turk90210

from your description its confirmed - intake air temperature sensor

HI All just wondering if anyone has had any dealings with UK Assistance body repairers (Direct Line's own repairers I believe) in Salford Manchester I Wont bore you all with the details but wife got hit by chap failing to stop at a give way he accepted full responsability and his insurers were Direct line. They took it away to repair. The repairers have tried to deliver it back twice now supposidly repaired but I have refused point blank as their idea of a repair is abismal. Its got to the point that i have just fired a 4 page letter to Direct Line with the outstanding faults but have yet to hear back from them. It had more damage on it after repair than before (crushed cills rear bumper damaged aaaaahhhhhhhhhh) I wouldnt mind but I told them on the 1st inspection of outstanding faults but they still tried to give it back 2nd time without rectifying the same faults (the word muppets springs to mind) The only consolation in all this is that they are paying for a chrysler grand voyager for me to drive round in (7 weeks so far) but god its thirsty compared to the Gal and its a diesel Oh nearly forgot my wife an youngest lad are ok

well you have just answered some of the questions I was typing,if it was a complete loss of power it would indicate a loss of electrics or fuel, the power steering going heavy will have been because of the lack of engine, the engine drives the power steering pump via the fan belt. I would think that it would be to do with an electrical fault somewhere but you would need to do some homework ,i.e do you have a spark when it happens is there power to the coil ect , which all depends on how mechanically minded you are Not sure if the sharan has one but the vw's suffer from a main power relay failing which can cause intermittant problems with some of the electrics failing that are you in any breakdown club that might be ablt to help diagnose it to at least give you a start on where the problem might lie then we might be able to help better

turvey, I think you miss understand me, most generic obd readers wont link into a cars diagnostics unless the warning light is on, what you have ordered off flea bay works with version 409 of VAG.Com which was written for vw cars and as your car is vag based it will work fine so you havn't really wasted your money I have a similar set up and a Ford Galaxy and I can link into all of my car without any problems. Infact this was the only way I could find out about my overboost problem as the generic obd I use at work said there was no fault If you download version 409 off the ross tech web site you can try it first to make sure it works and you can link in ok, the only down side is when the software is unregistered you wont have full functuality of the software. If it links in ok you can then register it and have a fully functioning diagnostics on your car I got drivers with my lead which emulate a serial port even though it is a usb lead so make sure you down load the serial and usb versions of vag.com and try them both

you will find the red light on the door card flashing rapidly is to do with the alarm/immobilizer and will flash if you turn the ignition off/on too quickly poss as it has been unable to do its self test As regarding the turbo tripping out (limp mode) there are usually no warning lights when it happens but cycling the ignition off/on clears the fault but the problem will be stored in the ecu memory and only diagnostic's like vag.com will be able to access it, most generic readers wont be able to tell you the fault. For reference the engine management light is the glow plug light, if this isn't on then most generic obd readers are a waste of time as they wont link into the system

you might find that if the beeping was after you had been turning it over for a while it will be a audible warning of low oil pressure which is normal if it wouldnt start but continued cranking As regards the none starting or poor starting, have you done any fuel related maintanence as i wonder if it might be related to a possible air lock in the fuel lines. If air had managed to get into the system it would take a while to purge it out before starting or What are your glow plugs like, it shouldnt really need them unless the temp drops low enough but you never know

sorry guys but the plugs have been standardized on all cars but as this vehicle is a v6 FORD engine vag.com will NOT communicate with the engine ecu as it will only connect to what is vw based eg abs instruments parking sensors ect oh and the diesel engine of course (vw 1.9 engine) you can also use version 409 but as it is a 3rd party lead you have to get the serial version of the software and if the lead is a usb lead the drivers for the lead to emulate ( i think that is what it is called ) the serial connection As for engine faults for any of the Ford petrol engines you will need a generic obd reader or ford specific if you pm me with your email addy i can email the drivers i got with my 3rd party lead but as i have said it wont connect to the engine ecu

the easiest way round this would be to use a circuit tester or a multimeter and on the original plug locate the 3 main wires that the cd player will need ie perm live- poss red or red with brown trace so with keys in hand check the plug for a perm live feed ignition live-poss yellow turn ignition on or turn to 1st position and now check for a feed , to check if it is actually the ignition live turn the key off and make sure you actually take the key out of the ignition if the feed goes there is your ignition live feed and finally the Earth - usually a thicker brown wire Once you have identified these wires you can then connect them accordingly to the cd player as per the wiring instructions as these are the main wires that it needs to work the other connections it might have vary according to the spec of sony unit you have ie a feed from the lights to illuminate the unit when the lights are on telephone mute wire to link into your hands free kit (if fitted) electric aerial-which you dont have anyway amp power if you have a seperate amp somewhere ect ect ect but as i have said the 3 above are the basic wires it needs to work if you need a more detailed answer try posting a picture of the original plug and the extra leads you have bought so we can see it and also what unit you are trying to fit and what the wiring instructions say the more info you can give the better the answer will be I have just had a similar problem to yours but on a vw t4 van and a clarion unit, in the end I had to identify the 3 wires as above as no matter which way round i had the red/yellow it kept loosing the stations as the perm live was not where it should be to keep the memory, it was also a little more confusing as the instructions specifically said on vw models i had to move the fuse on the back of the cd unit to a different position for it to work (there were 2 positions for the fuse to go in depending on what car it was being fitted to) but it still wouldn't work

obd II as it is known is a standard with all manufacturers after 2001/petrol 2005 /diesel engines and certain pins on the diagnostic plug have to be the same for all to allow the powers that be if needed to check up on emissions ect it is through the same pins that the generic obdII scanners use but it can only tell you a limited amount of information ie certain engine related problems. The dedicated software if affordable is the better way to go if you want to go deeper and for the diesel galaxy that would commonly be vag.com as it is basically a vdub with a ford badge the software can be d/loaded from www.ross-tech.com on a try first to see if it can connect before registering, they also do the leads but the expence is your choice however 3rd party leads can be bought from ebay but will only work with version 409 vag.com(serial connection) so it allows for a cheaper alternative but can be a bit flake in connecting best thing to do would be to read up on it, have a look at the web site or just stick in a search for vag.com then make your mind up from there

well for what its worth I would get a copy of vag.com and a lead and do a scan with that, the problem with generic obd2 scanners is that they wont always pick up the fault codes, Ive done the same with mine. my generic had all the airbags,transmission ect but showed no faults, I obtained vag.com and a lead and did a scan and got 4 faults with the same software you can track the actual and requested reading of the maf to find out if its related to a faulty unit aswell as it wont show up as a fault code unless the wires are disconnected some how

according to autodata your relay for the wipers is No 8 (99. in your picture) and there are 3 fuses on the wiper cicuit F4-20amp-rear wiper F5-10amp-washer jet heater if fitted F24-30amp-power to relay for front wipers hope this helps

oops sorry forgot to add the link try this http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/sho...d.php?p=1558469

well I didnt realise how difficult getting a picture would be but here is a link to a vx forum with some pictures for you and an idea of how to clean, if you still have problems follow the air trunking from the filter to the engine, remove the black trunking and take a picture of that area and post it then hopefully i can tell you better from that you should get a rough idea of the area Im talking about when you look at the vaux forum picture of the ecotec engine

think you might find that the Vectra is a fuel injection system and doesnt have a carb, it will still have a throttle flap but dont bother , you will probably find that there is an idle speed control valve on the side of what people think is a carb which gets clogged up usually cleaning it out cures the problem or at worse a new valve Ill have a look through some of my old stuff and see if there are any pictures for you to identify it with

from the description you give ""swtiches off and back on again it continues to run fine"" indicates as previously said "limp home mode" This however can be caused by a few different things and a scan will be the only sure way to tell you what is causing it until then it is pure guess work Turbo overboost is a problem which crops up regular and can be the vnt turbo vanes sticking (common reported fault) Im sure there are a few of us which could give you more faults as to what it could be but as I have said it is at this stage purely guess work If you updated your profile or tell us what area you live maybe someone could scan it for you if they were close by

well if the car is original and no one has messed about with the tdi badge on the rear you could sometimes tell just by looking at that a plain chromed tdi badge was a 90 a red outlined tdi badge was a 110

seems no one else wants to break the bad news to you but yes its totally bad, caput, creamed ect, ect, ect don't want to sound off with you (cant spell sarcastic, or can I) but how do you expect us to tell you if a noise sounds bad or not eeeeerrrrrrrrr best advice would be to get some one who knows engines to listen to it and give you his or her opinion then post back or even an idea of what area it is coming from and is it an actual tapping noise

out of interest are you still getting the missfire in the mornings for a few seconds after a run the night before. I have been following this to a certain extent as to me it sounds like a head gasket still or some sort of combustion leak into the cooling system. I have seen personally a leaking head gasket where the car had a missfire for 5-10 seconds in the morning only to clear itself then for the rest of the day be totally fine and all the checks that can be done(pressure test, combustion gas leak all be ok) I eventually found the problem when i had it overnight, i removed the plugs 1st thing then cranked it over and found water in the cylinder which proved water was getting into the cylinders I have also had a transit having similar problems, (o/heating under load)but never loosing water, powers to be over-ruled me and had me fit thermostat, radiator ect (all the usual stuff bit no -one listened to me regarding getting the head taken off ) they even got me to leave the stat out which improved it very slightly but never cured it. Alas the van got sent to the auction in the end so never did get to find the true cause but im sure taking off the head would have revealed all

well its a welcome from me sorry dont envy you too much but from what you are describing you have a major short circuit to your ignition side and a swimming pool does spring to mind for me as well especially if it has been raining heavily in your area otherwise if all dry check out the loom where it passes through the body to the drivers door as this seems to have some bearing on the matter ""The problem is this; when I stop the car and turn off the ignition, the engine continues to run perfectly normally. If I open the driver door the engine stops. If I then close the driver door usually all the dashboard lights come on but the engine will not start, as if the imobiliser is in operation. If I then lock the car from the outside usually everything returns to normal, until the next time. Sometimes, however, when I lock the door the dashboard lights come on as if I have inserted the ignition key and I have to open & close the door and try locking it again"" try and think logically about what has an effect on what is happening and check out accordingly sorry cant be of any more help but modern cars and wiring faults are/can be a pain to diagnose as alot of systems are be interlinked and sometimes send you off in the wrong direction,I recently had a vw transporter which had fuses blowing on the reverse lights,engine management light flashing and no elec mirrors fault was traced too the wiring to the drivers door shorting out. 3 seperate circuits but all linked via the fuse which was not in the handbook or fusebox lid description

my best advise would be to clean off the engine and start from scratch, the oil could be coming from a few things so not wanting to frighten you just clean it all off and keep i close eye on it and then post back and if poss take some piccies

well I have to say I agree entirely with seatkid on this "No. Safety critical items need to come from known sources. Chances are that the Ebay supplier is supplying cheap Chinese parts (otherwise he would have said if it was Bosch etc.) Likely to wear quickly and or warp IMO a false economy with questionable safety." if you know the E'Bayer supplies good stuff then ok if not STAY CLEAR "If you don't know about brake nipples, you shouldnt be changing your brakes yourself. Some on the job training with an "expert" is advisable before doing safety critical jobs." DEFFO here is a picture of the consequenses when you dont know what you are doing and yes this was a actual brake disc the guy thought he knew what he was doing AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

I've seen lots of early Gal's where the windows and alarms have been working strangley , usually turned out to be water getting into car and flooding the control units which could be behind the dash or commonly under 1 of the front seats (usually pass seat). Alot of the leaks were traced to the drain tubes being blocked with leaves or debris just under where the pollen filter is but on both sides, this would lead to water collecting and getting into the car and flooding it. Although not always noticable when looking as there is alot of sound deadening/insulation under the carpet but worth a check. Cant say I have seen it on the MK2's though but it might be worth checking for water leaking into the car if it happened on a rainy day as it seems too coincidental (think the spelling is right)

as mum says it will be the bottom mounting that attatches to the gearbox, you will probably find the bolt is snapped, usually quite easy to do once the splash guard is moved

Hi Trucker you can check your sensors with your multimeter using 2 scales only but as someone has mentioned you either need to know the spec values or test along side a known good sensor, you can use the resistace - ohms-upsidedown horseshoe (whatever you want to call it) scale, starting on the highest scale then working down until you get a reading, and also the AC voltage scale (with the sensor unplugged) but here lies the problem,you probe onto the connectors and spin the wheel which should give you a rising AC voltage ,but you need to spin at a set rpm on both new and old sensors to get an accurate reading. (basically an inductive sensor has a magnetic field at the tip where it meets the castle-ated collar as the castle's pass through the magnetic field they break the field which produces AC volts, depending on how fast they pass depends on how much /many volts it produces) Without wanting to contradict anyone on their good advice as it may well work but The music symbol is for continuity and is usually on 1 scale only on the ohms (I use 2 meters 1 has it on the 100 range,the other on the 200 range) so any resistance below this range and you will get the tone, anything above and it will just show as a resistance value The diode check is usually a arrow head facing the top of a T and is used for just that, checking diodes, but no doubt people have found other uses for it The multimeter is a great diagnostic tool but its understanding what the readings mean and what you would expect from the things that you are checking where the problems lie Getting back to the original problem of the abs sensor it would be alot easier to get someone to scan it for you as you can see from above hope this helps

NNNNNOOOOOOO dont use emetal the nut with the teeth is to tension the belt only alot of the vw range use this set up the small 13mm bolt in the middle of the toothed one is the bolt that actually secures the pump. Its very common to find the toothed nut worn as people keep moving it till the teeth wear off thinking its the securing nut it is made of softer metal compared to the arm check the tightness of the centre bolt(13mm)this is what secures the pump/adjustment. If its loose but the pump wont move then the pivoting bolts higher up are tight and need loosening before adjustment can take place. its hard to explain where they are but basically scoure all the 13mm bolts around the pump and loosen them all