Charlie

Have a look at witter towbars, they don't require a bumper cut. Does your car have parking sensors, if so the cheaper flange type towbar may interfere with them. I

Why not return the kit and buy the correct one? If you splice the cables you will require a by-pass relay or you will have problems with your bulb failure system. Using a by-pass relay you will have to put up will the buzzer, the power for trailer socket lights is taken from another live via the by-pass relay and not the cars lighting circuits(only a signal feed is taken from the cars circuits) thus unable to detect the extra load for the dash warning light www.toys4cars.co.uk do a kit for 7pins plus reverse light prep,

Search ford galaxy bumper strip on ebay now, they end on 4th sept I found some in Richmond, Surrey, United Kingdom. They look like the ones that are normally available from Germany

Weeks of being fobbed off by the local independent garage where a bought the galaxy, and 4 re-gasses and leak tests down the line or so they tell me! Still no parts replaced. A/c still not working as it should, cooling output very poor, flashing screen, no water under car and then on hot days the a/c clutch would kick in and out every 5secs. There is also an a/c pressure switch intermittent fault code present. I have a friend who works at a local auto centre so I went for a second opinion. They plugged in the machine, removed the gas (500grams) and put it on vac for about 1hr15m. They then re-gassed to 700+50grams as per spec on sticker (single evaporator Mk2) they also added a die (no evidence of this on the nipple from last time) and leak check with a light, none visible. I stood and watched the full process. Pressures in system as follows, Low side 30psi / High side 220psi. A/c temp down at 4.5 deg after 10mins centre vent (ambient 19 deg) and a pool of water under the car. The fault code was still present at this point as they couldn

The problem is still there! I removed the form soundproofing from around the engine, cleaned all around the area and then packed a piece if white rag next to the egr valve hole. There is only a very small amount of oil coming out of the hole, it just looks worse when left to drip. So due to cost I haven't done anything. I was told the valve is not serviceable so not looked into removing and repairing

Try removing the small piece of carpet under the driver

I spotted the 12n/12s harness when I was pricing the 12n harness at Fords, When I found out it was available I bought it via an online ford parts company (cheaper) The kit is very flexible for the different type of setup that a customer may require, i.e. change in fridge wiring for newer caravans etc... The socket is not pre-wired for this propose You still require a relay of your choice, I also used a smart relay (doing away with the need for the ignition feed). There's a cable provided at the end of loom in the left-hand side where the relay connects, 12v supply is required from the battery, another 12v supply is picked up from the boot socket for the 12v permanent (pin 4)

If the "Visual dash warning light" works in conjunction with your trailer/caravan indicators, there is no need for "Audible warning buzzer" By law you only need one or the other

There must be more than one type genuine wiring kit available for the tow bar wiring as mine doesn

Tim-spam Is this for later galaxys? the 12N loom i've just fitted (Genuine Ford) to a 2003 galaxy still required the light activating as per the instructions supplied with the kit

The genuine ford wiring kit works by unplugging the loom from both back light clusters and there are also some sockets right down at the bottom under the right rear light cluster which unplug. The tow bar loom then plugs into these sockets creating a loop through for your towing socket The 12n socket is also pre-wired and plugs straight into the loom It

Taygarth - the visual warning light for the towbar is located in the rev counter above the airbag warning light, Its two arrows with a one in the middle It works by sensing the extra current load on the flasher circuit when a trailer is plugged in, but only if wired correctly. I suspect your car will be wired with by-pass relay (due to the bulb failure system) which only picks up power to switch a relay from the flasher circuit and the main current taken from another live feed. I used a genuine wiring kit which just plugs into the the wiring loom and then had to reprogram the central electrics module with vagcom to make the light flash, have a read at the topic i started on towbar wiring

If you have a warning light on the dash when you first start up (a bulb shape with a exclamation mark in the middle) which goes out when you first press the brake pedal this means you have the "Bulb Failure System" if not you should be OK

That (w30) kit will work, it uses

Hi Danny, I've just tried switching the keypad between my 2 cars and both work OK, both cars have same radio but 3 years age difference Do you know anyone with same radio? Then you could test to find out if it

Have a look at this article "Cleaning turbo to release the VNT mechanism" Its located in the "Useful External Links" part of the Technical Section Part 2 of the article explains the 2 different ways of removing the turbo

Hi All, We've just had our first trip out towing with the Galaxy to the Camping & Caravanning Club Site, Scarborough (nice site) The Galaxy towed very well even on all the hills and there's plenty of them travelling from Leyland to Scarborough!! Its uphill or downhill all the way (a good test) The caravan is a 1999 Lunar Solar524, MTPLM 1300KG, We've had it from 2 year old, end bathroom layout will never go back to side layout I've even managed to sort the "Visual dash warning light" after fitting the towbar myself, with help from the forum. The outfit was that steady on the road, the wife is even thinking of trying her hand at towing!!

When I looked at my car before buying 4 week ago NO A/C !! Flashing screen. The dealer sorted it, working fine after a regas Been on school run today and A/C not working again! but no flashing screen this time? Car going back Monday

Ok.... An update on "Visual Warning Light" dave_m received my email after all and replied earlier today and with his help i've sorted the problem. Thanks dave Using VAG COM my software code was 04097, changed it to 04105 and all working spot on Many thanks for all your help

Bleeno, do you know what has to changed with VAG COM?

Does anyone have information to enable the "Dash Warning Light" for use when towing? I've fitted a 12n/12s genuine ford wiring kit and all works well apart from the visual warning Different posts say it's something to do with "Central Electrics Module 9" but what do I need to change? Having done so searching, dave m has enabled his but I can't contact him as a new member (email disabled)

Has anyone had problems with oil leaking from a weep hole in the front side of what i believe to be the EGR Valve, Its located on the back side of the engine behind the oil filler cap, in the pipe that runs up from the intercooler on the right (looking from the front). I've removed the intercooler pipes to see if there was any build up of oil at the low point but there is only a light covering on the inside of the pipes which is normal. The car has covered 67,000 miles and is starting and running very well without excessive amounts of smoke even under load (Towing) 2003 1.9 TDI PD 115 The oil has soaked into the lump of sponge around the head and has run down the back of the engine just reaching the under tray An independant garage has told me to look at the seals in the EGR valve as the car is running well and not smoking so would not suspect the turbo seals. Can the EGR Valve Seals be changed or is it a new unit?

Witty...I'm new to the forum and Galaxy ownership, so please bear with me. I've just fitted a Witter towbar to my 2003 Galaxy, Part number F102Q Quantum Detachable. It looks like you have the main bar of the same towbar If it was a fixed towbar your missing the flanged/swan neck and spacers or the receptor/socket and detachable towball of a detachable system The lower hole is just for a breakaway cable I've tried to add an image so you can compare, but can't get it to work