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Hello Brash, I did mine a few months ago and I didn't have to split ball joint, just undone the two allen bolts on bottom of ball joint. From the Ford procedure, the hub bolt should be replaced on reassembly as I presume it goe's into yield but I don't think it makes a great difference. Hi Again Unfortunatly I havn't got a digital camera so no pics, but I got the cv boot changed successfully and its been ok now for 200mls .The order of replacement go's as follows; 1. Loosen large (27mm socket) centre hub bolt in middle of wheel (extremely tight) 2. Loosen 19mm socket wheel nuts. 3. Jack up the car and use axle stand to secure (so car is not supported by the jack). 4. Remove the wheel and remove the under engine tray( 4 bolts and 2 nuts with 10mm socket) 5. A star shaped male M12 socket bit is now needed to remove the 6 bolts on the engine side driveshaft cup.(use 1st gear to stop driveshaft turning) 6. Tie up drive shaft taking care not to bend the cv joints too much when removed. 7. Undo trackrod end ball joint (18mm socket) and bottom wishbone ball joint (21mm socket) and split joints.scissor type splitter needed so not to damage ball joint protection rubber. 8. Undo (using a 19mm Ring spanner) drop link bar using a (6mm I Think) allen key to stop it spinningand damaging protection rubber. 9. With the hub bolt inserted tap the bolt with a Nylon faced hammer to break the seal between hub and driveshaft. 10. Remove hub bolt and pull front strut towards you taking care not to drop the driveshaft. 11. Try to tie the strut to one side to make it easier for rebuilding (I did 'nt bother but it would be easier) 12. As soon as the front stut is pulled towards you with one hand you should find the drive shaft comes off in the other ( NO Gearbox oil will be lost due to the design of the cv joint cup arrangment). 13.Cut the old metal bands off the Damaged boot (Not the good one like I nearly did). 14. Pull the damaged Boot off taking notice which groove in the shaft and cup that the bands fasten in. 15. Remove the Circlip on the end of the driveshaft (new circlip supplied with boot) 16. Pull CV joint off splines and clean complete assembly. 17. Refit new boot , then cv joint, pack with grease and fasten metal bands with special pliers. 18. Rebuild and enjoy. P.S Ball joint will now spin whilst you try to do the nut up (use a spanner and allen key in the end to stop it spinning) I'm no mechanic and this may not be everyones way of doing it but after research and advice off here it took me approx 2.5 hrs to complete with a cup of tea half way If anyone wants to change and use this in F.A.Q for everyones benefit their more than welcome.

I'm looking for the software and correct lead to comunicate with my 54 reg diesel galaxy. I already have a laptop so not interested in a hand held reader. Doe's anyone know exactly what software & lead is required as seems to be lots of different ones on ebay. Can anyone advise?

Hello, Whatever option you take make sure you clean out inlet & exhaust manifolds, EGR & tubes, turbo etc as the bits get absolutely every where. May be stating the obvious but many a dealer doe's not bother to do this leading to further disasters!

The air temperature from my air con got gradually warmer and warmer over 6 months or so ( I did not use it much as winter). I bought one those EZ chill kits from Halfords as did not want to be stung by dealer or kwik fit. The reading was in lower half of blue section which mean't system had enough refridgerant, but I added a little refridgerant and reading did not seem to move. My air con has started working again since recharging and has done so for three weeks now, how long it will last who knows!

Hello, If we are talking about water temperature sensor, try this link. Hope this helps

Thanks for the info So you think it would not do any harm to MAF sensor if I give the sensor a good squirt of electrical contact spray, a gentle blow with compressed air and allowed to dry before refitting? My galaxy was just serviced at ford dealer to keep up history (why I don't know!) and as per usual it seems to go in with no problems and comes out with lots of niggles. Seemed to come out suffering from low power once dealer had their hands on it. Unplugged maf sensor and it seemed to make no difference, replugged the sensor back in and it seems to be fine now. I'm presuming dealer had not plugged cable back in fully after changing air filter, just like the induction hose clip pushed back to the elbow and not clipped back on hose/box.

As for the temperature gauge going up & down without access to WDS / vag com etc I would check that temp switch connection is fully home, ie, unclip, clean, re-clip and check the wire no damage etc. If you can trace wire back etc or all else fails change water temp switch? Thats a start some one else on here may have had simular issues

Hello, May sound like a silly question but can you clean your MAF sensor? Or will you damage it? And if so will it prolong its life/improve performance? And what would you use to clean it? I read some where that the hot wire has a special coating and is easily damaged but wondered if thats manufactors encouraging you to renew rather than service? Thanks

I think a flashing glow plug light is a malfunction warning. I think one the common causes is a defective brake switch, check your brake lights see if they are working. Loss of power is common on the 1.9tdi, there are loads of threads about it here. I think the common causes are the MAF sensor (which has been changed), defective or leaking vacuum pipes or T MAX sensor. Have a search for "low power" you will find dozens of threads Hope this helps

Are you getting good continuity between the alternator terminal and battery terminal? And then do you still get good continuity while you pull/yank the connecting cable? I had loads of trouble with the fuse link box (melted) on battery and cable had started to melt. Might sound silly but are your brake lights working? The brake light switch on my galaxy blew when I had trouble with with fuse link/battery, may have nothing to do with it but don't take a second to check.

Hello, I just replaced the gaitors on the inner CV Joints both sides as they were split. The procedure above is very good, but it is for the outer CV joints, there are just few more points for inner cv joints. The drive shaft has to be removed to renew inner CV joints or gaitors on them. I have a 54 reg 6 speed diesel galaxy and the procedure is basically same as above but I did not need to remove nut & bolt on the ball joint (stage 3). For the six speed you only then have to remove the six bolts holding inner CV joint to gear box but you will need a spline socket to remove bolts. For re-tightening of these bolts the torque should be 80Nm. I have a print off of the ford procedure and it states the hub bolt should be replaced as I presume it goe's into yield but more importantly the torque should be 150Nm + 90 degrees i.e, torque hub bolt to 150Nm then mark a line across the bolt head 3 o clock to 9 o clock, then continue to tighten bolt until bolt line is 6 o clock to 12 o clock. Local Ford dealers were quoting me

Refitted alternator cable and new fuse box, good continuity between alternator and battery. 14.2 vdc across battery after restarting, this dropped to 13.5 vdc when air con, heated screen etc turned on but went back up to 14 vdc max when revved. Cable and terminals cool both ends after 10 minutes of running, lets see how long it lasts! Thanks for the advice and comments

If you can be without your car for a week and a half waiting for a warranty booking with no courtesy car for the day your car goe's in, then that is fine. Being without my car for just one day causes chaos in my household! I tried three local Main dealerships, two were a week and a half wait, the other was 6 to 8 weeks wait! I've bought the new fuse box and cut back / re-terminated cable, I'll let you know how I get on.

Hello I have a December 2004 Zetec Galaxy 1.9 TDI and started to get the Glow Plug light flashing. After some checking and double checking of glow plug connections, I decided to book into Ford dealership as car still has warranty. After many wasted phone calls to dealers who are not interested in warranty issues unless you are booking a service at same time, I thought I'll fix myself. By this time the ignition light was staying illuminated as well and I was told that glow plug light is a general malfunction indicator. I found both brake lights not working and changed brake switch. This cured the glow plug light flashing but not the illuminated ignition light and the battery was starting to go flat. Voltage across battery with engine running 11.75 so no charge going into battery and then realised battery is only 70 AH / 340 A so replaced with new 80 AH / 800 A. Checked cable between alternator and battery, no continuity. Opened fuse box by battery and found alternator wire/fuse box & 150 amp link starting to melt. Cleaned up connection best I could but box/fuse link in a bad way, restarted engine and was getting 13.8 volts but wire getting hot at fuse box end after 5 mins of engine running. Tomorrow I'm off to dealer to purchase new fuse box and fuse link, going to cut back and re-terminate alternator cable. Should I be checking anything else as new battery was silver cadium and can not let that go flat? I presuming the melted box etc was down to bad/loose connection? Any advice anyone?