Galaxy_Quest

It doesn't seem to be in "limp home mode" just a little sluggish at low speeds - but it has been for a couple of years since a particular "service". Gears and revs all seem normal.

The engine fans come on when it gets hot. We had them replaced a year ago when they were making a rattling noise. It now sounds like a hovercraft coming down the road after about 20 mins on the road. The temp sensor was located externally to the right of the head, it has a clip and push fits into the pipework. Don't know about the auto diff - the car is very very sluggish between 0 - 40mph. I read somewhere that the octane rating (or something like that) can be set at the wrong level for the 2.3 Gals especially from a service. It used to be nippy, now sluggish and we have the overheating thing.

The pipes are getting hot, so I assume the pump is working. When I changed the in-line thermostat, I disconnected the pipes going to the reservoir tank to check there were no blocks in those pipes and the water seemed to be pumping out in a rhythm. I don't know if that is evidence the pump is ok or not. Had to drive down the motorway yesterday, windows open, blowers going. It goes over 90 degrees when I go above 70mph (not that I ever do, of course!!).

Hi guys, sorry for the delay in responding. The coolant levels are pretty static after all the air has worked itself out of the system. The only way we can keep the Gal from overheating when we drive more than about 40 mins is to have the blowers on full blast, drawing very hot air into the car and then windows open. Not great in the summer. When the fans come on, it sounds like the hovercraft in Southsea in Portsmouth has come in to land. Any ideas anyone?

Thanks Sparky Paul and the others - silly questions welcome, sometimes its how we get stuff done. Mrs drove the car, heaters on full blast windows open. Kept the temp at 90. Will check in the morning on the coolant levels. I have to the best of my knowledge put the thermostat in the right way up based on the way the old one was put in. Will try and post pics.

Thanks for the replies folks. Went to my friend's garage today and he recommended changing the temperature sensor - which we did. Its an external piece mounted in the pipework to to the right of the head. Could have been a quick cheap fix but alas, 30 mins later it overheated on the way home. There is no sign of coolant in the oil or exhaust, the coolant doesn't seem to be pressurising. The pipes are getting hot and water appears to be circulating well (if I disconnect a hose it pumps coolant out). We have a new ford main dealer ordered in-line thermostat and temp. sensor. Still no ideas what's causing the over heating. We will be risking a 40 minute drive. Windows open, heaters on full blast this weekend!

Hi folks, Hope you can help - need some technical minds on this. Background A couple of weeks ago our Mk2 Galaxy 2.3 petrol (W reg, 154k), overheated for the first time reaching the maximum and the warning STOP! light coming on. I stopped, rested, then pootled to a local garage 3 mins away. A pipe had more or less exploded, emptying out coolant everywhere. I figured out that was the "in-line" thermostat housed in the coolant pipework T-junction at the rear of the engine bay (under the wipers / cowling). Problem I have now replaced it (3 awkward spring clips). The plastic was quite degraded and brittle in the pipes. I have topped up the coolant a couple of times. The car is still overheating, not on idle, but during driving after about 30 minutes. There is no coolant smell in the exhaust and no cloudy oil to suggest any head failures. I took it for a spin yesterday let it cool overnight. The coolant needs topping up (reservoir at minimum), but that could well be from replacing the part yesterday. Car heats up to normal, as per usual, then after about 20 mins of driving slowly creeps up to max temperature. Pipes get warm / hot. Fans kick in at the right time. If I switch the car off and let it rest for 5 mins, temp gauge returns to normal. History Aircon has been down for years, we had condenser / compressors / regas, spent virt.

Good grief. Oxymoron time again. BTW the postage is going to be a bit more than 25p. If you put off not changing the battery any more you might find youll bugger the alternator as well. Sounds like a plan.... money is a bit of an issue, but cant afford to kill the alternator too. A reasonable battery seems to be min 540 CCA & 60Ah. Helfrauds =

Your battery is ready for the trip to the dump. BUY A NEW BATTERY. The screech is because the battery is flat and the alternator is struggling to charge it, the load is too great, and the belt is slippling. A new battery will sort the problem. Its not rocket science. :16: Regarding fan problems - See here for one (of a few) example of fan resistor thread Thanks SEATKID, We are getting sick and tired of this battery problem.... The car wont hold charge overnight anymore. A few days ago, the battery wouldnt hold charge overnight, but after a jump first thing in the morning, it struggled through the day. Now it wont hold charge at all. We jumped it this morning (as usual over the last week); left it running 10 mins. Wife went to ADSA and 40 mins later it was flat again... I had to take the daughters car there to rescue her!!! Lets hope its as simple as the battery then.... time to source a good cheap one... ebay anybody?

Unless we are talking about this: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...10&hl=relay 30&st=15 Replacing Relays 27 , 30 and so on? When I start the Gal we get lights, click, allllllmost starts then gradually less and less turnover - now we are having to jump start her daily!!! ARgh!

Hi, So are you saying its not the alternator belt but the battery??? Whats causing the noise then? Also cant find stuff on a blown resistor pack :huh:

Guys / Gals / Geniuses, Could any of these issues lead to the the car battery going flat over night (almost every night) ??

Thanks for the advice. I will check these things out this weekend and report back to let you know. :wacko:

Hi All, I have trawled through the aircon sections but cant find an exact match for our problem. Hopefully someone experienced will recognise the problem. Gal is W-reg Mk2 2.3 zetec petrol. History: Major (

Hi guys, While im posting probs, the old Gal is being really REALLY sluggish to start moving after turning on. Before the service she was very quick out of the blocks, now the first few seconds are very poor... you would think the hand brake was fully up. Any ideas? :lol:

Hi Tiny, Just spent a ridiculous amount of money at the last service... it was either that or bail out a failing UK financial institution. Drop links were changed then. They tend to cause a rattle because of the give... just thinking about the creak... suspension? Rubber mounts?

Hi guys, Been a while since I have been on. Background:We took the old gal in to a garage a while back. Apparantly the rubber bush mounts on the top of the suspension struts in the engine bay needed changing. At the time one was REALLY stuck. I remember seeing in a manual that it should be loosened using the hex head on a wratchet and a spanner ... NOT grabbing it from below and from the top at the same time. It can get damaged because of the torque / twisting force. Well surprise surprise! The garage numpties raised it onto a ramp and as he said "we tried as hard as we could using the mole grips from below". At that time he was trying to convince me to change the suspension but we couldnt afford it at the time. I was concerned that they may have twisted the suspension strut. A little while after, we used to get an intermittent squeak. Now a year later, there is a really loud squeak mainly from the passenger corner. We think its also coming from the drivers side too but not so much. Stopping, starting, in fact any movement and it sounds horrendously squeaky... like a really bad, old, creaky door. Question: Im wondering... - is it the same thing? - is there a cheap quick fix I can do? - what else could it be? - how much to get properly fixed (or should I attempt myself) ? Any advice MUCH appreciated guys. Thanks. :wacko:

Good point... ill try and ake it a bit smaller :lol: A quick dabble on adobe paintshop cs... im a bit pants with paintshop in all fairness

Check it out... :lol:

No offence taken Tiny :) Then it must be that the pads dont fit properly.. .they are far too tight. Removing and throwing away the anti-squeal clips was not too good an idea... my conscience was bugging me at the time - should have kept them just in case!!! I thought they were spacers :lol: I think I will take it to Fords or Kwik Fit to get the brakes seen to properly... its too much headache (or should I not give up... ive learnt how to do it now and bought a Trolley Jack !!! :lol:) And... oh yes... I updated my sig... hope u like it folks B)

Cheers for all the good advice so far folks! So question: File down the pads to fit (which should take about 300 years) or buy new ones and the anti-squark clips?

The pads were E11 rated and be assured they were put the right way around :) they were just a very VERY snug fit (i.e. needed convincing with a pin hammer and I had to take out the metal shoulders that were installed with the other worn out pads). I think this is the screeching... the snug fit of the pads and their reluctance to "spring" in and out properly. Anyone have any further ideas about the adjustment of the brake cable to stop the old Gal from sitting down? As I said, the caliper seems to tight as the wheel wont spin freely.

Hi guys, Thanks for the advice so far :) The rear suspension is "better" now... i think its related to the handbrake. When I bounced it on Monday it was down and no bouncebackability at all. the corner has been jacked a couple of times today and now it sits ok?!!!?? Weird huh! I used generic brake pads which I bought from an eGay shop (

Think i've clocked it. Sometimes it is up... sometimes down. At the minute it is up / normal. When I did the pads all round, I think I must have dislodged / misaligned the driverside rear handbrake cable. With the car in 'park', handbrake off, wheels chocked... I jacked that drivers rear side up. When I tried to spin the wheel the caliper / pad was grinding against the disc. It did spin but not freely. So sounds like I have to copper grease all the pads / calipers and at the same time somehow adjust the brake on that side. Does anybody know what I have done wrong in relation to the brake cable and how I fix it?

Mmmm, The problem came about when driving to/from the garden centre on Monday morning. When we left it was fine. When we came home after an hour, the drivers side rear was sitting 4 inches lower and the suspension felt non-existant especialy when going over speed bumps near our house. We had a light-moderate load in the rear of the car. Will try your idea but I dont think it will work because the drivers side is knackered despite the offside.