Galaxy_Quest

Always have the mrs handy and lad gets in after 3pm. Ive had to take the motor for an MOT retest today... last day. The brakes are very firm for first couple of mins after start up but loses a little pressure about 5 mins after. I think a thorough bleed will do it when i get the Gal back... Ford TIS seems to state that bleed fronts one after another, then the rears one after another. If theres any other suggestions I'm all ears !

To answer the question Avenger, You have air in the system ! it is poss lodged somewhere and that is why the pedel is spongy. but as littledaz & Dave say, they don't do it at a garage, and as far as going back into the ABS system, the amount of fluid is only small, it would only go back up the pipe about 6" at the most, so won't get to the abs bit, even with abs systems I have pushed back the pistons with the nipple closed, and then you don't have the problems you have. Just a point, which I did not read, but did you take the piston right out? Radiotwo Hi radio, I pushed the piston as far out as it would go... in fairness I didnt check if this was out 100%, just out as much as I could reasonably get it. sounds like a pain the a*se jon, but looks like I will have to bleed the lines again one by one starting front left and going in a circle... front right, rear right....etc

Hello Wolfie So where is the "crap" as you put it comming from? Radiotwo Radio, I assume u havent flushed brake lines for a while then. You will be aware that when u expel the fluid it is a murkey green / black colour... not the clear yellow colour it should be. Additionally, there is a build up of grime at the piston end. Brake fluid corrodes metal, so over time there is a build up of sediment at the piston end. I dont think anyone wants this sent back round the system... especially towards a highly sensitive ABS block; but saying that it should only go a foot or so but its still not worth the risk. When you fully or partially open the bleed valve the brake fluid will rather go through there than push round the system as the relative resistence is too great. Either way, it seems to be a very good idea and simply a very easy option to flush the brake lines / bleed the system when you change the pads and expel a little displaced old grimey fluid. If the bleed nipple is open and the bleed tube is connected its a few seconds more. The Haynes and TIS manuals seem to agree on this as part of brake replacement or am i wrong on this? So the question is, I may well have forced the rear pistons back in when they were screw ones... but no more force than was required on the fronts... and they went in ok. So looking at post #1, whats the possible reasons for a loss in pressure once all bled and reconnected?

Thanks All, Thanks for the copy and paste radio. Nothing new there, nor anything that helps me with a diagnostic. I thought it may be diagonally split - cheers. The Gal is a Mk2 NOT a Mk1.

Cheers Radio, "Just push the pistons in" Heres the thing.. to move the pistons in requires quite a bit of force so either (1) you need a piston pushing specialist tool or (2) gentle tapping on the old brake pads onto the piston with a little pin hammer or the like to force it back.... it would be great if you could force the brake fluid into the reservoir but if not, then opening the bleed nipple (with bleed pipes connected) is a good way to express the brake fluid which is displaced by the piston. How would you suggest pushing the pistons back in? (For the record, Ford TIS suggests a 12-014 Cailper Piston Expander) ... hence what Wolfie says does make a little bit of sense. If you have the tools it is better as you say NOT to risk allowing air or worse still debris into the system via the calipers / bleed nipple. According to the Ford TIS manual you take apart the whole system! Happy to post excerpts from the TIS if necessary. Either way, when I changed the pads I decided to connect the brake bleeding pipes to allow for the expelling of displaced brake fluid. It takes less than 5 mins per corner to then additionally bleed the brake... the old fluid really is baby nappy green so its no bad thing. Does anyone know about the brake fluid circuits.. .can you do each corner independantly, or fronts then rears or diagonals? Pressure is still low but the system IS NOT failing, the problem should not, I hope, be debris <_<

Bump... need help folks <_<

Couldnt work out the size so i used the kids play dough to make a mold of the fitting. 7mm seems the standard size for Gals. I bought a 7mm hex bolt adapter for my socket set from Hellfrauds.... something like

Hi everybody, According to the Ford TIS manual which I have on disc and instaled on my pc :unsure: it recommends disconnecting the front caliper from the brake hose after clamping it shut. I did do this on the first offside caliper but then realised this was unnecessary. I did let the brake fluid out by loosening the valve and taking the plug off the nipple, otherwise you cant generate the pressure (without a piston pushing screw tool) to push the piston back out in the caliper housing before refitting it oover the new brake pads. I have read somewhere about brake fluid / hydraulic "circuits". Are the fronts one one circuit and the rears on another? I did offside first, swapped the car round then did the driverside after that. Maybe this has caused a problem... who knows...anyone??? We were careful to use clean new brake fluid and not contaminate the system. We used the pedal pumping method with a specialist brake fluid pipe kit from Hellfrauds for

Hi all, Gal failed MOT on brakes and some other bits and bobs. We have a 2.3 Zetec early Mk2 on W plate (2000). Brake Pads: I changed the brake pads on the offside then realised I had to also bleed the system. Silly Ford TIS manual says TOTALLY take apart caliper and brake lines. Later realised didnt need to !!!! Anyway, one by one bled the brake systems using the little nipple on the caliper... kept the fluid topped up under the hood and pumped pedals until no more air in the system and all bubbles (even tiny ones) gone. Bleed valve closed and cap replaced. As work done roadside in front of house, did offside front and back, then moved car so i do the drivers side. Obviousl no proper brake pressure then. Did brake pads for driver side front and back, bleeding system while wheel was off (as above). Took car for spin round block but brake pedal depresses fully and hardly any pressure "pushing back" on pedal. Is there something I have missed ? HELP please folks! MOT retest due tomorrow am. :unsure:

I dont know mate! Anyone else know ?

ARGH!!!! The garage who did the Gal MOT has told me they used the wrong procedure for checking the suspension. But they remarkably say that they stand by the MOT still!!!! On Monday I will know for sure if they will accept the VOSA checklist Neil posted below. What happens if they dont accept the MOT done incorrectly? Cheers :lol:

Neil / guys / gals, Ok.. so i went to the garage and questioned them on the Gal MOT. Apparently, it was done as per "usual" just as u suspected. I politely pointed out the MOT check list and the VOSA standard reminding him that he stated that the rubber struts ends were "collapsed". He was completely defensive and said he "stands by the MOT" - he first said they lift the car with wheels off ground and check the steering... then he said they use an ATL... either way he is going to chat to the "lad" who did the MOT and im calling him on Monday. What if he has done it wrong and wont recognise it... meanwhile ive spent

Neil or any others, What is it im looking for from the VOSA website: Link to VOSA site (as above) Which was the link that was posted above. Is there some special mention of the method of testing the Gal as compared to a "normal" car? Thanks, :16:

Thanks guys, I will go there tomorrow when the parts arrive in the post! Not sure about challenging a local garage.. i will feel like a numnut. But here goes then ! The list means nothing to me but it should to them right? ;)

Are you guys saying there may well be nothing wrong ? How will it be if i go back saying "oi... u hevent checked my car properly" dont get me wrong, once we had a service at our local fords where the checklist was ticked off but in fact nothing was actually done.... talk about dodgy!!! We only found out when we needed to replace a tyre at Kwik Fit and they showed us the brakes were fooked !!!

Hi All, I'm new to this forum so a big hello firstly :lol: Im trying to get you Gal through its MOT (early Mk 2 on a W-plate). On the fail sheet it says that there is "nearside macpherson strut excessive movement at the upper attachment" ...and the same for the offside. After a conversation with the garage, I think this is a reference to the rubber insulator fitted to the strut top mount. Does anyone know how to replace it, where i can buy them or is there a guide kicking about.... Any help most welcome :lol: Cheers