graemer

It is attached using a clip - you can see it beside the old sensor in the picture...if it is inserted from the top then it should be easy to pull out - if it is inserted from below then it is a sod as you have to get you hand round and underneath - I managed to use the blade of a screwdriver to lever the clip out. Once out, the sensor simply pulls out of the 'orifice' - it may leave the 'o' ring behind - suggest you use your finger to pull it out to ensure it is fitted correctly when putting back - simply push sensor home and fit clip back on. If clips fits then sensor is securely home and should be leak free! I left the wire connector on until I had the sensor out as it is easier then to remove it.

I finally managed to replace the sensor this w/e - photo attached (I hope!) showing where it is - I had to use a mirror as the sensor is behind the head below the air pump on the right hand side of the engine. It is a sod to get to - had to remove the inter-cooler top hose and move the fuel filter to allow me to get my hand down behind, but still v.difficult. Made sure I bought a new 'o'ring with it and all fitted back together fine. Ran it around this afternoon and temp needle now works and high idle speed and revving when starting has gone - yippeee! Oh - car was parked facing down hill on my drive and I still lost a fair bit of coolant when I took the sensor out - planned to replace the coolant anyway as it is now 6 years old , so this was not a loss but I wanted to see for interest how much would come out.

I'd put money on the temp sender - mine is doing it too, been doing so for ages. Finally ordered new sender, 'o' ring and clip from Fords -will fit at the w/e. I'll let you know how I get on - have put a post on here to ask if anyone has done the job but no answers!

Can anyone tell me how to replace the water temp sensor - I have found it at the back of the engine but it is v.difficult to see; got my hand behind but cannot even get the electrical connector off. Does the sensor simply pull out or is there some kind of clip keeping it in? Thanks.

Got it! Use spanner on the tooth at the top to pull it round to allow you to insert the drill bit to lock it.

Can anyone tell me how you use a spanner to move the tensioner to allow belt removal - mine is the TDI automatic tensioner. Can't see how you can get purchase on it to move enough to align the holes and insert a drill bit to lock it?

My Galaxy is now 5 years old - air compressor clutch has failed. Compressor was starting to give some problems so a new one it is :P. According to my A/C guy this is not bad for 80,000 miles. Still very disappointing and bl??dy expensive.

Ah - forgot to mention that the wife is the main driver - perhaps this is the problem!! Apologies to all ladies out there, not what you think; my wife is a very competant and quick driver; on her own she probably gives the car a good thrashing!!

My model is slightly different to the one advertised :(. HELP!! Have checked the high pressure switch and this is not the cause of the supply to the clutch remaining on even when ignition turned off. Have pulled all the connectors out of the main junction box on the driver's side and still power! Does anyone have an idea where this baby is getting its power from - the wiring diagrams on the TIS point to a main relay on the central juntion box - from what I can see this powers the clutch so is likely to be the cuplrit but cannot understand why when I disconnect the connectors from the junction box power is stil there. I must be missing something??

My last set lasted one year only, about 8,000 miles. Me thinks someone is making alot of money out of these - they are definately not made to last. Replaced the front suspension on my stag last month - the car is 30 years old and some of the components were original - the shocks still passed the bounce test; amazing, but I thought it better to change them anyway. Took them apart and they are very well engineered - you can take the shocks apart and the oil inside and seals were still in great condition. Wonder how long before I have to do the same on my Galaxy.

I have contacted Coolcar who were the cheapest on the web but the actual price quoted incl VAT and delivery is

Thanks Guys - you have saved me close to a ton already with these links - fantastic! Either my local guy can match it or I'll buy the compressor from one of these sites and he can fit it. Cheers :blink:

Thanks - had a look but my compressor is model 1226, this one is 1162! Why do they all have to be different - don't answer that!! I'll check them out to see if they can get my model or this one will fit as a 2 year guarantee is very good.

You will have fun with this - my wife now appreciates my dexterity and ability in the dark! I have the modern car design to thank for this. One of my other cars is a stag and whilst it is always needing something done it is so easy to get to stuff - modern cars are a complete nightmare; why can't they just add a few inches to make some room. Guess it is like the M25, whatever you add will be filled!!

Thanks for the information - will have a look at the w/e. Once I have sorted the electrical side can get a new compressor fitted :unsure: . Have been quoted 280 + VAT for a new one; does anyone know of a cheaper source? I have heard of reconditioned for 240+VAT but this is the cheapest I have seen.

Wow - thanks for a prompt response; will have a look at the week end, pressure switch does look like a likely candidate. A complete sod if this little device has cost me my compressor. Do you know how I can access the central junction box to check the relay as well? PS Added my car details in signature as suggested - thanks.

Had system re-gassed - was working, now not! Should have left alone or is this a coincidence? Compressor clutch is not working. I have checked the connector and find there is power to the clutch; however the power is on all the time! Even with the ignition off there is +10v at the clutch. There must be a fault up the line as I would only expect power when the ignition is on?? I am wondering if this is why my clutch is knackered i.e. being engaged most of the time - what can cause this - could it be the air con relay? I need to test it but cannot see how to get to it - understand it is on the central junction box but cannot see how to get to it - can anyone tell me how you do? Has anyone out there had the same problem where there is constant power to the compressor clutch? Thanks.

Mine is green too - got a replacement as my A/c works on settings 1 & 2 but no blower, and blower works on 3&4 but no A/c! Unfortuantely, has made no difference but I notice it is blue not green. Could it be the wrong part - how many different types are there!? Tried cleaning the switch contacts as suggested in another thread but no joy - also confirmed that A/c light (& fans) does not come on when resister pack disconnected suggesting that the resister pack is related to A/c fans. Is it likely the blue part is wrong? Thanks.

Even though my wipers still managed to get across the screen, when I took the linkage off one of the spindles was seized solid and I needed to add some heat to it to get it to shift. You might get away without heat but do not hit it too hard and make sure you have the nut back on to prevent damage to the threads!

Has anyone got any recommendations for fitted seat covers? Two dogs and 3 children are taking their toll! I did find one company but they wanted over

Hi, I had trobule with my MAF but could not be sure at the time as disconnecting it made a big difference to performance so appeared to be OK. After checking other things like connections to turbo etc I decided to take the plunge and buy a new MAF from eBay - fantastic. The latest ones are a different design and I had my performance back - I soon realised that the car did lack oomph when overtaking at 50-60 and trying to accelerate up hills was poor. The final straw was being overtaken buy a gas munching 4x4 which before I had been able to pass with ease. Now performance is back...can't say this is your trouble but worth the money as it will fail ultimately, just a matter of time.

I have the 115 1.9TDi and had been noticing a loss of power at higher revs over a year or so - sometimes it did not seem too bad, other times it would not accelerate over 60 on a slight incline. I had tried disconnecting MAF and it DID make a difference so I was looking for other reasons e.g. fuel filter, turbo etc. Finally, thought what the hell and bought a new MAF from eBay - WOW! Problem immediately solved - full acceleration back just like when it was new. If you are experiencing poor acceleration at higher speeds it could well be the MAF - taking off from rest was always OK, it is when trying to pass lorries at 60 MPH that I found the car was becoming dangerous! They have redesigned the MAF so hopefully this one will last longer. It was

it has gone very quiet out there - is there really no one else who has experienced this high rev starting problem?

Mine does exactly the same - been doing it for a while. I have also noticed a drop in performance, not sure if this is related - have read the threads on the MAF but disconnecting makes it worse so assume MAF is OK? Am wondering if performance loss is related to the turbo (some interesting threads on vacuum control etc). Sometimes almost seems OK but then when accelerate up hill it is definately not right.

Buy a new switch!! Same happened to me - removed switch and got plunger working. Refitted and only high level brake light was working. Don't waste any more of your valuable time- buy the switch and I am sure you will find like me that all works again. Rubbish parts I'm afraid all trying to do several jobs at once.