the foot well .... took an hour.

[img]http://www.serviceengineer.utvinternet.com/images/wet-lining.jpg[/img]

What is this box for, i assume either the front or rear parking sensor as the car has both.

[img]http://www.serviceengineer.utvinternet.com/images/lhs-seat.jpg[/img]