BrianAll

Great, thanks Sparky. I think I fancy the Avon's overall. Earlier in the week I was pannicking as I thought I should get some before MOT. In the end I gambled and the car passed MOT but got an advisory note saying 'rear tyre close to legal limit' so will get them done over next few days. Cheers, Brian

Idea: MAF sensor. Disconnect the lead going into the sensor at the side of the air cleaner (about 10 o'clock position as you look into engine bay). Start the engine, if high revving has stopped you're on the right track. For further MAF info, read the extensive postings on the topic elsewhere on this great technical forum. Cheers, Brian

Hi, purchased a pair on Monday 4 Feb at local parts supplier Panks of Norwich as I had MOT today. (Passed, phew!) Brand details: Valeo, 2 blades with metal frame and plastic clips. Replaced in a couple of minutes the 2 curved Bosch ones already on. Cost:

Hi, read the ample threads about tyres, noted down the names good/bad etc, then get to tyre bay and he gives me a good quote (

Quick update: part received today from VW. It is the right part. Will fit it Saturday in the daylight, and take a couple of snaps. Chuffed to have saved a load of cash. Brian

Hello, I live in Norwich and am looking to have a diagnostic check over our R reg Galaxy MK I 1997/8 1.9 TDi. Fords want

Hi, just thought I would update. Phoned plenty of car dismantlers and scrap dealers around Norwich and found 1 with a Galaxy. He wanted

Hello, keen to replace like for like when I phoned round for prices on Saturday so ended up getting new MAF at VW dealership for what I thought was a good price of

Hello, thanks for replies. I purchased new Bosch MAF from local VW dealer for

Thanks Sher and Willie. I went to FAQ's after you suggested the MAF, then unplugged as suggested, and went for a spin. No change while driving, so sounds like MAF. The revving at start-up wasn't happening once MAF was disconnected, giving me more faith that it is the MAF. Now I will do the rounds with the local Ford and VW dealers and motor factors to see how cheap I can buy a new MAF for. Thanks for your help. Will post after I've replaced it to confirm outcome. I'm looking forward to my 90 BHP Diesel suddenly start to 'perform like a ferrari' when the MAF is changed, as suggested by another form poster elsewhere. I hope that doesn't mean 'spend loads of time in Ferrari garage being repaired'. Cheers, Brian

Hi, tonight after a 50 mile trip and a short break I started the engine of 90 BHP Diesel and the revs went up quite high when I started as if I'd put my foot hard on accelerator (say up to 3-4,000 revs) then ticked over fine i.e. just the one quick burst of high revs when turned over first time. Once started journey if felt very sluggish going up through the gears and was almost flooring it to get up to 70 mph. Feels as if the turbo is not helping out in the normal way. Haven't been driving it hard or heard any bangs/noises, etc. Have you got any ideas please ? Thanks, Brian p.s. just clocked over the 120,000 miles mark today during the trip. Coincidence ? Celestine Prophecy ? ;)

Hi, purchased star shaped torx bit to undo the handle and after a bit of jiggling the handle came off easily. Slid off circlip and gently seperated the relevant parts (spring loaded so liable to spring around if released). Indeed found a mechanical breakdown within the lock unit. The alloy bit that leads from the barrel to the central locking plastic bit, had broken into 4 bits at the fragile end. I plan to move the passenger side lock to the drivers side tomorrow, then get a repair kit as suggested,. Before buying a kit fror

Great, thanks everybody. I will try and get the handle off tomorrow. I think I saw a star screw that needs to come undone. I'll go down to Panks in Norwich tomorrow and see if they have a tool to get this undone or off to Ford and see how amusing their price is. Thanks big_Kev for the link to past posting and the FAQ link in your signature. Took me to Mk I door card removal if I need to go that far. Someone posted to say that if tight/hard-up can swap the locks over from passnger side. Appeals to me that one so will try and get key out first then look at swapping the locks over. Thanks again, will let you know how I get on. While I'm here, Onslow, did you get to the bottom of your noise problem on your 1998 recent purchase ? Cheers, Brian

key will turn to the left a bit more (to lock the central locking) but won't return to the upright position (12 o'clock) to enable the key to come out. Has been a bit tight when drawing the key out this last few weeks, but now its totally stuck. Have been able to use spare key to unlock car from passenger side and able to drive away, but can't get the key out of drivers door. Is anybody able to help with some tips or pointers please ? Thanks, Brian (Norwich) :D

Yes, you're right. MOT fail if light is on or if light doesn't work. Fortunately the mechanic I use to prepare car for MOT was aware of this and so checked out the ABS and identified a broken CV joint ABS ring (as per the many Forum posts on the subject by many other owners). Mechanic was able to fix the ring well enough to get the MOT pass and I will now source a new CV joint to replace his repair. Thanks again to the vast Forum fountain of knowledge. Happy for another year, Cheers, Brian

Hi, just spent over an hour on ready the search results from 'ABS light' and reckon the CV ring is the culprit. The car is with the MOT mechanic as I am typing ths, so lets hope he is smart and refers to this Forum if he doesn't already know. I should have looked on the Forum earlier. I thought the answer to my problem would be to get hold of VAG-com, but now I realise I just need to be more patient and make more time to read through the Forum postings. Thanks guys, will keep you posted. Cheers, Brian

Thanks Nik and Shane, as soon as I lifted the tailgate I could see the black plastic socket/cover that clips into the metal of the tailgate had popped out, and the 10-15 wires that the rubber boot contains were all getting nipped/crushed each time the tail is closed. 2 had severed completely and 6 or 7 were intact but bearing exposed wires. I reconnected the broken wires and went mad with the insulation tape on all the others. Result: high level brake light now works again. Thanks for your help. As usual I should have got onto this as soon as the light came on instead of stressing about it for 6 months. The red handbrake light still comes on after car gets to about 15mph. I thought this would not happen once I'd fixed the high level light. The ABS light still comes on and stays on from starting (I think the front nearside sensor needs attention). I am guessing that now the rear ligh level light is fixed the reason for the red light coming on after 15mph is due to the ABS not working, so when I get the ABS light to go out the red one will stop coming on. These things are sent to try us. Cheers, Brian :lol:

Thanks Nik, I will start there now. Will post what I find. Cheers, Brian

If someone near has already bought the lead and software would they like to help me run a test on my 98 1.9 90HP please. ABS sensor and rear brake light are 2 faults that I know of as they are dash lights glowing each journey. If VAG-com can help me locate the fault (which corner, etc) and notify of any other faults I would appreciate it, and pay of course. Better to keep the money amongst ourselves rather than handing it over to the Frordster's. Thanks, Brian

Hello. Forum very useful in helping me track down my 'Relay 109' problem at end of last year. Today's problem is high level light not working. Have read other postings about broken wire in tailgate. Can anyone who has tracked down their broken wire tell me where they found the break, just to help me get to the problem quicker please ? Looks like I could be there for hours trying to track it down. A few pointers would be appreciated. Thanks, Brian (Norwich)

Thanks Martin. Since I posted the question I have been using the search option and found a question posted in 2004 'where is the glow plug relay' and one of the replies was kind enough to show a photo of the relay. It sits at the far right of the bottom row, on layer 3. Yes, yu're right, mine is numbered 103. Thanks. I will now undo tie clips, take off layer 2 to get to layer 3 and take out the offending relay. On another post from seach I saw that the relay problems are often down to poor soldering within the relay, so I am hoping this is the case with mine, it will save me

Thanks Martin. Since I posted the question I have been using the search option and found a question posted in 2004 'where is the glow plug relay' and one of the replies was kind enough to show a photo of the relay. It sits at the far right of the bottom row, on layer 3. Yes, yu're right, mine is numbered 103. Thanks. I will now undo tie clips, take off layer 2 to get to layer 3 and take out the offending relay. On another post from seach I saw that the relay problems are often down to poor soldering within the relay, so I am hoping this is the case with mine, it will save me

Howdy, new member, looked in a few times but this is my first post. After 3rd RAC call-out the last patrolman said he thought I had a 'sticky relay'. It buzzes a bit when ignition switched on, sometimes. When it has broken down the glow plug light on dash didn't come on at all. Lived with this for 6 months or so and had 3rd call-out this week. Previous man said get it to your main dealer, and left me thnking I had a loose wire. Sounded like 100's of pounds of diagnostic spend so I put off going. Getting to the point: the Owners guide says Relay R12 is the one I need to replace, I've just lowered the fuse/relay cluster from the dash and am presented with 4 rows of relays (some empty slots) and lots of numbers ranging from 53 to 168. Does anyone know which one is the glow-plug relay please ? Thanks, Brian (Norwich) ;)