Seatdriver

Just purchased a 56 1.8 tdci 125 and I must say its a very nice car to drive but I have noticed a rather irritating noise that sounds to me like all is not well! When accelerating uphill in second gear from 15mph if I lift gently off the throttle at approx 2000 rpm there is a noticeable metallic fluttering sound. I have only heared it before on a 56 1.9 tdi Sharan when the turbo is spooling up and the throttle is suddenly closed and the turbo emits a fluttering/chattering grating sound. I would appreciate it if any other 1.8 125 tdci drivers could have a go and see if their cars make the same noise. Will be sending the car into the garage to be checked and see what they think. Thanks

These two pipes you mention that come through the bulkhead and disappear behind the centre console (and are just over the foot rest) get so hot on my vehicle (when upto operating temp) that you cannot touch them and the side of the console gets pretty darn hot too. Anyone else experienced this, going to have a word with the main agent regarding this! 1.8tdci 125 56 plate

This fault appears to manifest itself in the 115BHP models. And in 99% of cases the variable vane sticks. This is my opinion so please nobody shoot me down but: To rev the engine hard in lower gears is NO GOOD. To flex the turbo you need a high gear like so and up a hill with a warm engine: 1st to start rolling 2nd upto 20mph 3rd upto 40mph 4th take it over 60mph (this will take the revs under heavy load over 3000RPM which is where I think the computer begins to back off the turbo vanes) 3000RPM APPEARS TO BE THE CRITICAL POINT AS IF THE VANES STICK FOR EVEN A FRACTION OF A SECOND YOU WILL GET TURBO OVERBOOST FAULT CODE RECORDED AND YOU WILL LOOSE POWER AS THE VACCUM ON THE LINKAGE IS INSTANTLY REMOVED AND VANES MOVE TO FULLY OPEN AND YOU ARE LEFT WITH NO PERFORMANCE UNTIL YOU SWITCH OFF AND ON AGAIN. Getting the code cleared makes not a jot of difference to the running of the engine so save your money. To the person who has this problem and it always trips, I feel that the turbo has to be worked up gradually to a high temperature over an hour or so, then made to work hard. Looking at the breakdown of the variable vane mechanism the main part that gives trouble is a moveable ring which actuates each of the individual vanes. I would think that no cleaner will be of any use if it is really bad, just take my advice, get it heavily loaded and persist cos a few hours of pointless driving round is a hell of a lot cheaper than a new turbo (WHICH IT DOES NOT NEED) the vane mechanism needs cleaning and this means removing the turbo from the engine as it is not possible to undo and part this mechanism in situ. Oh I have to add that when I gave mine a damn good thrashing I put in a tank of BP ultima. No matter how hard I push my sharan now there is NO black smoke from the exhaust even after loads of running round town. Have fun

I suspect its just a quirk of the vehicle, my 2003 Sharan Tdi does just the same and so do two others, a 2004 galaxy Tdi (115) and a Alhambra 2005 Tdi (130). I have always found that run the car to hot then leave for 10-20 min hey presto it never fires instantly like it does when its cold. Turning the ingnition key to the point where the fuel pump runs then turning off and then starting nearly always results in the engine firing instantly. All cars mentioned have had new fuel, air filters and are fully serviced, in my opinion too much of a coincidence!

Well the old Sharan 03 Tdi is really beginning to get on my nerves, just my luck theair con works fine but the compressor has developed a definate bearing rumble when the clutch pulls in. It is silent when dis-engaged. I have now disconnected the feed to the electo magnetic clutch for now until I find the fuse to pull. Looks like thats the last time the old bus will have air con. Anyone experienced this rumble from the compressor!

Back again with the A/C problem. Looking at the fuseboard on my 03 tdi Sharan there are two fuses showing the snow symbol one is a 15A the other a 30A. Anyone know which is for the compressor and which is for the fans. I suspect the 15A is for the compressor as the fans will take a lot of power. Anyone confirm which is which. There is a third fuse showing the snow symbol but it is incorporated with the fan etc and its only 10A. My money is still on the 15A. Ta

Here we go again, Started my 03 Sharan TDi yesterday and noticed as the A/C cut in there is a faint whirring/rumbling noise (sounds like a dry bearing) which I can hear from in the cabin, but can't outside (being a diesel its rather noisy so maybe its drowning out the sound). Wife then reported "oh yes forgot to tell you smelt a funny smell yesterday like hot plastic!" Anyway this is possibly the compressor on its way out and this may sound a bit ironic as the A/C is working fine, nice and cold but how can I disable the A/C system to stop the compressor cutting in, is there a seperate fused supply or can I simply pull the power connector off the compressor? Or could it be something else. Thanks

Hi all, Here's a challenge, just how many 115bhp galaxy/sharans can we get to go into limp home due to turbo issues. Over the next week try this one and report back: Start your vehicle, get it nice and warm, take it onto a motorway and accelerate hard in 4th gear from approximately 45mph on a slight incline. For all you who mainly drive round town prepare for the sudden loss of power. At approx 3000 rpm/60-65mph (this seems to be the critical speed and rpm) the engine will loose the turbo assistance. The reason: The variable vanes in the turbo stick as they have never been closed this far and the collected debris and carbon cause them to bind and fail to open and reduce turbo boost. Hey presto TURBO OVERBOOST fault. It usually only happens once as you accelerate hard and doesn't re-occur until you run round town and again clog up the turbo. How to cure: The variable vane part of the turbo needs cleaning, not a new turbo. However try this if you are game, for those of you with this curse, I did and it made a hell of a difference:(I did need the sand) I went to Wicks and purchased 15 bags of sand. I then allowed my Sharan to warm up, then ran it up hill and down dale for 1 hour, and yes it went into limp mode the first time I pushed it hard up a hill, but it didn't again After 2 hours of driving up hill's flat out in 4th upto 60mph, I ran it down the motorway for 40miles and left it in 4th gear repeatedly slowing down and accelerating hard upto 70mph. The result: One very very hot engine and possibly glowing turbo but not a single hesitation during acceleration remained and a distinct happy whistle from the turbo as it spools up even at lower revs. Used the following day and the engine was definately more responsive. Shouldnt have to do this though so I suppose its just plain bad design. On a point do any 130bhp engine vehicles suffer this problem or is it only 115bhp as the turbos are different.

Hi, Does anyone know how the Boost Control Solenoid works on a MK2 1.9 TDi 115 PD engine. Im interested in how the ECU contols the vaccum to this valve, the way this valve regulates the vaccum to the turbo and what all the pipes are for. Obviously one pipe is the main Vaccum feed, one is a atmospheric feed, what are the others for? Anyone know or has anyone got an internal drawing of this valve? Thanks

Hi, When the coil pack failed on my mondeo some years back the engine would idle with no apparent misfire, however once any load was put on the engine it would misfire quite badly (felt like it was running on 3) but I still could get upto 70mph no problem One simple and non dangerous way to check the coil pack is to remove it. On my mondeo the underneath was potted in a white resin and there was obvious black staining of this material. When I looked closer there were very faint track lines within the compound. Purchased new coil pack from ford and hey preso 100% ok for the remainder of the time I owned the car. A note on the HT system. The voltages produced by electronic ignition systems are very high and potentially fatal so be very careful messing with the leads. hope this helps

hi, As to this steep hill, The Lake Distict! So yes Scotland Direction and yes I was aware of the switch off and on nonsense, v.dangerous having to carry out this on a busy motorway! Regarding throttle position sensor, I wondered about this as the Sharan is now coming upto its 100,000mile and it must be worn. Wonder if the loss of the throttle position under acceleration could cause the ECU to trip out the Turbo as it has in effect lost an important input into the system at a rather critical point. Also wondered if the valve that is hidden away behind the heat shield that controls the amount of vaccuum delivered to the diaphragm that subsequently pulls on the turbo actuator hence moving the vanes could be worn and occasionally sticking (the valve not the vanes or linkage), it wouldnt take much and it must contain a stepper motor of sorts. After 100,000 miles it must be worn! Penny for anyones thoughts.

Hi, I have posted on this forum before regarding my 03 Sharan overboosting and going into limp home. However I have recently observed the following and wondered what other peoples views are: When the car is stone cold it will pull in every gear no problem even uphill. The revs get taken to 3000rpm(no choice im afraid as its a very long steep hill) and it NEVER cuts out regardles of how hard or how long you push it, it whatever gear. When it is at full operating temp again I can start at the bottom of a very long steep hill and make it pull 4th gear from 30-60 and even use 5th at 60 keeping my foot hard down. The turbo whistles nicely (no odd sounds) and it NEVER cuts out. Now if the car is run for 20 miles at 70mph, then left for 1.5 hours, then taken up a hill and carefully accelerated, the temp gauge showing 3/4 warm, it appears sometimes to fluff(hesitate) very very slightly and then off goes the power. When I drive round town again at this temperature I will occasionally get a slight hesitation (not misfire) when accelerating. Its ony momentary and when lightly accelerating, when it begins to hesitate I can accelerate hard and car will accelerate away with no hesitation or fluffing whatsoever. So this has be baffled, it may sound daft but the turbo appears to cut out when the engine is at a particular temperature(3/4 warm) and in all instances going uphill into a left hand turn (Shallow). What to check,where to start! Thanks

The wipers on my 2003 Sharan work 100%, there is no judder, delay in working etc but every so often there is a clunk sound about 2 seconds after they have parked. If I then WD40 all the mechanism joints the clunk goes away! not to return for months. Anyone else experienced similar noises

Yup fully agree, fitted VW plug

Thanks for the response Bigjeese, do these drains ever need clearing out?

Hi, Is there a drain that takes water from the air con inside the car to the outside, if there is, is it possible for it to become blocked and need clearing out. When I ran my Fiat Ulysse I used to get a stream of water under the car when the air con was on, not so with my 2003 tdi Sharan. thanks

Hi, Is it an easy job to change the steering wheel on a MK11 Sharan, mine has now worn away to the point where although the car is immaculate inside and out the wheel makes it look a real wreck. I have seen them advertised on e-bay. Any advice/warning about buying a second hand steering wheel appreciated. Thanks Ps I do not intend to replace the air bag as this is in perfect order.

Hi, Was in the same position as you : Saved me a potential fortune Just change it, perhaps ask VW how much as believe it or not they are cheaper than ford for rather a lot of things for the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra! Had my 2003 Sharan 1.9 tdi done at the main VW agent cost

Thanks strauf for the clarification Is there a problem with the VW part, am I correct to suspect that the original type will slowly fill with water and this eventually begins to mix with the diesel going to the injectors? eg diesel water mix = lumpy running Thanks

Yup its the right part 7MO127 401 A If you check TKpeter Aug 29 2006, 13:37:31 it is identified in this list, and its what on the box VW gave me. Conclusion; There is no water drain on the fuel filter.

Hmm Methinks are we discussing the same thing here? The fuel filter on a 1.9tdi 2003 Sharan is sited on the right hand end of the engine (opposite the pulleys) at the back effectively looking at it you have the battery on your right and the engine on your left. The part is not Bosch but it has the VW stamped on it in big letters. The new filter is a solid can, looks like an inverted oil filter, with 1 hole and 2 male pipes at the top. There is no wheel, or drain of any sort. The part is a genuine VW stock item. Is there another filter I should know about?

Hi again, Yup there are three pipes (1.9tdi 2003 Sharan), I have a new filter from main agent and there is no sign of any drain nor is there one on the one fitted to the car presently (again an original VW part). On top of the filter are 3 pipe outlets that the fuel lines attach to, one is clipped down, the others have a clip and are push fit/clip only. Perhaps the filter differs on other versions. Will post back when job done!

Hi, I have read a few threads on replacing the fuel filter but I have the following questions. On a 1.9 Td1 Sharan 2003 Is the system under any sort of pressure and do you need to allow to discharge before removing any of the 3 pipes (especially the one with the clip as this is almost certainly the fuel feed from the tank), another is a return to the tank (i presume), and the third is (feed to injectors again this is a guess) It was mentioned in a thread that the new filter needed filling with diesel, is this absolutely necessary, never done this before with a petrol fuel injection system. On my old Ulysse there used to be a water drain! to remove water filtered out of the diesel, as there is no such beastie on the Sharan am I to believe that the filter just slowly fills with water and hey preso bad running occurs eventually as you are effectively trying to run a car on water with a bit of diesel in it! many thanks in advance

Hi, Thanks again for your replies, however I have checked under all front seats and they are bone dry but let me elaborate on my problem. The car in the morning points down our drive, which is sloped downhill. The windscreen is misted up but all other windows are clear, not a trace of mist/condensation etc. Turn on fan to No 4 and wait about 10 minutes to clear! Just how much air should be felt blowing up to the windscreen on fan pos 4, I can feel airflow but its not exactly blow you away force?

Thanks for your replies, Heated windscreen! this is a VW so no toys such as heated windscreen, car is perfectly dry inside, perhaps ill get the ir con re-gassed see if it sorts it out! Rear aux heater works fine, fires up below 10oC but the run is so short (under 2 miles) it never gets chance to warm up.