Xenonman

Just buy a CMAX Ghia, its got an electronic handbrake :lol: :o

The Tomtom GPS receiver which I have requires 2A, I would like to keep it in the storage cabinets because as I said in my previous post, it works very well hidden in there, I have a lock on at least 7 satellites if not more. The Tomtom GPS receiver is pretty much state of the art IMO, it even works in the house, closeish to a window and I have had it working in the glovebox too. I have a 100m Class 3 bluetooth dongle on the front USB port on my pc, I can connect to the GPS in the car 20m away outside and get a fix on Autoroute 2004 as well.

I have HID's on my Galaxy. They are easy to take out and replace providing that you have the correct tools. ie. a long TORX driver with at least a 20cm long shaft. I had to switch the beam down to level as i live on the continent and managed to have both units in and out in 45 minutes. I will be happy to take one out in the near future and post some pics of how its done. Ian

Where is the easiest place to wire in a Bluetooth GPS receiver? I have a permanent power cable supplied with the kit with a fuse built in but I'm getting a new vehicle in September, so I need a semi permanent solution that I can remove when I sell the motor. It is currently powered by the cigarrette lighter socket but this looks messy. If there was a way to keep the receiver in the dashboard storage cabinets whilst having it wired in, this would be helpful as it works really well in them, as well as being out of sight from prying eyes. Thanks Ian

Somebody with the TIS CD will probably be able to help on this one, Im still wating for mine to arrive.

I have also found that the rear doors do not close easily, I can't just push them to close as they end up on the latch. They need to be closed with purpose. slightly annoying.

Basically, you can use the fully synthetic Shell Helix Ultra X 0W-30 on VW/Audi PD & petrol engines with extended drain intervals, 2 years or 50000 km-30000 miles servicing intervals. this applies from 2000 but only on certain vehicles. The Shell Helix Diesel Plus VA (note the VA) 5W-40 is partially synthetic & specifically designed for VW/Audi PD engines with or without Turbo. Not to be used for extended drain intevals. It fulfils the requirements according to Ford (M2C 917A), VW (505.01) as well as B3-98 ACEA and API CF. This is a basic translation of the info on this page http://www.shell-helix.de/ek/artikelsubp_ek_472.html Just thought it might clear some issues.

Hell, as much as that!! The German Ford dealer is doing a set of 4 ghia alloys with continental tyres included for

?????

Does the VW Sharan or the Alhambra have blind spot mirrors that would fit the Galaxy. I wouldn't mind getting hold of a nearside mirror with the blind spot curve on it.

Trouble is SA, they are more expensive that Ford but i suppose i could get the German 16% tax if the price is over

Don't worry Ivor, I haven't put any in. I think I will nip to the ford garage and get a litre of the proper stuff for topping up.

My boss recently got a galaxy with the elegance pack, 17" rims ect, he says the ride is harder than his previous 03 ghia which had 16" rims and that he bumped up on to a kerb whilst parking and took a nice chunk out of the front offside rim. Ouch!!

Probably about

Thanks for that, seeing as I live in Germany, I shouldn't have any prob getting VW 505.01 oil. <_<

Don't forget the red plastic 3 spoiler covers for the wiper blades!! :lol: <_< :lol:

Is it ok to use Castrol GTX5 Magnatec on the Pumpe Duese Diesel engines, the rating is SAE 10W-40 * API SL/CF * ACEA A3/B3 * VW-Norm 505 00?

Oh yeah, must have 17" alloys but i only got 8" brake discs <_< :lol:

Muppets!!!

When you say Belt Theory, i take it that you mean the drive belt slipping? I checked the alternator it is, or it says on the white label, 120A made in GB. Probably be better if it came from Eastern Europe!

The car was bought new in September last year, the battery is original and holds its charge well, got to be the alternator that is faulty but why wont it do it when the engine is warm??

Ah yes I just tried that, you don't need to put the key in the lock, just press the lock button twice on the remote, that disables the alarm and deadlock.

I had it to the dealers and they couldn't find any error code. I noticed as the engine gets warmed up and the battery gets charged it won't do the warning. But as i have mentioned in earlier posts, it is so intermittent.

To lock the car without alarm and no deadlocking turn key in lock 45 deg left then 90 deg left in quick succession, the LED will flash once on the first turn but not on the second turn....Done!

Since my last post i have managed to catch the alternator warning whilst i had a digital voltmeter connected through the cigarette lighter socket. For a start, it only does it when the engine is cold and when the vehicle is moving. It wont do it whilst stationary. There is a noticable rise in voltage on the meter before it beeps and the battery icon illuminates. Normal driving with heater fans on, radio and headlights is around 14.3v, the voltage will rise to 14.7v then the warning will sound, voltage goes down to 12.6v then back up to 14.3 ish. Its like some sort of cutoff happening, thing is getting it to do it while the dealer has it, I'm even thinking of videoing it with the DV cam so the dealer can see it happening, voltage meter and all. I really need this fixing cos it is annoying.