turk90210

Thats a very good question, a similar thing I noticed was I was looking for a 40 watt halogen bulb for a office lamp, found the usual 25watt ect but could only find 42 watt bulbs for the lamp NO 40 watts ?

Sounds like a possible earth problem if you have put all the others back properly? Do you have access to a multimeter and know the basics of how to use it , if so can talk you through a basic test on positive and negative leads which might point you in the right direction

ditto what howey said, but before you part with any hard earned cash, has anyone done a test on the alternator, if so what was the readings as there are other common problems which stop the alternator recharging the battery (ie melted fuse box by battery, loose wiring connections ect). Also can you expand on turning the key nothing but when jump started fires straight away, that in itself sounds like battery/alternator problems but can I ask where the jump leads are connected as it can eliminate certain things and more importantly get the alternator output checked and the associated wiring with a multimeter

hi Rosie well sorry to say but the two codes you have given are nothing like what were use to seeing from either EOBD or vag codes. My best guess would be they are paticular to the diagnostic code reader you used so I would find out what make it is and have a look if they have a web site you can go on to try and decipher

OOps forgot to mention the previous info is if you dont have A/C if it does have A/C then Autodata has it as being blank!

Last time I wired up an alarm with c/locking (was a long time ago) I tapped into the wires for the master solenoid which is usually either front door and piggy backed onto them before they went throught the "A" pillar into the door best check the wiring diagrams in your Haynes manual though. As for the fuse you mention, just checked Autodata and if you pictures are correct then it says it's for the Engine Coolant Blower. That said it also stated the next one, which could be a 40amp fuse is also for the same thing so worth a check, if its working ok then as Radiotwo said some one could have put it back instead of binning it but cant see any harm if you just replace it worst thing that could happen is it will blow again then you know for sure you have a fault somewhere on that circuit

Depending on where you live in the North West (Im south Manchester) I have one you can borrow or you can get one from machine mart http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/laser-4213-alternator-tool-set

The big question here is which engine are we talking about when you say TDi I assume when you are asking about coding you are talking about the later engine (PD )as they have an eletrical connection on them someone could correct me on this as I have never delt with injectors on one of these engine but I dont think you have to code them to the ECU. Im told they are very expensive, are you sure its an injector fault if it is one of these as they suffer from electrical problems to the injector units on the PD engine

Before buying anything check out the wiring to the sensors, I had a similar problem, all sensors were ticking but on further inspection I found a wire had been rubbing through behind rear bumper which I eventually found after pulling the wiring out and having a close inspection. Repaired the wiring and all has been fine

Good picture's phil, the item you ask about is the run on pump for the rear heater but what I would like to know is what is the wet line coming from above and dripping down onto the pump , from the picture it looks like you need to investigate above

wwwwhhhhoooooo stop right now,before you go any further - sorry was getting side tracked with a bit of Meatloaf But seriously before you do go any further, are you saying that you have the correct timing tool for this job. If so why not use it properly along with the right size drill and do the job properly, after all you have taken the time to strip it down. I hear what chrisp is saying and in some circumstances it can work but I personally try and avoid it at all costs, if the correct timing tools are cheap enough why not use them. We all condem garages that do this sort of thing so why encourage it. One slight mistake with the tippex marks and you ruin your engine to the tune of

If your doing alot of town stop/starting driving this could be the normal operation of the electric fan when in traffic. It depends on what you call running warmer/cooler, do you notice a big change or does the needle move just past normal running temp before coming down. If its a big change but your sure its not overheating I would first look at the temp sensor, they are never pinpoint accurate (but we all expect/assume them to be)they are just a guide.

If your doing alot of town stop/starting driving this could be the normal operation of the electric fan when in traffic. It depends on what you call running warmer/cooler, do you notice a big change or does the needle move just past normal running temp before coming down. If its a big change but your sure its not overheating I would first look at the temp sensor, they are never pinpoint accurate (but we all expect/assume them to be)they are just a guide.

I can see where scorpio is coming from but I can also see where the garage is going, did you tell the garage the full story as I would have thought the battery would have been the 1st thing they would have checked You say "you can attempt to start 9 or 10 times without success & then no starter, nothing at all. However when this happens a jump start always works, the car starts instantly, ticks over & drives perfectly......" In this attempt to start the car is the engine/starter turning over fast and just not starting then after the 9/10 attempts the battery goes flat hense the jump start or is it barly turning over? - so as scorpio suggests this could be a battery problem so a test would be in order if nothing else but to confirm its condition and replace if poor BUT You also state "sometimes it needs 1 or 2 attempts to start it because the engine fires but then immediately dies" - now this is a classic sign of the transponder in the key not being recognised so if available I would try the spare key.Or if you havn't got a spare then invest in one as they are always needed What is the light on the door doing when it doesn't start if you find the battery is ok and going off what you have said so far I would be inclined to think Immobilizer, ie key or reciever. Good luck I wouldn't worry about feeling a chump I think we have all been there at some stage (much prefer feeling the mrs though)

Think we need a bit more info/diagnostics here as it could be anything , is fuel pump priming,spark at plugs what is the alarm light doing ect ect also when you say the whole engine please be a bit more precise peoples idea of whole engine differ. I have seen situations where people have got a replacement engine said to be from the same model vehicle(not talking Galaxy here by the way) swopped over the whole lump inc clutch and flywheel, only for the car not to start, various new parts were replaced still wouldn't go. After being scoped and diagnosed properly turned out there were different flywheels fitted on the car, as the old one wasn't used it turned out to be a larger air gap on the flywheel sensor which in turn wouldn't tell the ecu the engine was turning over so non starter, the old flywheel was put back on and first turn of key it started Also something I can't get my head round is this recoding the ecu to the engine. I could be wrong but I am only aware of the key having to be coded to the ecu so if a straight engine swop it wouldn't have needed any sort of recode unless you changed the ECU aswell? and you paid

Sounds like a normal Galaxy then with these faults, Air con, parking sensors ect. back box, cv boot, corroded brake brake lines - unlucky. What is surprising is the spare being the wrong size and them failing it on that, I could be wrong but the spare doesn't come under the MOT does it. If it now does how do alot of the manufacturers get away with a space-saver spare then which looks like a motorbike tyre hhhhmmmmmm interesting

Having never seen an external hard drive but can it not be opened up to get access to the drive itself, am thinking out loud here as have seen hard drive caddies where you put a hard drive in. If so I think you can buy adapters from maplins How badly broken is the usb connection could you not make something up to get it connected on a temp basis to get your info/data off

Hi shanec welcome to the forum please start your own thread with your question but to aid us please update your profile with engine size ect of you Galaxy so we can be more precise with our answers

you say goes flat after 4 weeks, do you mean your not using it in that 4 weeks? with the dark nights coming early it has no-one to love it or comfort it,or gently rub a bit of wax into body to make it feel good (wax on wax off wax on wax off) com'on girl you should know better cars are like women, they need some TLC now and again (sorry just got this picture of Brum with sad looking headlights and under inflated tyres in my mind) Seriously though as Saif states really numerous things it could be, but also if your not running it for 4 weeks it could just be that. All modern cars have various power being drawn from the battery when its not running (ie memory for clock, radio, ECU's) which over a period of time drain the battery. Yes some battery's can cope but others can't. Best thing to do is if your not actually going to use it just start it up and let it idle for 10-15 mins

Well that is a classic charging fault description you have just given Yes it could be an earth wire but commonly the gal has a problem with the main alternator fuse which is in the fuse box just in front of the battery its been covered many times if you do a search under charging . It basically overheats and creates a poor connection then melts the fuse/box try this link http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...&hl=chargin

you will find that cars that have power steering wear more on the inner/outer edges which can be more noticable the wider the tyre is, also if most of the driving is done around town. because our cars turn easier on the steering wheel we tend to over steer slightly which in turn scrubs the tyre a little hense the wear, you need to experiment a little with inflation pressure to try and balance it and consciously check your driving habits when cornering being a taxi driver with all your running around ,cornering,U turns 3 point turns (or almost hand brake turn that i saw one do over weekend) ect ect it doesn't suprise me your wearing tyres quicker Worn steering/suspension joints/bushes do add to the wear due to the movement it is giving so that does need addressing, also the way the tyre is made can contribute to wear some are soft compound and some are harder. obviously the softer ones wear quicker which from experience tends to be the cheaper ones (not all though). Also think about the centre point of the tyre that contacts the road as the pivot point, the wider the tyre is the more travel the outer/inner edges make thus more wear at this point. The best I have experienced for wear were continentals they were a harder compound so lasted longer, the down side was you couldn't drive it too hard as it lost grip patic in the wet. the best I have had for grip were Michelin's but we are talking on a vw t4 van. that said though they were the same size as the Gal and x/load

I'm afraid I can't be specific on your fault as I have a diesel model but that said diagnosis should be similar. Also you need to bare in mind that on modern cars the ECU's can take anything up to 30-45 mins to shut down properly and some when you just unlock the doors or open the doors power up the ECU so diagnosic can be difficult How are you checking for this drain, is it with a digital multimeter or the less accurate amp clamps. I ask as I use both at work and get different reading for the same thing but much prefer the multimeter approach as it is more accurate and as a general rule more than .1amp is classed as a drain , as mentioned though if you have a higher spec car you need to allow a time scale for the various ECU's to shut down properly and also allow a slightly higher drain to keep all the memory's alive If as you say you have removed ALL the fuses aswell as the under bonnet one's and there has been no change then you have to think of circuits that are not fuse protected commonly alternator/starter ect but as we know the alternator on the gal is fuse protected Also don't discount the obvious, ie Battery. I have had battery's go faulty and show a drain so a known good substitute helps as a last resort I'm not aware of a capacitor discharge to keep anything on the gal's running after the battery has been disconnected but diagnosing cars can always be a learning curve. I could be wrong as I have never had this myself but I would have thought that the run on pump was ECU controlled or worked off a temp sensor which allows it to run to help prevent a rise in temperature in the engine when turned off,which would be connected to the battery. alot of the early german made cars did this you would sometimes hear the radiator fan cut in after the ignition was turned off and you were walking away from the vehicle some thought it was a fault but it is there for a reason

""how do you test the glow plugs are getting power to them when in place??"" putting a test light on it would be an obvious answer - sorry couldnt resist the diesel engine suffers from relay 109 problems which could be the answer, what lights come on when you turn the ignition on does the glow plug light come on? if it doesn't then it could be the 109 relay

Any chance you can confirm engine size and year so we can determine which engine it has, also do you notice any smoke out of exhaust and can you reproduce the fault when you rev it up while stationary What was the failure of the turbo - oil seals, turbine broke? what damage was done to the engine

There is a camshaft sensor but as sepulchrave says it is not relevent, it is there mainly to tell the ECU where no1 cyl is. There are more informed people than me re this engine but could/does this not have an idle speed control valve that could be playing up, this was my 1st thought when I read your post.