Turvey

Mate of mine(who used to work in a garage) suggested BBQ/oven cleaner :D Take of exhaust and spray liberally he tells me. Leave it for a couple of hours/overnight, replace exhaust and start the car. Reason being its carbon that sticks the turbo and BBQ cleaner cleans carbon i.e burnt food. Only thing is I've not been brave enough to give it a try.............yet!! Dont suppose it could do any harm as the cleaner cant get into the gubbins of the engine as you would spray it into the turbo on the outlet side of it only. Would intersted in hearing other peoples opinions before I tried it on my only mode of transport though :D

One of my pals has suggested useing BBQ/oven cleaner and spraying it into the turbo and letting it work for a couple of hours or overnight, putting the exhaust back on and fireing it up. Dont know if it would work or not though?

I bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-KKL-Vag-Com-Cabl...oQQcmdZViewItem and was more than pleased with it. :ph34r:

Cheers Dave, much appreciated :angry2:

Does anyone know the part number for the N75 on a 52 1.9 115 Alhambra? And is it a main dealer part only or can you get them from a motor factors?

Thanks for that :wacko:

Another question for you Vag-com experts out there. I was reading this topic http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...17664&st=60 when I acme across the following Can you only do this with the full version of vag-com? And has anyone tried it? Did it work? Sorry for the multiple questions but this problem is really starting to drive me nuts!!!

Getting the usual 'turbo cutoff limp home mode' problems that seem to plague these motors. After getting my vag-com set up and resetting codes etc I get the dreaded 17965 code. By using this excellent forum I am working my way through the list of possible causes and may have come across what it might be. The actuator? moves quite freely by hand but doesn't move at all when the engine is started/stopped as suggested on here by someone but I cant find the post that said it now :D So in my eyes this would suggest a vacum problem? By using this logic I started taking of hoses and checking for leaks etc. What a bugger of a job some of those hoses are to trace :D I have come across a possible suspect namely the hose that comes of the round silver thing directly behind the oil filler cap. There seems to be a very slight vacum here and I wondered if this should be a strong vacum and this was causing the problems? Anyway, getting the main question of my topic. Is there a diagram of the vacum system on here somewhere? This would save me describing something as "the hose that comes of the round silver thing directly behind the oil filler cap" :huh: Any other words of wisdom on my problems would be most appreciated.

I took a note of the codes that came up when I first switched it on and then I reset them................and posted them, forgetting they were cleared :) so the "only" current code is 17965 :angry2: One amusing side effect of the whole exercise was, I reset the aux heating fault. I got a phonecall from my wife a couple of days later saying the car was making a funny sound and there was lots of smoke coming from the back!!! ;) So I got a lift down to the car and started it up expecting a big broken turbo sound and heard nothing. After walking round the car a couple of times and lifting the bonnet I walked to the back of the car to see great plumes of grey smoke coming from underneath just in front of the back wheel. It then slowly dawned on me it was the heater trying to start :D

Well. got my lead today complete with 409 software and usb drivers on a disc. Borrowed mum-in-laws laptop, loaded software and drivers, very simple to do---even I managed it :D The not-so-good news is the codes I got of it. :lol: 17664/P1256 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Open / Short to B+ 17965/P1557/005463 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation :2: :2: :lol: 17552 Apparantly this needs the full version to de-code. Couldn't find it on ross-tech wiki. Any clues anyone?

Have a lookie here :lol: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=16314 HTH

Cheers for that turk ;) can I call you turk? ;) You've cleared up one question as to what version I would have to download. And no doubt I will have a few more before I'm done :lol: :)

Big Kev Whats your views on these leads regarding the turbo trip out fault? turk90210 on another thread has said whilst I have no reason at all to doubt him, I have not seen this being mentioned on here before :) ATB From Not so big Kev :(

I've just wasted 15 quid then :( :)

Never heard that before. Tried it out earlier today, not very easy trying to watch the road AND the little LED is it? Just about wrapped it round a lamp-post :( No LED came on though. So whats the verdict? Getting a vag-com lead this week so hopefully will be able to get a fault code or two :) Thanks for the reply.

I've just ordered one like THIS on the recomendation of someone on here. Will let you know I get on with it when it arrives. :(

Took this out of the Just How Many 115tdi turbos Trip Out thread I dont seem to get a warning light coming on when I suffer the loss of power or at any other time come to mention it. Is this light meant to come on when the ignition is first turned? If it is supposed to what is the likely fault? Blown bulb?

Thanks for that, will get one ordered ASAP.

I presume you bought this lead of ebay and you're more than happy with it? Any chance you could tell me the sellers ID? :wacko: I've been having the same problem as you and a fast blast last weekend down to Inverness didn't cure it so I'm looking for a vag-com lead and software to give me a clue.

Disc or something else jammed in it?

Thanks for that, will check it out at the weekend.

How many years should that be?

Would the fact that it hadnt been changed for 3 years make a difference regardless of the mileage? Thanks for the quick reply by the way :16:

Just noticed a problem with our central locking. It happens whether you use the key in the door or the remote. When you lock the car, the rear passenger side inside door handle goes into the 'Locked' position and then the 'Unlocked' position, 'Locked' again and finally 'Unlocked' It doesn't seem to matter if you lock that door with the handle before locking the rest of the doors, it stills unlocks-locks etc : but always remains in the un-locked position. It doesn't matter that much as car crime up here isn't too much a problem.....just now :16: but we're off to Glasgow in June and would prefer it if it were fixed before then Heres hoping someone can help.

Car going in for a service next Monday to a non-Seat garage. I've asked that the timing belt is changed as its nearly 3 years and 30,000 miles since the last one. Its maybe a bit late to ask but is that about the recomended interval or am I being a bit over cautious? Also, how long would it take to change the belt? When I phoned to book it in the YTS'er on the phone reckoned it would be a long job!!! :16: