Ex-Galaxy person

Thanks Dave - I'll take another look.... Phillip

Hi All, This is linked to ye olde and well documented booster heater issue....mine actually works, but it has to be really cold before it kicks in. I'm hoping we're past the really cold weather now (but next week looks a bit chilly though!), and I'd like to improve the way the booster operates before next winter. I've read several posts about bypassing the external temperature sensor during the winter, or fitting a parallel switch; however, I can't locate my temp sensor. It doesn't appear to be on the passenger wiper linkage. I have found what looks like a temp sensor at the front of the engine bay, held by a loose plastic clip just by the n/s headlight. Is this it? I have a late Mk1 TDi Zetec 110BHP (2000 W reg). Did the location of the temp sensor change with the MkII model? cheers, Phillip

Cheers - that means mine works as it should. :ph34r:

Hi, I've read loads of posts on this and done some searches - just want to make sure I've got this right..... Booster heater is supposed to come on when: Ambient air temperature < 5-10 degrees or engine coolant temperature is below 75 degrees. Is this correct? I ask because mine only comes on when the air temp is cold - it seems to disregard engine temp. If the statement above is correct, the booster should fire up on a cold engine, even in warmer weather...right? In which case, I've got a duff coolant sensor (wherever that is - temperature gauge on dash is working. Sorry to ask this - everything I've read so far confirms the cold weather bit, but not so sure about engine/coolant temp. I've got a 2000 Mk1 Zetec TDi. cheers, Phillip

How different is a PD to a standard TDi? I've got a 2000 W reg TDi Zetec Mk1 - which I know is 110. I've been told that all the engines are basically the same - it's just the ECU that changes the power output. Is this right? cheers, Phillip

Booster heater was working for the first time this morning - it made a real difference. It didn't seem to work last night, but maybe it was too warm. Anyway, the point is that it worked without being reset by VAGCOM - which I'm pleased about but also surprised! Thanks to everyone who's posted on this, and apologies for slightly hijacking this thread........

Cheers Wolfie. Anyone with VAGCOM in the Whitstable, Kent area? Phillip

On the same topic...... Garage replaced my booster heater glow plug today; they are a family firm and they did this under their own warranty (bought car July last year). However, it's still not working. They don't have VAGCOM, and I'm wondering if the fault codes need resetting (always assuming it was the glow plug - seems 90% likely). I've read that you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15-20 mins - is this likey to reset the fault codes? I'm going to try this tomorrow, but if anyone can confirm this that would be great. cheers, Phillip

Hi All, Santa bought me a SatNav for Christmas, and I'm having lots of fun with it (I'm easily amused). It's a TomTom One (v2) At the moment, I've got it mounted using the supplied windscreen mount, which isn't ideal (for me). I'd prefer to mount it on the dash; TomTom do a multi-mount kit, priced about

Hi All, I've done a search on the forum and found something similar to my problem, so I think I know what to look at, but I also thought I'd see if anyone else had this particular issue. Model is a 2000 W Reg Mk 1 Galaxy 1.9 TDi Zetec. Front wipers do work, but they are always on the "fast" speed; intermittent works as intermittent, but the sweep is fast; continuous speed one is exactly the same as speed 2 (i.e. "fast" sweep). From other posts ( http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=1918) it seems that the problem is likely to be found in the wiper motor control electronics, which are part of the motor itself. I can't see of any mechanical reason why the wipers would run faster, and it must be the control unit that is controlling the speed. Anybody agree/disagree with this? I assume that the next course of action would be to replace the whole motor unit (I understand the motor/control electronics are one part). thanks, Phillip

I did wonder about heat dissipation (not just spoiling the looks !). I suppose it would be OK on the basis that steel rims aren't as well ventilated as the alloys (and I doubt the brakes are different on different trim levels) but it's definitely something to think about. cheers, Phillip

Hi All, I've searched the forum and found loads of advice on cleaning the brake dust off the alloys. I'm neither vain nor a heavy braker, but dust does seem to accumulate on the front alloys. I wondered if there was some kind of circular shield/guard available, that would sit between the wheel and the hub and maybe reduce the amount of dust that ends up on the alloy. I guess the risk is that the wheel would stop looking sexy - not that I'm vain at all :) . Even though it's a family car I like the alloys and the privacy glass. So, does such a product exist, or should I just clean them more regularly? Phillip p.s. On a separate note, I finally got the digital clock to illuminate (see separate post). I did nothing, bar take it right apart, put it back together, and push the connector hard in. It is illuminated all the time when the ignition is on, but you can't actually see that it's illuminated in daylight - only at night - which is the whole point.......

Hi All, I've searched and read all the threads on this topic; my problem is that the backlight on my digital clock doesn't work (and hasn't in the 3 months I've had the car). To date, here's what I've done: 1. Replaced the bulb - still dark. 2. Check the wiring - 12V juice is there (via pin 4 - thanks to Andeeeh for info) going in the the back of the connector, when the lights are switched on, and not when they are off (i.e. expected behaviour). 3. Checked a replacement clock unit from a breaker with a good bulb - exactly the same problem. I'm now thinking it's the connector that goes in to the clock not making the right contact with the pin on the clock itself; my other idea is to take the clock right apart and bridge the PCB between the pin and the bulb mount. Any other ideas/experience before I get the soldering iron out? The final option is to just live with it, but now I know it should be backlit it's bugging me...... ;) cheers, Phillip

Cheers Andy - the bulb's good and there's juice going through the wire when the lights are on (and not when the lights are out) so I diagnose a faulty clock. eBay here I come...... :) Phillip

Hi, I've had my 2000 (W) Galaxy 19.TDi for over 3 months now, and I love it (Mk1) I have the same problem as on the original post - in fact, the clock has never illuminated; however, I have replaced the bulb and it still no longer works - with or without the lights on. I've checked the bulb and it's good. If someone can answer the following, I'd be grateful: 1. What is the correct behaviour: clock only illuminates when lights are on, or all the time? 2. Any idea what each pin in the connector does? If the answer to q1 (above) is it "only works with the lights switched on", then I'm assuming I should see a voltage on one of the connector pins when I turn the lights on - question is, which pin? Pins are labelled as follows: KL15 KL30 KL31 KL58b 3. Should I just get a new clock? Clock itself works fine - but now I know it should illuminate, it's bugging me.... thanks all, Phillip