big_kev Posted February 5, 2010 Report Posted February 5, 2010 hi there,when i was out on the snow today my red handbreak warning light went on and than the abs orange light went on too?could it be the same problem (ie the ring is broken?) can i still ride with both lights on? The Red Handbrake warning light indicates a fault with your braking system....not good :D The ABS orange light will automatically come on as if your normal braking system is faulty there is no chance of the ABS working correctly.......however this does not indicate a fault with the ABS. Can you still ride with both lights on :D Of course you can....just remember that you may have no braking system :o Quote
doobie Posted July 20, 2012 Report Posted July 20, 2012 I would like to add my thanks to the OP for this thread. Had the dreaded ABS light come on last week checked with Vagcom and fault was LHF abs sensor. Took it to a local garage who quoted me £160 to repair!!! Whipped the wheel off to find the reluctor ring in two pieces so bought one from Ebay for the shocking amount of £2.49 inc. postage a new bolt from the stealers for £5.47 and it only took an hour to fit. Just a couple a notes, Firstly if once you remove the allen bolts you cannot seperate the hub from the bottom arm pop a small screwdriver in the joint and give it a tap to loosen it. Secondly if like me you do not have a blowtorch a hot air gun does the job just as well and although it doesnt exactly slip on it is pretty easy. £150 saved so Thanks again. Quote
xavier Posted September 14, 2013 Report Posted September 14, 2013 Just doing this on mine now, should the driveshaft be supported once I get it out of the hub? Also is it easier if I turn the wheel to full right lock (changing driver's side). Thanks! Quote
xavier Posted September 14, 2013 Report Posted September 14, 2013 well, job done. Not much fun, though probably to be expected working with 13 years of corrosion! Anyway got the hub separated from the wishbone eventually and now everything is back together. And it seems to work! Quote
xavier Posted September 14, 2013 Report Posted September 14, 2013 Just remembered, the allen key bolts that are used for the wishbone to hub, should these have threadlock on them? I could see blue threadlock on them when I removed them. Which is probably why it was so difficult separating said wishbone from hub, thinking about it! Quote
seatkid Posted November 7, 2013 Report Posted November 7, 2013 Just come back from a holiday in Portugal (nice), driving to the dentist and the ABS light comes on! :( VCDS scan shows front right sensor problem, (and engine coolant temperature sensor :( ) Fortunately got till next October to fix it (MOT) - hope its not the reluctor ring.... Quote
Larry Blatterman Posted April 14, 2016 Report Posted April 14, 2016 Seven years later, this post is still helping. Thanks for the info! Quote
leeuk Posted April 30, 2017 Report Posted April 30, 2017 New guy bump! Great post, my ABS light is on and won't go off is it likely to be this? Great post and site by the way Quote
BrianH Posted May 1, 2017 Report Posted May 1, 2017 New guy bump! Great post, my ABS light is on and won't go off is it likely to be this? Great post and site by the way Could be - easiest way to tell is going to be to get hold of a vcds lead and look at the diagnostics. Failing that inspect each sensor and ring in turn, including the wiring near to the wheel. Given how cheaply a lead can be picked up for I'd start with that if I was in your position, saves a lot of guessing for less than a Tenner! Quote
leeuk Posted June 2, 2017 Report Posted June 2, 2017 New guy bump! Great post, my ABS light is on and won't go off is it likely to be this? Great post and site by the way Could be - easiest way to tell is going to be to get hold of a vcds lead and look at the diagnostics. Failing that inspect each sensor and ring in turn, including the wiring near to the wheel. Given how cheaply a lead can be picked up for I'd start with that if I was in your position, saves a lot of guessing for less than a Tenner! I finally got round to taking it in for a diagnostics - lad I know owns a lead. It came back as front right abs ring and the guy mentioned the cv joint has caused error so new cv joint he recommends, waiting on a price. Anyone know If it's a costly job? Quote
BrianH Posted June 2, 2017 Report Posted June 2, 2017 New guy bump! Great post, my ABS light is on and won't go off is it likely to be this? Great post and site by the way Could be - easiest way to tell is going to be to get hold of a vcds lead and look at the diagnostics. Failing that inspect each sensor and ring in turn, including the wiring near to the wheel. Given how cheaply a lead can be picked up for I'd start with that if I was in your position, saves a lot of guessing for less than a Tenner! I finally got round to taking it in for a diagnostics - lad I know owns a lead. It came back as front right abs ring and the guy mentioned the cv joint has caused error so new cv joint he recommends, waiting on a price. Anyone know If it's a costly job? Depends how much the joint costs - which depends on the quality of it. If the joint is ok but the boot is damaged I'd just change the boot and put a new ring on if required, if the joint is already moving or making noise then replacing it is the way to go. You should be able to get an idea on prices by looking under your reg number on eurocarparts.com or similar. Quote
sparky Paul Posted June 3, 2017 Report Posted June 3, 2017 (edited) I've replaced both front ABS reluctor rings on mine over the years, they are only 4 quid each delivered off ebay, and it's also and quicker and easier than changing the whole CV joint. If the CV joint is otherwise okay, I wouldn't replace it for an inferior one from a factor. Because the job requires you to separate the driveshaft from the hub, you should also replace the driveshaft end bolt for a couple of quid, as it's a single use stretch bolt. Edited June 3, 2017 by sparky Paul Quote
BrianH Posted June 3, 2017 Report Posted June 3, 2017 I've replaced both front ABS reluctor rings on mine over the years, they are only 4 quid each delivered off ebay, and it's also and quicker and easier than changing the whole CV joint. If the CV joint is otherwise okay, I wouldn't replace it for an inferior one from a factor. Because the job requires you to separate the driveshaft from the hub, you should also replace the driveshaft end bolt for a couple of quid, as it's a single use stretch bolt.Agree with that - Pattern CV joints just don't last as well. The one i replaced on the galaxy was a used original one off ebay with new boots, thats been fine. I think the bolt came with the cv boot if i remember correctly if thats what you need to replace. You really need to know what he thinks is wrong with it (is it that the clips has come off/boot has come apart or is the ring broken as Paul has said? Quote
sparky Paul Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 I wouldn't be surprised if the CV joint is fine, and it's only the reluctor ring that's at fault. Many garages are unwilling to source the rings separately, or are unaware they are available separately. Most tend to deal with one motor factor for all their parts, and few factors actually stock the rings separately. Quote
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