philclemo

Hi Paul I have had a go at that but to no avail. It seems as though it has some sort of no return locking device built in. On saying that I know from personal experience that a Hyundai tensioner is able to be reset by using a vice. If anyone knows of a way then I am all ears, as forking out another

Hi Seatkid The part is a one use piece of kit. Once it is deployed it is impossible to compress it back to 'as shipped' state. That is unless someone knows of a way??? Phil

Thanks Guys Not looking forward to forking out for a new timing chain tensioner though! Anybody know if there is a cheaper supply of these? Phil

Hi Paul Thanks for your reply. I will check it at the weekend, but it is hard to believe that the timing could be out as I marked the chain links to the sprocket and these thankfully married up on re-assembly. As I have mentioned in my first post, the existing timing marks are woeful, as it is almost impossible to measure 2.2 and 2.9 deg, surely the sensible thing would be to have the marks corresponding with the top edge of the casting? Thanks again for your reply. Phil

Update! Refitted skimmed head, new gasket etc. Engine started (eventually), no leaks, no pressurising of the coolant system up to now. One niggle! There seems to be a significant loss of power, initial acceleration (from a standing start is fine) but flooring the pedal at say 30 and it takes an age to get to 40 and a lot of induction noise from the air box. Hill climbs are quite embarrassing! I have ran the engine and then disconnected the MAF and it stalled, so safe to assume its not the MAF. After doing a search on this forum for "power loss" the main results relates to diesel units, but the petrol posts either place blame on the MAF, blocked or failed CAT (how can I check this), O2 sensor (I haven't checked this yet), or the EGR valve (again how can this be checked) - none of these flag up a code on VAG as I understand(?). So really frustrating to be honest. One thought is throwing me to doubts about the inlet manifold as this was refitted after the head was skimmed, all hoses going to it seem to be sound. Should I reset the ECU? As mentioned I have searched the forum but any suggestions on how to check the CAT or the EGR valve would be helpful as ever. Looking forward to any ideas. Thanks again, Phil

Update. Got the head back from the engineers. It's been pressure tested with no cracks found and the valves have been lapped in. He told me that the head was warped and he had to take two skims off it. It's looking very pretty at the moment on my bench! Got another head set, FAI brand this time and no tightening info. In a bit of a dilemma now, should I follow the TIS/Haynes or the suggestion on the British Gaskets packaging? By the way, just picked up a new timing chain tensioner, it was

Update! Have removed the head and it is going to be skimmed et.c. One point though, on the Ford TIS it suggests a torque down of 10 nm, then 35 and then 2x 90 deg. Which I followed. However, looking at the torqueing suggestion on the gasket packaging it suggests a different routine, namely 24, then 54, then loosen by 90 deg, then tighten back to 54, then 2x 90 deg. Overall a lot tighter than the TIS recommendation which makes me wonder whether the head was torqued down enough in the first place thus leading to my problem! Will update further. Phil

Hi Chris Thanks for your reply. You may well be right. We checked it rather rudimentarily. The puzzling thing is that the engine ran so well for the best part of 2 weeks before we got the misfiring (on starting) and the pressurising back. I'm all for the most economical solution and despite another head set and tensioner, this would be more cost effective than a recon head (which I'm having difficulty in sourcing incidentally). An option suggested to me was to change the engine, which is looking a similar cost to a recon head (!), but looking at the procedure for that is filling me with dread!

Hi everyone, The ongoing saga of our Gal and the coolant problem (coolant system pressurising) has now arrived at the prospect of a new cylinder head! The engine for our Gal is E5SB, can an E5SA be used on this block? I know that there a bhp difference between the two (the E5SB has 140 as opposed to 145 bhp or kw for the E5SA), but there doesn't appear to be many 'B' variants available. Any reply would be appreciated, thanks. Phil

Hi All Just thought I would share our experience we have had with our Gal. We traded in our R reg Mk1 (2.3 manual) in January last year for a 03 2.3 Zetec Auto. After a few months ownership we noticed the expansion tank was ejecting most of its contents (staining on the tank and wet battery tray). We also discovered that the run on pump was pooped so no coolant being moved around to the back, a trip to Europarts and

Since turk90210's reply, I have once again been investigating this problem. The water on the run on pump as shown in my previous pics has not re-occured so I'm presuming that was rainwater from the bonnet finding its own way. Last Friday morning I used a bottle of Radweld (the one that hopes to sort all leaks). I poured it in the expansion bottle, topped up with coolant and ran it for the prescribed time. Checked it, no apparent leaks. The Gal was used as usual for school and work trips that day and then a return trip to Warrington. So approx 70-80 miles covered. On it's return I checked under the bonnet. Level was as it had been but the battery tray was wet with coolant, and along the split line of the header tank and there was dripping underneath (along the chassis side rails). I started it up again, but switched the rear heater on, the level fell in the expansion tank. I decided to let it cool before I topped it up again. Next morning goes to top up, removes the cap with a release of pressure and gurgle and the level came back up again! It seems as though there is an airlock perhaps? Is there a bleed valve by any chance? The curious thing is that the temperature gauge never goes beyond the 90. Very puzzling! Phil

My word turk90210 what good eyes you have! I will investigate and let you know.....

Hi Guys Our 2003 Gal is losing coolant mysteriously too. I tried Radweld type remedy to no avail. Could not find any obvious drips anywhere until Sunday. I checked the level in the header tank, and it was down to the split line. Topped up and then found a dripping from what looks like a motorised valve fitted under the scuttle plate, it has two heater pipes connected to it. See pics below - what is it!!!! http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk265/philclemo/IMG_0707.jpg Picture from front, part located under scuttle http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk265/philclemo/IMG_0720.jpg Picture from underneath showing water loss Look forward to your thoughts! Phil

Hi All Cyborg, there seems, as ever with legislation areas of grey! Got this off a fellow member off the jaguarforum. http://www.oft.gov.uk/shared_oft/reports/676408/oft1241.pdf Very interesting reading, who would be a secondhand car dealer? The update is that I will get an update tomorrow! Will let you all know! Phil

Hi Mirez Thanks for that. It certainly puts a different light on the subject. I can confirm that the Gal is back with them it has been there since 3:00pm on Monday. I had left a letter in the car describing the events leading up to it's eventual breakdown including a list of faults we want rectifying before we take the car back. They list as follows: FUEL GAUGE NOT WORKING INTERIOR TABLE STRUT NOT REPAIRED (requested this when we agreed the deal) REMOTE KEY NOT SYNCED WITH IMMOBILISER FIRING ON 2-3 CYLINDERS ON COLD START PARKING SENSORS NOT WORKING OIL LEAK MISSING BATTERY COVER (which was on the car when we first looked at it) LOOSE 'A' PILLAR TRIM DRIVERS SIDE ENGINE NOW NOT RUNNING In the letter I asked them to let me know when they expect to have the car ready so that we could arrange transportation for my wife in the meantime. By 3:00pm yesterday (24 hours since having the car back) no response from them, so I rang to see how things were going. I was told that the technician would call as soon as he knew anything, and it would the technician who I would hear from. I got the impression of a complete lack of enthusiasm from him (who I suspect was the proprietor of the dealership). From my standpoint, and please offer your views here if you think I am being difficult, we were the customer and we genuinely looked to update our trusty old Gal. We looked at this vehicle, did the deal and asked them to rectify one thing prior to collection (that being replacing a support strut for one of the Picnic tables), we were told the car would be ready in 2-3 days by the salesman, this being a Saturday meant Tuesday/Wednesday which was ideal as my wife was off during that whole week. Come Wednesday I rang them in hope that it would be ready, only to be told by another chap that the lead time is 3-5 days and not the 2-3 the salesman had suggested inferring that I was making it up. The annoying thing being that they were supposedly preparing the car for 5 days and in fact had managed lose the battery cover and not even attempt to repair the strut - what had they been doing with it? The rest is as my original post. I am tempted, if they don't contact me in the meantime, to wait until 3:00pm today and ring again, if they cannot give me any indication of when all the faults will be sorted I will demand a refund. If I go down this route, a few questions, we traded in our Gal, MOT is due in mid Feb, I informed them of an airbag light as being the only known fault and the trade in value reflected this, if they have already passed it on to let's say another dealer as is, I am sure they would be able to get it back, if they have attempted to have it repaired, where do I stand? Also, would I lose my deposit of

Hi Mirez Doesn't the fit for purpose apply only after they have had the opportunity to rectify the problem(s) and fail to sort? In any case it is back with them to sort. What is Relay 30 for? I don't have the handbook at the moment. The recovery guy who came out yesterday tried to get it going, and the strange thing was the fuel gauge started working (sort of). If the engine started, the gauge would start moving, after several starts the gauge started registering the correct fuel level. The curious thing was that you could tell when the engine was going to die because the gauge would go into free fall then the engine would stop. The recovery guy determined that the fuel pump was switching off, hence the stalling. Could this be related to relay 30? It doesn't appear to have had any form of service by the looks of things, the misfire on cold start may be coil pack as per Zorgmans reply, or as you say the spark plugs. Once it has run for half a minute or so it's fine. Any, we'll see what they come up with. Phil

Hi all As posted on another topic, we picked up our 2003 Zetec on Friday. We bought it from a dealer who was located approx 40 miles from us, it had 82,000 miles on the clock, FFSH, one owner? Three months'comprehensive warranty with the car. We traded in our trusty 98 2.3 Ghia Gal. The first problem was the fact that as we tried to start the car, the remote fob would not start the car although it unlocked it! Second problem was as we warmed it up, it ran out of fuel! The dealer, whilst apologising profusely, poured in about a gallon of unleaded and she fired up. All well and good......until we filled her up at the Tesco filling staion around the corner.

Hi Gregers Yes it was from a dealer and the poor car has numerous problems, this is the most insignificant, but that is another thread! Needless to say it's going back to them.. Will keep you posted.

Hi George Have opened the key up and found the chip missing. However I have an old key fob from our previous Gal (the remote part of it had failed but still kept the key), it's the same design key etc, would swapping over the chip work? I suppose I would still have the two keys issue to sync it with the car though? Phil

Thanks George Will do! Phil

Hi All Just picked our 'new' Gal up (2003 2.3 Zetec, auto) and a few problems already! We received two keys with the car, a remote key and a plain bladed key. The remote will lock and unlock the car but will not start the car, the plain key will start the car. I am assuming that the remote key needs syncing with the PATS system, but as posted here I would need two synced keys? That being the case, what are we looking at to have Ford sort out either reprogramming the current remote key, or for me to source another remote and have new blade cut by a locksmith and then get Ford to reprogram the both of them? Any suggestions, as ever, would be welcome. Phil

Ok thanks for the replies so far. If I wanted it repaired by my local stealer, what would I expect it to cost? Some things are probably best left to the professionals I suppose. :blink:

Hi all Not a new problem judging by the number of results after my search, but I'm looking for perhaps a number of answers related to the same problem. Our Gal is my wife's. 2.3 Ghia manual, 1998. She loves it and I love driving it too. To be fair, since ownership, the car has not cost us a lot to keep going. We bought the Gal with 68k, in 2005. Since then it has had a full set of tyres, a coil pack and a new ABS sensor cable. It has done 84k now and the Airbag Warning light has come on. I haven't carried out any investigation as yet, I thought i would research first on this forum. I am a member of the jaguarforum.co.uk and i have found the advice on there immeasurable. Anyhow, I notice from previous posts that the 'clock spring' appears to be the regular culprit - how do I find this? Also, providing i can purchase the part, is it possible to reset the light with the correct code reader? If so, which reader would anyone recommend? Am i being cheeky here? Three questions in one post! Any help would be appreciated - Thanks Phil