richyrich

Did mine yesterday.The guides are good - and as most people say, allow about 3 hrs to do the job. Take your time, plenty of WD40, don't hit things too hard. Mine wern't completely seized so not too bad a job,I could only just turn the linkages with my hand though - very tight. Richard

Seatkid - I thought about your comments. I decided to start again and deleted the version I had anyway(311-2 I think) and downloaded the free version of VCDS Lite version 1 and hey presto, all now ok. Can only look at a few things but it's all I need for now. Thanks anyway Richyrich

Now that my gal works ok I thought the problem I had with my vag com would dissapear. When I try to communicate with it using my free version from Ross Tech all I get is the following message for every thing I try - 'Excessive Comm Errors" I thought this was because the MAF sensor had been faulty for too long and it had built up a 'back log ' of faults!! Anybody any ideas - it has worked before. Would disconnecting the battery for a while maybe clear them? Richy Rich

Got fed up with the lack of performance of my 1.9tdi so I took the plunge and replaced the MAF sensor. The car would actually slow down on hills and I'd have to change down a gear What a difference - unbelievable! Cost just over 80squid from VW but well worth it. It's like having a new car!! Richyrich

Just done both my cup holders over the weekend and found there are 2 tangs to be released on each cup holder. Left and right on the top. Did it with 2 large feeler gauges. C;eaned in hot soapy water, dried them out and replaced. Now working fine. Richyrich

I had exactly the same symptoms. Replaced knackered run on pump(brushes wear down to nothing) situated top right hand engine compartment, then as I still got loads of smoke I replaced the exhaust (about 30 squid from VW) and it cured the problem instantly. Richyrich

I'll bet that the plug has come off the back of a sensor. You can check if any are working by putting your finger on it - or your ear close up to it and you can actually feel it pulsing. Worth a look/try. I have the basic vag com and lead to check it if you are ever near Wellingborough, this will tell which one is faulty - but not exactly what the fault is. Richyrich

yep - 3 or 4 screws top and bottom, then all wheel arch screws either side(4 I think) and the bumper just pulls off. Don't take any more than 20 - 30 mins. I did it when I replaced my condenser. Look at my old post - some pics there. Also all detailed on TIS if you have it. Rich

If you can check through my old posts you will see some photos of the front of the car when I changed my condensor. Removing front bumper is quite easy. There is an easy way, and the hard way of the ford TIS manual! Still need the specialist gear afterwards though. Richyrich

Correct - 1 sensor faulty means none of them will work I had the same with one front sensor. Rich

I don't think it's a pump that has a rotary shaft, I think it's a solenoid type pump which is why it pulses(or clicks) when it's working. Basically the voltage is pulsed(switched on and off) so putting a vlotage on it from a battery would give you one pulse so to speak. I think your problem lies elsewhere - usually the glow plug I'm afraid. Rich

I had exactly the same problem a few years ago - exact same sensor. Found out that when I pushed the sensor fully home the tight wiring loom caused the plug to slightly come off. Cured it then by putting a spot of superglue in the plug before connecting it. I did a job on my a/c not so long ago and took the whole front bumper off - surprisingly easy, only takes 15-20 mins. When you do that you have to unplug the parking sensor loom and the temperature sensor. This would give you a better look at the wiring loom around the inside of the bumper - up to you! Richard

I believe the heater stays on in the lower setting if the outside temp is very low. Mine does - not sure what it is but I'm sure somebody in the know will confirm yes or no. Rich

Check the battery - how old is it? If the battery voltage is low due to it's age then the alternator will be fairly loaded after you've managed to start the engine. I've generally found battery life to be 5 years although I know some will say theirs is older. If you can use a voltmeter then you can see what the condition is quite simply - before you start the engine it should be around 12.5 - 13 volts, after you've started the engine it should go up to about 13.5 volts at least to actually charge the battery. Check out some other threads about batteries nd alternators - might be helpful. Richard

I got so fed up with mine years ago that I found the easiest option was to unlug the sensor in drivers side B pilllar. You need to unbolt the seat belt thing but it doesn't take too long. I found that they were affected by so many things inside the car and going off all sorts of times - particulary during the hot weather. No problem now. Rich

Firefly, my 2001 tdi has been the same with regard brake light switches. Just replace the switch and you'll find that the flashing glow plug light will stop flashing after the ecu has received a number of operations of the brake light switch. No need to get diagnostics done. I think the switches are better now cos the one fitted now is lasting longer, but I do keep a spare one in the glove compartment! Richard

Aabrantes, you can replace the filter dryer only if you want to, but as said you will have to de-gass to do that anyway. You need to get the cap off the top using a piece of threaded rod and with it being aluminium and several years old I doubt you will get it off without damaging the rest of the unit. It is held in by a large inner circlip - can be seen after you have taken the top plastic cover off. Chances are that you may still have a leak after replacing it anyway. If you get the front bumper off (only a 20 minute job-honestly!) and then get a mobile fridge engineer out to you it shouldn't take too long or be too costly. Richard

Check out my post back on May 10 ref - 'A/C leak repair - pictures included. Job was quite easy really after I had proved to myself that the leak was on the top of the filter dryer(attached to the condeser and part of it) Need any more pointers? Regards Richard

Sorry - forgot this one. Done 1 picture twice didn't I. This one shows the receiver/dryer on the side of the condenser and shows how to cut the access hole a bit better to get to the 10mm bolt. It's still working well. Rich

Okay - how about these. Hope they display okay. Never done a picture download to this site before. Richard

Thanks for all the replies guys!! I've just replaced the condensor myself - regassed, and all back working. Job's a doddle if you know a bit about a/c. The only problem I had was getting to the 4 x 10mm screws that secure the condensor. Dropped the whole front bumper off - then using a junior hacksaw cut pieces from the fibre glass bits that hide the screw heads and removed and replaced the condensor - vacuumed out and regassed. Anybody want any pointers/advice just give me a shout. I was surprised how easy it was to drop the front bumper assembly off. 4 screws on the top, 3 on the bottom underneath, 4 in each of the front wheel arches - off she comes. Unplug the parking sensor harness, unplug both foglights, unclip the outside temperature sensor and it's gone out of the way. Whole job only took me about 3 hours total. If I did another one it would be only 2 hours I reckon! Got some pictures if anyone interested? Rich

I have a leak in that section on the left hand side of my condensor where you can prise the top cover off (under the plastic grill). There is a plate held in by a inner circlip which I believe can be taken out and there is an o ring underneath thay maybe needs changing and it could cure my problem. Some time ago i'm sure I saw a thread where someone did just that - with pictures as well. Can someone tell me where to go (politely!) so's I can see this thread again or even confirm my thoughts before I get stuck in and cause more of a problem than I have now. Thanks Richard

Mine is the same - only illuminates briefly but I've measured the DC current going through the cables using a device called an amp probe. it clips around the wire and will measure AC or DC current. In my case the current goes as high as 48 amps for all 4 if my memory is right - then it gradually drops depending on outside temperature/engine temperature. So yes, I think there is some built in 'intelligence'. It's the easiest way to check them that I know off. You can measure their individual resistance, or you could measure the individual current if you want - or even take them out and connect them briefly to a battery - be careful though.

My galaxy kept doing this - lock car with keyfob and alarm goes off after 20 mins. I diconnected the ultrasonic sensor in the drivers side B pillar and no more problems with alarm going off since. Sensors are not armed straight away - I believe there is time delay so you walk away thing everything ok and hey presto alarm goes off 20 mins later. Richard

Look in FAQ - might be under 'Relay 30 Replacement' - I think - maybe. If not there was an excellent post by 'grahamm' on June 21 2006, with pictures. I know cos I printed it off and kept it. It really is that good and useful. Richard (richyrich)