torvil

OK diagnoses proved that turbo was obliterated. Just trying to source recon unit. Best prices so far are the wrong side of £350 and harbour at £230 eeeekk!!

MAF sensor disconnected...no change. With the air pipe removed it starts just about and idles rough for around 4 seconds before it cuts out.

The large pipe is the one from the inter cooler at the front offside of the engine. It does suggest timing slip but why would it run with this pipe removed?

Yesterday whilst the wife was driving she stated the 2004 130hp ASZ engine cut out whilst travelling at around 50mph. She told me there were no apparent noises or smoke. It would start, turns over but just doesn't fire with still no unusual noises (lack of compression etc) The RAC guy comes, drags it home and says the turbos broken. He unloads it from van, removes the big oil pipe and it runs enough for him to park it on our drive. It runs very rough without the pipe connected, but when I replace it, the car just will not start again. Can anyone help?

Yesterday whilst the wife was driving she stated the 2004 130hp ASZ engine cut out whilst travelling at around 50mph. She told me there were no apparent noises or smoke. It would start, turns over but just doesn't fire with still no unusual noises (lack of compression etc) The RAC guy comes, drags it home and says the turbos broken. He unloads it from van, removes the big oil pipe and it runs enough for him to park it on our drive. It runs very rough without the pipe connected, but when I replace it, the car just will not start again. Can anyone help?

I recently chaged the pads and discs all round on my 2004 TDi 130. I will admit that they were a cheap set from a seller on e-bay and only paid around £90 delivered (a risk I know)! All went well until a few weeks ago the car developed, first a sqeal from the front and then second days later a horrible rattle. My intial thought the rattle was an ARB drop link on the near side,even though I had replaced them both last summer. However on inspection I noticed that the outer pad on the near front wheel was able to move around as if it was too small for the carrier in the caliper. I will add that prior to fitting I smoothered the back of the pad with copper slip grease. In addition to this the n/s brake disc hasnt been in contact with the pad on the outer 1/3 surface from the hub. I have removed the pad and put copper slip arond the our edge of the pad and on the rear again, obviously not on the brake surface. This has got rid of the rattle (for now at least) and reduced the sqeal. Has anyone experienced this and is it down to the inferiro pads? Can anyone recommend a brand or should I go straight for Genuine/OE pads. The offside pads are fine and silent.

Got a second opinion o Eric the phone today by another local engineer who stated that this problem I'd almost definately a faulty internal part in the compressor. He did mention the known pipe corrosion problem around the headlamp and that the pipe work is fitted prior to the engine figment at the factory which he states is very common on our vehicles. The decision of whether to spend £300 on a compressor refit and the gamble of it being something as well which is at sorts an engine out job is a tough one.

No fault codes on vag con. Did initially have engine coolant temp sensor 17664 but have erased this. Not apparent signs of leaks or corrosion. I'm going to try for a second opinion. Why does the galaxy have so much glass. It would be fine to drive everywhere with the windows down if we didn't use it on the motorway.

Mk 2 facelift. I can't find out how to add a signature. The model is on my profile with a photo.

Thanks for the replies I clearly have a few more avenues to explore now. I did watch what he was doing when he performed the procedure on both occasions. He did have the car ticking over for at least 30 mins when he pressure tested it with the nitrogen. When he put the coolant in he knew how much to put in and the system worked for a few minutes and initially he claimed that the pressure didn't drop which he couldn't understand. He did mention the drier and appeared to examine it after the refrigerant and dye had been out in but he never removed any panels to perform closer inspection. I assume that if there is corrossion around the pipe work enough to make the system fail, it's can be seen to the naked eye? Should there be other signs ie signs of the refrigerant leak.

I forgot to mention that it is a single zone system without the roof vents, and the compressor is not working now (no change of rpm). The climatronic doesn't flash on startup. The engineer stated that this type of system (self driven or something) is more difficult to diagnose compressor fault that other vehicles.

Hi folks just an update. The engineer came back round two weeks ago and regassed the system with some dye after pumping nitrogen (I think) into the system to see if it was holding pressure. It did at first but after 30 minutes it started to drop albeit very slowly. The dye didn't detect a leak and when regassed the system worked a treat.....for the first 10 mins anyway. He noticed that the cold air pipe want getting cold even though the pressure was still high in the system. Low and behold the compressor wasn't working again and now no cold air. His verdict was that he thought that the compressor was faulty and that there was probably a further issue which couldn't be diagnosed until the compressor is replaced. £190 + vat for the part £60 labour and then the threat of a (at worst) leaking pipe from behing the engine, im in a quandary of whether to get it repaired it part ex the car. It's such a shame as we live the car but need the A/C in the summer months due to the motorway commuting it does. Any further advice would be appreciated.

The air con on my galaxy no longer blows cool air. It has been re charged, confirmed that no leaks are present as the engineer has re-visited two weeks later and confirmed that it's holding it's pressure and levels, also the compressor engages and disengages. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and has a solution like a knackered climate control unit or temp sensor.

Did you resolve this issue as I'm having the same problem, and my air con is working but not blowing cooled air.

I'm about to replace my factory fitted visteon DVD player with a combined universal replacement headrest system. I have seen these listed http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/searchresults?cmd=SKW&pg=1&kw=In+car+DVD+%2B+headrest On that well known auction site and wondered if anyone has any reviews or feedback on the finished product and more importantly the three retailers. I'm suspicious as you have to communicate with the sellers via email only. Any advice would be great.

Hi it's sounds like you have a power failure (feed) to the system, or yours (like mine) control module has failed. Check your supply with a mutimeter. Control module is over

Thanks for the reply Mirez. I have 2x12v into the system, one via the stock radio. I have checked, and detached/ wiggled the wires under the seats, screens power down when disconnected/power up when reconnected. The DVD plays as as I hear sound via the head phones. I have managed to persuade my local dealer to order and supply a control module to try before I buy. I will update with my progress.

There are many threads on this topic, even a one from myself. However I wanted to inform everyone on a developement I've made with mine, whilst at the same time throw another question into the forum, along with any experiences people have with fitting after market products and reapir routes, so here goes... MY VEHICLE 2004 FORD GALAXY GHIA 130 ELEGANCE My factory fitted Visteon MB8000 stopped working over Christmas, losing power to the system, (no illumination, no power to screens, no sound, action from remote etc. 1. Fuses checked OK (both from fuse board & 5 amp on back of unit. 2. Power to "DVD Control Module" unit checked OK (red wire 12v main feed & white wire 12v from radio - only when switched on as normal procedure. 3. Power from DVD Control Module to DVD player OK (pin 4 red wire 12v) 4. Power from DVD Control Module to DVD player -FAULT (pin 7 PINK 0v) * I got all confused at this point and stated to make inquiries about getting the unit tested. 5. Booked the units in and posted them to AES (Visteon UK) aka www.fixmyradio.co.uk based in the west midlands near to Dudley. Although this was as good as useless as they sent the units back three weeks later complete with a note indicating "unable to test or repair", I did speak to a very helpful guy at Visteon UK who provided me with some very usefull info regarding diagnoses litrature. 6. Spoke to technician at Ford about my options. I wanted to know if or what was faulty. If the DVD Control Module was faulty happy days as I can replace this at £130, however with the a new DVD player at £909 I did not want to shell out the non negotiable £60 non refundable dianostic check for fear of it being inconclusive (like Visteon) and this would be halfway twds either a new Control Module or maybe an aftermarket system. I was rather cheeky by asking If I could order a new Control Unit and return it if wouldn't get my system back up & running again. Guess what the reply was! 6a. Took the units to a local guy who attempted to perform diagnoses whist at the same time inquiring about a hardwired aftermarket option - Result- £700 for a complete new system but £200 for a new aftermarket player inc labour to plumb this to my existing screens. This seemed a good option at £200 so I decided to put some scrutiny to this quote. BTW he returned my units stating he could not repair or diagnose problem. 6b. Another local and reputable installer took a look a the Galaxy who said to fit an aftermarket player to my screens would cause problems as all aftermarket players are a standard din size and would not fit into the normal slot (who wants a hole or a none working unit stuck in the rear of the center console?) 7. I went back to the drawing board and revisited point 4. Remember when I said I found a fault with pin 7 not providing power via the pink wire from the control module to the dvd player? Well I thought, the fault must be in the Control Module, so I found using my multi meter a redundant feed from the Control Module (on the same block a pin which doesnt feed a wire in the multi connector) and bridged it to the pink wire to fool it into thinking the pink wire was providing 12 volts-HET PRESTO!!! 8. I not only had power to the DVD player, illumination, disc spinning, screens powering, even sound, yes I was listening to the sound track via the headphones, but the pink wire now had power after removing the bridge, a bit like providing CPR to the Control Module jump started the initial fault "everybody stand back please paramedic coming through"! 9. So now I have a system which plays DVDs as sound, fast forwards/chapters etc, ejects and reloads discs, but only powers the screens to display blank illumination in a dark blue colour. 10. I now face the dillemma of weather to buy a Control Module (if only I could plug one that I knew worked ok in to the system to determine whether mine was faulty). My thoughts are it must be the Control Module as i dont think the dvd player would spin and play sound if the player was faulty, and I am doubtful of a loose connection to the screens as they are powering. Additonaly I cannot now control the system with remote control (batteries checked ok). Can anyone share any experiences or knowledge with me please. I will update this post with any development or result. Also, does anyone have an aftermarket unit hard wired into their Gal/Sharan/Alhambra, if so hows it fitted, does the player fit into the usual slot? Hopefully this thread will assist people in the future, in the hope that we can keep kids entertained around the world, whilst travelling (ARE WE NEARLY THERE YET?)

Did you get sorted Stu? If you did can you let me know what and how you fixed it as I have the same problem.

My DVD system has stopped working. It always was a bit delicate and had to be reset by switching engine off, keys out if I rushed the start-up. I know there are threads on here about this topic but no one has posted a resolution, only their problem, symptom, intention. I have power going onto the DVD but no power to screens. I don't know whether my DVD player and or control unit is faulty. The model is a Visteon mb-8000. Any advice, history, or experience would be so much appreciated.

Did you sell the dvd player?

Hi folks, may I ask if this issue resolved? Was it the control unit or the dvd player? I have a 2004 with multimedia which has suddenly stopped working, nothing, not even illumination on the screens or dvd unit. The unit was tempremental before, for example, if you tried to start it too quick it would'nt work prior to it being reset (ignition off, key out). Fuses OK, power to the control unit and power from control unit 12v and 5v to the dvd. No power from control unit to monitors though. There is a place in Bath, "maple audio" on the internet which advertises a repair service for the DVD player (visteon mb-8000), but there is no price displayed. I am hoping to resolve the problem asap but would love to kick start this thread in order to assist anyone with the same problem, and to see if anyone else has fixed their multimedia system. Many Thanks

Just a quick reply to the thread, purchased new (2nd hand) clock 4 weeks ago and working a treat. If your clock is losing time or going backwards, this is probably your solution. Thanks Mirez

I was hoping for a cheaper solution, oh well! Are they all the same in mk2s?

I think the title describes my querie ok. The oval clock sometimes works ok but frequently loses time as it goes backwards. When I try to adjust the time it spins backwards. When I switch the ignition off and leave it for sometime it starts working fine. I have checked the connected wires which appear to be fine. Anyone got any ideas?