seatkid

Not easy....involves removing the inner of the two piece drain plug. If nothing drips out (at the correct temperature) then its not overfilled, to check its not underfilled you have to top it up through another plug and wait till it starts to drip out through the open drain plug...... :) Do a search - this has been covered before in detail with pictures........

no...."All Screwed Up" is what most people call me.... :) All car batteries are Lead-Acid. In recent years all car batteries have switched to using calcium instead of antimony for reasons of being maintenance free I don't think theres any hazard in using an oscilloscope anywhere on a vehicle (except ht/spark plug leads!). The obvious thing to avoid with any measuring device is not short the leads! I think Bleeno has good intentions but perhaps is not putting his point across very well. It doesn't help when the the term DC (Direct Current) has really nothing to do with current (in this context anyway). The output of an alternator is a 3 phase bridge rectifier output. Depending on cable resistance,battery impedance,circuit capacitance and load, you will get a little ripple on the "live" wire.

Can I now state for the record....... "Silver Calcium" batteries are in fact lead acid batteries......... Oscilloscopes measure voltage not current........ This year is not a leap year.......... I could continue....... :P

No... :P

You will lose any security code in the radio - so check you know it first.

Believe me.....I'm a doctor........ :P

I changed mine without even jacking the car. But I can see that taking the wheel off may make it easier. However you will probably want an extension bar to crack the nuts so make sure your jack is very secure.

The cable may be in poor condition, but with no electricals (lights etc) on, it shouldstill not get hot. The alternator is pumping out max amps but not managing to reach the correct terminal voltage which is about 14.5 volts. Your battery is dead, on charge it should easily rise to 14+ volts. 12.72 indicates a shorted cell. You need a new battery.

Seriously though, the advice given is applicable to all cars. If anyone wants to save fuel, follow the advice. For a Galaxy diesel you can crack 60 mpg if driving as advised. As for "reasonable time", I doubt you will save more than a few minutes on a lot of journeys by flooring it. Remember - there are statutory speed limits too!

I hope you didnt buy a "universal" lambda probe from a motor factors. IIRC they don't seem to work properly in a Galaxy and you need a genuine/OEM unit for the emissions to come right down. Try a search for lambda for further information. I don't know why you want to use high viscosity oil - is it burning oil? For all petrol engine cars (not just Galaxys) the important parts are a clean air filter, and spark plugs / ignition leads that are in good condition. I'm not sure if the 2.0 litre has egr (exhaust gas recirculation), but if it has that could also effect emissions.

Go get em boy!

Some keys have one battery, others have two batteries. Also the battery and button contacts in the key can get quite gunged up depending on how its been treated. I suggest you carefully strip down your key - make sure the immobiliser chip does not fall out - and clean it with pcb cleaner and a couple of qtips. Change batteries if necessary. As for immobiliser problem - maybe check the wiring in the rubber gaitor to the drivers door - could it be possible the immobiliser still thinks the car is locked until your opening/closing finally flexes a broken wire so its closed?

2.3 = chain

Brake switch is faulty FAQ fitting a new brake switch

me neither... ;)

Some people just have no sense of humour..... ;) ...or respect for open discussion......... There's no real problem to a user switching off the airbag in a car which has a accesible design feature to do so. Step into a new Corsa, and you can switch off the passengers airbag, but also a prominent light on the dash is lit to remind the driver and the passenger that this valuable safety device is switched off. Switching off the passenger airbag, removes the airbag deployment danger to a rear facing baby seat installed in the front seat, but on the other hand increases sharply the danger for all other types of passenger in the front seat. ROSPA and many other respected safety organisations all highly recommend that children do not travel in a front seat.

Not sure, someone needs to check the TIS. PCB cleaner requires a good couple of hours to dry completely especially if it gets under components. It electrically conducts when still present causing problems on electronics.

Dumping pressure is the default condition(i.e if you disconnect the plug) , it requires voltage to build pressure. Check the solenoid is not open circuit and check there is a voltage to it.

Its so nice to see we're attractring a "better" class of member nowadays. :angry:

and your point is?..... :P

Have you repiped the vacuum control system correctly? http://img317.imageshack.us/img317/3593/dsc006047ru.jpg The ATM connection goes to the airfilter housing, OUT goes to the turbo, Vac goes to the vacuum circuit. Check voltage to the Turbo Control Solenoid. It should vary between 0 and 12 volt depending on boost demand. If zero then could have a wiring or ECU fault.

Fraid it is not really possible to check. From evidence I've read, chemical indicators don't work a lot of the time, in any case yours is a diesel and I think chemical tests may only work with petrol engines (exhaust by-products). Not to mention the supersize capacity of the Gal's cooling system. The problem is likely to get worse, at the moment it only happens under load. This suggests to me it could also be a head bolt snapped or......cracks in the head. I read somewhere else about remaps etc causing cracks. The reason for no obvious water in the oil is the oil is at temp (100deg +) and the water just boils off or the crack is leading into an inlet or exhaust port. You can either wait for the problem to get worse or be pro active. That is, after you checked all other possible causes/leaking - thermostat - radiator - water pump...remember that the leak will only occur when the engine is hot so check thermostat housing, water pump etc for signs of evaporated water (white chalky stains)

The immobiliser chip in the key is seperate from the remote. It sometimes falls out of the key if you open it up. AFAIK it can only be programmed by a dealer, for obvious reasons......

You don't have to smash the side window if you own the car though...... :)

I suggest you look in your car's manual...... :)