niallsan

Hi folks Car just failed NCT/MOT for worn suspension top mounts on both fronts. I only replaced the offside top mount 4 months ago because it was siezed. It cant be shot already. I argued that when the wheel is off the ground that the strut rests on the top mounting cup and is free top move around. The only thing that stops it moving around is the rubber mount when the weight of the car is fully on it. He was right...so it failed. Am I wrong on this?

Doesn't matter...either way.. N.

Hi chromedome Out of interest.....what price did you pay for the GKN shafts? Looking at their website, they look like they should be good quality. Were they delivered from the UK? thanks Niall

You wont get an error from vagcom by doing the tests. These only get logged when a fault occurs during a normal cycle of the heater. Do the test for the dosing pump again and listen for clicking, about 3 clicks per second, coming from under drivers side passenger door. Leave the test to run for 30 seconds. I have a heater set up on my garage bench and noticed that when it hasn't been operated for a while a varnish/gum like substance builds up in the diesel line. When the heater/dosing pump runs again this gum travels up the line to the filter at the front of the pump and completely blocks it. Also this seems to affect the pump itself. If the pump hasn't been run for a while it won't click when the heater is started. It takes a spray of wd40 into the pump and a good few jump-starts to get it going. By 'jump-starts' I mean just disconnecting the pump from the heater wiring and connecting 12v across it. Seems to work anyway. Long story short:- check pump test again; do as chrispb123456 says and either short wires under scuttle tray or better again put a switch in and run this to either engine bay or into the dash area so you have control and can switch it on when you want to. N..

Hi Fraz-kft When you checked the dosing pump with Vagcom, did you hear it clicking? Also, I would start engine first then run Vagcom. When done vice-versa, for me anyway, the engine would run for a second then cut out????? If anyone has a knackered D5Z-F or suspect controller for same, if you post the controller to me I will try to get it working . No guarantees though!! If I get it working I'll send it back to you, if not, no point!!!! I have a morbid interest in these little things..and a long winter ahead!!!

Hi Michael 8168 I had a noise from the front right ' as I thought' in my Galaxy lately. Brought it to a mechanic...took it for a drive down motorway...you could hear the noise much more while driving but sitting in the passenger side it was barely noticable. He was convinced it was drivers side wheel bearing, so changed that one....didn't solve noise. Brought car to a different mechanic and he said it was def passenger side bearing...changed...noise gone. Apparently the noise travels from one side to the other??? Is it more noticable on pass. side or drivers side?? N

Hi Thumpermike1 Just wondering if you have scanned the auto box for errors? My Galaxy went into limp mode while towing a caravan. It would happen while in 5th gear going uphill at about 1600rpm. It then goes into 3rd gear and wont change up until you pull over and turn off and on the engine. I drove about 120 miles in 3rd before I found this out!!!!! :wacko: After scanning with vag com a problem with the 'lockup clutch' in the auto box showed up as an error...don't remember the code. I believe either the clutch itself is getting worn and just can't handle the load or there is some solenoid prob in gearbox controller. To stop it happening while on hols I just used the car in Tiptronic mode and it worked no problem. There might be some problem with a sensor someplace telling the autobox that the car is under load and 'now its time to change down a gear'??? Also, when not pulling the caravan, the car works fine!! tG long story short...scan autobox!!!! Regards Niall

Crawl under and grab the driveshaft (both sides)near the inner cv joint....if there is ANY movement of the shaft , inner cv joint is worn. The Galaxy is really sensitive to any wear on the inner cv. This happened to me after towing also. Best of luck....N

Thanks sambulance I'll have a look at the Hub bolt again. I don't think the inter shaft is going to strip. There isn't much play and there is still grease in it. N

Oh Ya and both wheel bearings have been changed in the last year as well!!???

Hi all..... Guess what...the front end is making strange noises.....again. At about 55 to 60 mph there is a rumble, sort of like a helicopter blade noise, coming form the front...someplace. History of drivetrain...about 2 years ago I had to replace the inner cv joints because of the 'wobble'. Problem 95% fixed. happy enough. 3 month ago I replaced the front discs and pads. So I replaced them again thinking that one of them could be warped. One of the discs had a slight run out so I replaced them. . The small vibration that was there went away but noise was still there. I moved the front tyres to the rear - maybe slight improvement? . I replaced the drivers side driveshaft with one I got on Ebay from j_r2006. The outer cv on the driveshafts were really stiff with metal grinding against metal so I didn't expect much. This brought the wobble back same as 2 years ago...so I refitted the original with the replaced inner cv joint from motomax in Poland. Anyway, the local garage has suggested it may be the intermediate driveshaft bearing or a Diff bearing? Has anybody had any experience with either of these going bad. If so how does it sound when faulty? Any feedback welcome... Thanks N

Hi People.. Does this intermediate shaft fail on automatic transmissions? Do ye think it's likely to cause a slight vibration if failing? The vibration occurs or is more noticable above 55mph, looking in the rearview mirror, the rearview image shakes or vibrates about once every 2 seconds? Any thoughts? N..

Thanks Seatkid Had this problem last night.. Remote fob flashing but car not locking or unlocking.. The car was starting ok though so not linked to immobiliser, TG. I followed the procedure outlined above(Remote Transmitter Programming (410040)), and fob worked again!!! Literally 20 seconds to fix! ONCE AGAIN.. this forum has saved me Euros. Thanks Seatkid and others. N.

Thanks Seatkid Had this problem last night.. Remote fob flashing but car not locking or unlocking.. I followed the procedure outlined above(Remote Transmitter Programming (410040)), and fob worked again!!! Literally 20 seconds to fix! ONCE AGAIN.. this forum has saved me Euros. Thanks Seatkid and others. N.

Just adding these photos of Eber D5Z-F controller/ecu internals etc...