seatkid

thinks.....remap....warped head.....how on earth do you test a head gasket?........

Check the wiring in the rubber boots to the doors. There is likely to be a short. The wiring in these degrades and the insulation drops off or the cores break. Start with the most used door - drivers and work your way through them. A search will show this is a common problem.

When you replace the fuse box check the voltage from the alternator, engine running at around 1500 rpm, no load (lights etc). If the voltage is above 15.0 volts, then the voltage regulator in the alternator is faulty and the alternator is cooking your battery with mucho current. On the other hand if the voltage is below 13.0 volts, then a faulty battery could be the culprit, demanding too much current. It could have been down to loose connections in the old fuse box, causing a lot of heat where the connections are. If you're happy its none of these then check the outgoing cable after the fuse for evidence of a short to chassis.

The whole lot. The airbox has 3 or 4 lugs which sit in grometted holes in the wing. 2 at LH side and 1 or 2 underneath. Push fit. Once you disconnect the MAF, small hose, and front intake (just tug) the whole lot comes out with a tug

Disconnect the MAF (2 allen key bolts) Pull off the small hose at the back of the box Pull off the front airintake hose Unclip 3 cover clips and remove top half remove air filter Tug bottom half up and to the right - its only fitted into rumbber grommets. Should take 2 minutes.....

I was told by Skoda that they now change cambelts at 40,000 miles / 4 years - IIRC their previous handbook recommendation used to be inspect at 60,000 and change if necessary else reinspect at 80,000, 100,000 miles etc. (Old Tdi engines) The problem appears to be that since the introduction of PD engines VAG have had significant failure rates under 60,000 miles. Hence the need to upgrade the kit and play safe. However 40,000 miles is plain silly, you can pay ~

Have you had it regassed? It may be overfilled and the 3 way pressure switch is cutting it out on over pressure.

junk? ebay?

Only old ideas.... warped completely warped head old ideas are usually worth listening to..... :o

IN01 = Oil Service Required - Creditcard sufficient IN02 = Major Service Required - Bank approval recommended IN03 = (Sharp Intake of Breath)Extremely Major Service required, maybe more - Cash in Life Insurance NOW! IN04 = Don't ask, you can't afford it.... :o

Black smoke is due to lack of turbo boost. Theres a good possibilty he didnt put the intercooler back on properly, which is rattling free somewhere, losing boost pressure...check this first... Or....You possibly damaged the (hot) turbo with the (cold)water fracturing the ceramic vanes. (as the water got past the turbo into the intercooler) It wasn't a clever idea to try to start it after the incident. But I guess we would all do the same. Only thing to do is to start stripping from the air intake - turbo - intercooler. You could always take it to the dealer and of course deny any knowledge of the incident and demand it is fixed under warranty! :o

Black smoke is due to lack of turbo boost. Theres a good possibilty he didnt put the intercooler back on properly, which is rattling free somewhere, losing boost pressure...check this first... Or....You possibly damaged the (hot) turbo with the (cold)water fracturing the ceramic vanes. (as the water got past the turbo into the intercooler) It wasn't a clever idea to try to start it after the incident. But I guess we would all do the same. Only thing to do is to start stripping from the air intake - turbo - intercooler. You could always take it to the dealer and of course deny any knowledge of the incident and demand it is fixed under warranty! ^_^

Thats the problem..... This little pipe is the "atmospheric" connection to the TCS - turbo control solenoid. If it is blocked then the turbo vacuum control cannot operate correctly resulting in an over or under boost condition that is picked up by the ECU and immediately trips into "limp home" (no boost) mode. Turning off the ignition resets the mode. Replace the pipe - I guess you could disconnect it at the TCS end to prove the point, but it should be connected to the airbox to breath filtered air.

Its an electrical problem not a fuel problem. The flashing led is an error code. Check the area where the ECU / Immobiliser is (under drivers dash) for water ingress. (leaking window/bulkhead seal or grommets missing) You should also check your scuttle drains aren't blocked, causing the water to build up and find a weak spot on the bulkhead.

NCB - No Claims Bonus - if no claim is paid then NCB is unaffected. Nothing to do with being "involved in an accident". All insurance companies care about is money, and you can withdraw a claim. Of course I forgot about the damage to the other car - If they claim then you're stuffed and you're NCB is docked unless they agree for you paying to fix it privately.

Possibly a loose bottom crankshaft pulley causing shift in timing.

Bad luck, next time don't pull over! You can withdraw the claim and it will not affect your NCB. Your NCB is only affected when your insurance company pays out. (If the other party's company pays out your NCB is not affected) Tell your insurance company to hold off while you investigate a private repair and get a quote for the repair before you decide - I think you will find it cost more than you think - I doubt it will be less than

Your bank balance... :P

Not true. VAG-COM can indicate battery voltage before and after the engine has been started. Also possible to identify if each glow plug is working. Considering that all the glowplugs are attached to a common busbar driven from a relay which AFAIK has no connection to the ECU from the "live" side, then I would say that would be quite an impressive feat. Also I doubt if VAG-COM will monitor the battery voltage dynamically during a start - which is what is important.

I doubt it.....

1 - 2 secs is nothing too bad, could be down to a weak battery and/or one or two duff glowplugs, both of which diagnostics will not pick up. You can check glowplugs with an multimeter. They should register between 0.1 and 0.5 ohms (each). Duff glowplugs are usually open circuit. If you're on the original battery then 4 -5 years seems to be about the limit for these - yours might be starting to fail. A lot of reports here recently of loose bottom crankshaft pulleys. These throw out the timing and cause starting and poor running depending on how much it moved.

The Galaxy Autobox has a torque convertor and not a clutch. Torque convertors "slip" and provide torque multiplication over a range of revs. Its normal for the torque convertor to give the impression of a constant engine speed whilst initially accellerating from a standstill. But you should hear a drop in revs when the gearbox changes gear. On a worn gearbox the gear changes may be slow and slurred adding to the constant revs impression. If you are concernced, and if your gearbox has seen arduous service or has done a large mileage you should consider changing the oil. Unfortunately this is both a difficult and expensive exercise - there is no dipstick - and it does not use "red atf" but a rather special and expensive fluid only available from dealers. The Jatco auto boxes have proven to be unreleliable in this application, and "cooked" oil is common. There is plenty of info on auto gearbox problems and checking or changing oil - use the forum search.

1.) Clean the Central Locking Control Unit (with washing up liquid and a toothbrush if you can't afford PCB Cleaner (aka Brake/Clutch Cleaner)) - then run under clean water and dry out thoroughly (use a hair dryer if you're in a hurry but don't cook it) 2.) Drill a hole in the floor......to drain the water now and in the future 3.) fix your leaking windscreen washer pipe.... :) 4. Refit the unit.... :ph34r:

I insist on getting the last word in....... twaddle.... :) :) :ph34r:

hmmm.....strange.....are you sure you put the new one in? And did you examine the old one - was it stuck open?