Jim

What a nightmare - just fitted a Brink ball and flange and it took me hours, but what took me the longest (nearly 2 hours!!!) was figuring out how to get the little platics bits of body work below the rear lights off - without breaking them that is. These must come off in order to remove the rear bumper. Personally I think whoever designed this should be shot. The towbar itself wasn't too bad and and all holes pretty much lined up exactly. I have still to do the electrics, but that will be a job for another day, as I want to try to do this without splicing into the cables, so it will require me rigging something up. johnb80, where exactly are these cables my instructions warn me about? The only wires I could see on my car are for the parking sensors and they are above the existing exhaust heat shield. Can see no other cables anywhere near where the towbar slots in????

Ford customer care with confirm - get the VIN before you ring them though. I think early 2000 models that came with a 1 year warranty were 40K, newer ones with 3 year warranty were 60K.

johnb80, Did you fit the little heat shield to protect the break wiring and abs cable (from heat caused by the exhaust) when doing the towbar? This is mentioned on the Brink fitting instructions and I just wondered if it was 100% necessary. Jim.

Bump Anyone?

Why do you have no warranty? Ford provide a 3 year warranty on Galaxys after Summer (ish) 2000. My October 2000 Gal came with a three year warranty and also timing belt change at 40,000 (reduced from 60,000). Double check with Ford Customer Care and not the dealer.

Thanks yurir, I assume your car was out of warranty? Car is booked in for Ford to look at - along with the air con.

Thanks yuyir, The 2nd-->3rd gear change is very ropey at first, with the change initially happening with a bit of a thump - just as if you enganged the clutch very quickly during a manual change. It does however get much better as the car warms up. The change then feels as if the clutch is slipping on a manual. All other changes are quick and smooth. Are these symtpons consistent with what you suggest?

Dally, at the minute. Aircon not working - can get it regassed at work for free to see it that fixes it. If not, then into Ford. Auto gearbox - 2nd --> 3rd gear change just doesn't feel right. Fuel gauge not always reading 100%. As you say time will tell - figers crossed for all us out there with extended warranties!!!!!

Dally - your're not too bad. I have 2 years 8 months left to run on my 3 year policy! :( Anyway, reading this initially ruinned my day, but after reading this posted in another thread, things don't seem as bad as I initially thought!

When mine went on my VW Passat, I disconnected it and the car ran "better" and revved more smoothly. Reconnected it and back to running like a dog. New MAF from GSF for

Any sign of the bulletin number, or does anyone know if the fix is now out?

Having a similar problem. Becasue of the nature of the problem, it's a bit hard to prove to the dealer. I mentioned that my fuel gauge would read empty, and then not empty, but was told it was OK when the dealer checked. Anyone know the bulletin number?

Just returned from a weekend in England. Had the car completely full, including releasing air and then filling again (expansion tank). Managed to do just over 600 miles before the refuel light came on. Over 450 of these miles were motorway driving. Quite impressed with the fuel economy. ;)

They are fused separately on mine. Fuses 8 & 10, rated at 15A. Check fuses before looking for a broken wire. Also, on mine, noticed fuse 1 was missing, along with some others. However, it says fuse 1 is for "Engine management (2.8 l CD-V6 24V engines and turbo diesel engines). As mine is a 115 TDi, I thought I should have had one of these?

Only got it free as I bought car after 40K service, supposedly with a FSH. All credit to the dealer I suppose, because they honoured the FSH and did the belt, although, it was them who missed it in the first place!

Temperature sensor replaced on Friday and drove 35 miles home and everything seems fine. Temp gague is definitely reading correctly now and no sign of my other problems - especially gear changes. I will keep my fingers crossed, but it looks like the problem(s) is fixed.

What are the 11th and 12th characters of your VIN number and someone will look it up on the TIS for you?

The best way I can describe it is that the "bolts" cut threads into the plastic prongs. I don't know the name for these, but I guess the are something similar to self tapping screws, except of course, they are bolts. Had a look at the TIS for this - looks a bit of a mare. Lots to take off. Perhaps another approach? The clips are made of 2 plastic parts, a sping and a plastic pin. On mine, the fault was caused by the plastic pin not being strong enough and bending. Perhaps, rather than replacing the whole clip, you could leave the base in place and "dismanltle" the clip, replacing the worn bits - almost certainly the plastic pin?

Agree with you seatkid - but looks like Hobin's don't. Be through all this with a Ford dealer - they thought the cambelt was due at 60K and ended up having to do it for me FOC shortly after I bought the car. Looks like gazza007 is being given incorrect info - this time from a Seat dealer?

Interesting .... 40K on my 2000 (Oct) Galaxy that came with a 3 year warranty.

No idea what arrow is pointing at - it was already on the pic, which is from the Brink fitting instruction - see earlier link. Not my car - mine is a much nicer colour. :o I've yet to see a car with one fitted to see what it looks like in real life, but I think the electrics bracket would be about level with the bottom of the bumper - same as the Bosal, which I have had a good look at.

Which side? I have done the drivers side one on my own car - last Saturday actually. To gain access, I removed the storage compartment in the rear - 4 screws inside and one in where the jack etc are kept. It then required a bit of gentle persuasion to remove this compartment unit as it is held in place around the area of the rear most seat belt. I was then able to get my hand down and remove the "bolts" from the back of the clip. Be careful not to drop these bolts as I'm sure it must be a nightmare to retrieve them! From memory, I think they are 10 mm. Also, watch out for the wires on the speaker. Now you're gonna tell me yours is the passenger side one!

That's why I think the Bosal or Brink is a better option. See the attached picture of a Brink - although it is a swan neck, the electrics are in the same position as the flange & ball. The carrier (made by Pendle) goes between the flange and ball, in the same place as your electrics and yes my towbar cannot be swan neck. I have no stabiliser as my trailer tent does not require it, but you could look at www.ukcampsite.co.uk for advice/tips on that.

Tigger, AFAIK, the insurance for for caravan will cover your van whilst towing. Also, it's not a bad idea to get a camping carnet as this will also provide insurance cover whilst on site. Check www.ukcampsite.co.uk for more info regarding this issue.

However, below is my cycle carrier mounting bracket, with the electrics mounted on either the left of right hand side using the plate also shown in the pic. I think it would be a miracle if the electrics mounted in this way did not interfere with the sensors, which is why I want to get them mounted below the bumper if possible.