Galaxy_Quest

Sorry to be a dufus... you lost me? What dyu mean?

Thanks for the help on the screechy brake pads.. it was a nightmare to get the pads and calipers off in the first place as I dont have a caliper screw / piston pushing tool :D Right... the springs; here are the pics http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9306/dsc00418in1.th.jpg .... no broken spring ! http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/183/springshq5.th.jpg ... no broken spring and safely in its housing http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8189/dsc00420awc7.th.jpg .... spring and hub all seem ok (but im no expert... please excuse the contrast its a sunny day) So basically, its doesnt appear broken. I trolley jacked up the Gal, took the wheel off and examined the spring. I put the wheel back on. When the Gal was fully lowered and jack removed the ride height was normal again! I opened the boot and bounced the right / drivers side corner up and down on the springs, I also tried sitting in it and bouncing up and down too. It felt normal / bouncy. When I got out, everyone (Mrs and brother) and I could notice that the ride height had DROPPED again! By the time we parked the Gal infront of our garage, the height was back down again! I dont know what's up?! Anyone please....... ???? :angry:

Bumpety bump... anyone?

If that refers to the suspension / macpherson strut mount top (its a rubber insulator with a bearing inside that the shocker strut connects to in the engine housing), I sourced some online for about

Cheers Wolfie, The (2) option was obviously tongue in cheek :D :D I've use of another car in the meanwhile so its not totally dire. What I was saying is exactly where is the screech coming from, I thought it might be the disc-pad contact which may just need cleaning but now it sounds like it may be the piston-pad contact. If the piston face was damaged slightly while changing the pads would this now cause a screech (NB: I wouldnt have thought so). I will jack up the car tomorrow first thing and check the spring. cheers for the heads up on the spring purchases. I will go for a pair unless it is prohibitively expensive. Doesn't sound like too hard a job to do once I have the Trolley Jack (

Argh... its all too much... i dont think she's gonna hold together captain! Unfortunately, can't get under the car tonite, the light has faded but moreso the downstairs toilet is stripped; cistern and pan sitting in the middle of the lounge and there are tubs of adhesive and packs of floor tiles everywhere :D Will do my best to check the Gal tomorrow. If the spring has come out of its housing (somehow!?) or the coil is broken it sounds like I should buy a new PAIR and replace them. I will have to buy a cheapo mc cheapo Trolly Jack from eGay.. seen one at about

Obviously the Gal is knackered.. just look at the pics!!! http://img217.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rear2fl9.jpg wondering if there is a special kind of spring or will any one do?

Thats what I'm saying :D The Drivers side rear has come down about 4 inches or so: http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6826/rear2fl9.th.jpg Is it the spring and is there a way to fix it without using a trolley jack? Is it safe to drive? Do I need to order and replace both sides? er.... definately help and advice needed ! If you know anything about the other issues (squeaky brakes / mount top struts) please also let me know... :angry2:

Have a look for yourselves: http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/2570/rearyg6.th.jpg

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/1427/wipersfa6.th.jpg See, I told you... :angry2:

The work on the front suspension was only the top mount struts.. nothing more exciting that that. Altogether: front top mount strut insulators changed - both sides(by garage) offside anti roll link bar changed (by me) all brake pads changed (by me) brake fluid bled (by me) Problems I now have: drivers side rear corner has collapsed (wheelarch still clears wheel) squeaking from steering wheel brakes are intolerably squeaky / screeching when applying brakes Should I change BOTH rear springs and is it something I should do myself. Don't have a trolley jack but do have spring compressors. I have also read something about spring 'ratings'.. do i need to know more?

Front strut top mount insulators were changed... its the rear drivers side that this relates to. Problemo... I dont have a trolley jack! Spring compressors.... yes A normal jack.. yes Trolley jack... no. So any other way to do it? 'Trailing Arm' I assume this means the drivers side rear axel / wheel thingy im working on and would have just taken the anti roll link bar off ? (Dont know the lingo sorry... just learning!) Next... I read something on this forum about spring 'ratings' or something, is this something i have to be aware of and do i need to change both springs or just the one? Lastly... is the Gal still driveable / safe to use?

Front strut top mount insulators were changed... its the rear drivers side that this relates to. Next... I dont have a trolley jack, spring compressors. yes.... a normal jack.. yes.. .trolley jack... no. So any other way to do it?

Is this something I can repair myself and does anyone know what (specialist) tools I might need?

Hi all, Did some work on the Gal for recent MOT... changed brakes and bled brake fluid at same time. At first there were some brake "pressure" issues but this has resolved itself :( The garage then changed the front Macpherson Strut insulation rubber mounts (eventually) in the engine housing. Gal passed MOT :D But now.... driving about today collecting some DIY stuffs with rear seats removed (u know the thing, done it a thousand times!) and the Gal is sitting down low over the rear drivers side. Clearance over drivers side rear wheel arch is less than offside; when driving there is a crunching / "chk-chk" noise :lol: as if something is hitting something else When I go over speed bumps the rear doesnt feel anywhere near as elevated as it should do, sitting low on ground, no "bounce" :( Any advice please folks?

Its a usual 2.3 Zetec Gal, year 2000 early mk 2 on a W plate. Couldn't find any blown fuses but will change #34 anyway ... assuming fuse #34 is the correct one to change that is? Other than that any other ideas assuming its not the resistor pack..... <_<

Its ok mumble, we all have those days. Most of mine are like that nowadays. I'll check fuse #34 i think top row is 1-26, bottom is 27-whatever. What is the resistor pack, how do i find and and how do i replace it... is it easy, cheap or is there some guide please? !!!

PS - i called the local Ford garage to find out the cost of the parts which i then sourced online... they said that the strut tops (the rubber mounts with the bearing thingy inside) are a regular issue... although there again i dont trust them one as far as i could pick up the whole dealership and throw it

It was today when the garage phoned to me to say they (the macpherson strut tops) are definately knackered and that I should come down and inspect the car if i wasnt sure. [A] I wouldnt know what im looking at from under the car as the unit is part in and out of the enging housing from the TIS, but I could blag it... can anyone tell me what im looking for even... apparently he said they are "collapsed" i dont know what that means... it sounds a bit bullshtty to be honest and He has had a careful warning from me about the standard of their MOT and what is the right checklist to use. Doesnt mean hes doing it right though i accept. I'm wondering if it really is a one hour per corner job as he is saying it is... and finally we live in a heavy heavy speed bump area. Had the car for 5 years and its had non stop speed bump pounding at the rate of 5k+ miles per year (and then another 5k motorway miles a year). If the work is a cup of tea i should do it myself and not pay

Hi all, My wife and i did this job about 3 months ago... we used a blow torch to free up the seized grease / clog. But we have a problem.. we were left with a strange issue when we replaced the linkage (ps what a pain in the backside to get it in and out!) The wipers dont sit properly. One seems to have a reduced wiping arc ... so the passenger side one is fine, the drivers side sits about 6 inches up the window at rest. We tried adjusting it from the screw where the wipers attach over the bonnet... but no good. Cant figure it out! It looks really crap. <_<

Having one of those periods of time where everything is buggered. No blower lights, no heating / blowers, no aircon... the bit near the stereo.... stereo and other bits look fine. ....fuses checked all seem ok Anyone any ideas?

Just looked at the TIS manual... Can you replace the rubber strut insulator (connects to engine bay housing) without taking the whole thing apart? The TIS only shows its removal as part of removing and installing a new suspension. http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2107/untitledyf5.jpg

Update: Have changed the brake pads (separate thread under technical about the brake pressure 'issues'). Car has gone back to the MOT garage today, they looked at it according to the new test guidelines posted on here and they assure me that the rubber strut ends are collapsed. They want

Hi Radio, No offence taken; the Mrs is a very strong woman so i have no concerns there, but my 14 yr old lad is on the slight side. I think a thorough re-bleed is needed when i get the car back tomorrow. <_<