geoffc

Check the door for broken insulation/shorting wires inside the rubber gaiter

Glad to see the bit from the TV licensing website...had I seen that a few months ago, the TV would have been history!! The wording on the licence renewal is downright misleading. (by omission)

I fix tvs etc for a living....dont have any kids here to complicate the viewing choices.....but I so rarely have tv on, cos the programming is rubbish for the most part......When the tv licence was due for renewal, I did really seriously consider not doing so. Apparently if one owns a mobile phone or has an internet connection, one needs a licence! I would say, if you want to watch tv on a phone.....well ya neeed to get a life!! Geoff

Just to prove/disprove the starter motor diagnosis....disconnect the temperature sensor, when engine hot. Starting will now be instantaneous! If engine now starts immediately, reconnect the temperature sensor. Now check cranking speed via rev counter. Needs to be over 250rpm, otherwise no hot start. (for first 10 seconds) My own car cranked at 240 rpm! Dont run engine for long with the temperature sensor disconnected, as fuel consumption will be high! My local VW dealer solves the problem, by recoding the ECU as an automatic! Geoff

Had exactly same problen with my Sharan.....only affects 1999 model year, AFN 110bhp engine. If your car has this engine, the problem is the starter motor! What I did, to fix it was, replaced the brushes...did help a bit. Real cure is a brand new motor....revised part number. Fairly expensive, so I simply ignored it in the end. Dont worry, the engine always will start after 10 seconds of cranking. Starting will be instant when cold. Geoff

I would say VW are the most likely to have stock....at least the fusebox in not expensive! If the cable has been over heated at the end, it will be better to replace the entire cable. The old cable, if repaired, will most likely overheat again.

Had a really bad vibration, some years ago in a van.....was so bad that the rear tail lights all failed. Turned out to be broken steel belting in the side wall of obe of the rear tyres!

I too have a similar turbo related noise! I have noticed that I heard a slight "plop" sound just as the turbo was nearly stopped.....sounded like a valve closing, then the turbo noise abruptly stopped too. Has anyone had any success with a fix?

Amen!!

Seems to just run down the bulkhead....stains on my Sharan bulkhead would support this theory!

Bit dodgy spraying anything into the air intake on a diesel. I had a similar problem with a recently bought Sharan MK2.....fixed it by filling tank half full, then adding a full can of Forte injector cleaner to the fuel. Took the car on a high speed run, about 250 miles, no turbo problems now!

Hi Everyone! I havnt posted here for some time.....mainly because the Sharan was going fine. Have recently bought a 2001 Sharan MK2, one problem I have with it is the central computer display in the dash occasionally appears darker at the left hand side of the display. The display only goes dark at the left side, when the interior of the car is hot. Has anyone ever had the instrument panel apart.....I dont want to do any damage!! Geoff

Many thanks guys, for your replies.....will have a go at that later tonight! Thanks, Geoff.

Recently I have noticed a hissing sound coming from the air recirculation button/fan switch. When the recirculation button is depressed (amber led lit), the hissing sound is louder. Sounds like a leaking vacuum pipe......how does one get the panel out to investigate??

Food for thought......am thinking of a new audi A5, automotive porn.....need a cold shower. Absolutely nothin wrong with ma Golf!! Geoff

Easy to tell the two types apart! The infra red remote has a small hole at the front (next to the blade) an infra red led is visible through this. The radio type is identical, apart from having no hole at the front of the remote. The infra red remote can be tested by pointing at a webcam or digital camera....flashes will be visable from the infra red led. when a button is pressed. Hope this helps, Geoff

I currently have a 97 GLX, with remote central locking.......its infra red, not very good, but it is remote!! Geoff

I was quoted

When you replaced your starter motor, was the replacement exactly identical? What I mean is, were the Bosch part numbers the same on both units? Its not uncommon, if there is a problem with a particular part, to have VW supply an upgraded replacement....but with a new part number! I would bet your cranking speed is higher with the new unit....needs to be over 250rpm when hot, otherwise engine wont start. Will try and have a chat with the local VW parts dept tomorrow, they are normally extremely helpful. Geoff

Sounds like exactly the same problem as I have...Ur cold starting is ok because at cold , the engine rpm are not monitored by the ecu....I'll bet ur engine cranking speed is just under 250rpm when hot!! Will contact my main dealer next week when he reopens, re possible software fix.... is ur vehicle 1999 model year??BTW disconnecting the temp sensor fools the ECU into the cold start routine!...fuel consumption will be quite high...the new current genuine VW temp sensor is coded with a blue band....the old one was coded yellow Geoff

Thank god he's normal!!.....Is this a freudian slip??

Have been looking at the TDI forum.....Our American cousins are having similar problems, to be exact....23 pages of them, but only with 1999 model year 1.9 litre 81Kw Diesels (AFN etc)...they have cured the problem in three ways. Some have replaced the engine earthing cabling with heavier stuff....One replaced the starter motor with a different model, others have had the ECU reflashed with different software. The reason the engine starts ok when cold, is because when the coolant temperature sensor is indicating to the ECU that the temperature is low, the injectors inject fuel....immediately the engine starts to crank. When hot however, the ECU does not open the injectors unless the cranking speed is over 250rpm. Looking at my rev counter (not that accurate in sure) im getting a reading about 200rpm cranking when hot! A useful bit of info...the battery leads should have a voltage drop of about 250mV per lead....or 0.5volt drop at the starter motor. I havnt been able to test the leads yet, needs two people!! Will have a chat with my local VW agent after the hols....more than likely there is an official software fix for it, as it affects 1999 Audi A4, VW Golf, Passat etc

According to the varta website....I may have the wrong battery fitted. The Halfords Calcium requires a charging voltage of 14.8.... the Sharan delivers 14.2....cranking speed is a bit low, will purchase a standard lead acid type 90 amp hr etc and see what happens. G

Top marks there!! Just ran out and checked....bolt sheared!! No other damage done...happened at about 15mph, and about 40 yards from front gate! Phew thats a bit of a relief!! Geoff