mike634949

Maybe a loose connection at the blower, spare wheel winch can be bought pretty reasonably from ebay, look out for sellers who are breaking Galaxy's. Blower bearings will have become tight - its almost impossible to oil them. There seems to be an overload cutout which permits short time working for a while as the bearing tightens up over time. Replacement of the unit is really easy - get a motor from ebay. Mk1 and Mk2 are ident. Make sure sender packs the fan carefully. The moulded on plastic impeller is brittle and easily trashed in the post

If there is no fan at all (all four speeds) - first check the fuse. If the fuse is okay its probably the motor. You can get them on ebay (but they're vulnerable in the post due to the brittle plastic fan). Fitting it though is really simple - a 10 minute job. Resistor packs tend to fail three out of four speeds but leave you with speed 4 only.

Due to 10 years of standing rainwater in the MacPherson strut upper cups, the top nuts are now completely corroded beyond recognition. I've read elsewhere here that its possible to remove the nuts with a Dremel - presumably grinding as close to the strut as possible and then splitting the remaining fragment away with a chisel ?? This apparently does not require spring compressors. Is the strut itself then in a usable condition, or is it two new struts time due to damaged/corroded threads ? Lastly can anyone recommend a garage that has done this work for them with satisfactory results (W.London based ) cheers Mike

Not an answer to your question - but it may help to know that you can keep the fans running constantly by having the air-con switched on. Others here will tell you that that anything below the red is okay. I don't agree, since my 2.3 used to be 'rock steady' on the temp gauge - but now behaves like yours. I've changed both sensors & stat. No change - so maybe they're right after all ! An OBD2 code reader will tell you the temperature if you can access one. Mine max's at 96C before fans cut in...Mike

Check top of front suspension struts which collect rainwater and completely rust out. Very hard to get to these - try poking in a wick and see if it comes out wet. Front jacking points also worth scrutiny. Wiper mechanism very common failing - check yours are still free moving. Good price - nice looking car.

Can anyone say with authority what the coolant fan switching temp should be on a 98 2.3 manual ? I just plugged in my newly acquired ElmScan 5 OBD2 gizmo to find that mine is switching at 95/96 C . I've always susupected this is far too hot - if so how did the errant value get into the ECU - and how can I get it reset ?? regards Mike

Thanks to seatkid, Bleeno, mikej and others, The following is a list of faults noticed since January. Combine any combination. reluctance to start rapid led flashing no other sympoms immobiliser red led warning light led signalling a fault 2:3 Two audible bleeps heard one long, one short long cranking time - no start three long audible bleeps from the dash noted that PATS seemed happy with a battery voltage of about 12.5v+ - always started with a booster battery attached here's the remedy: fit new relay 27 ... all symptoms gone instantly my theory: either poorly seated relay, or internally failing (sticking?) relay became increasing sensitive to battery voltage

I have noticed that the PATS seems happy with a battery voltage of about 12.5v+ . I think the battery is draining more than it should. I measured a constant drain of 90mA. Is there reason to suspect an alternator diode fault ?

Thanks, The fuel pump arrears to prime each time . The car is a 2.3 Manual Dec98 Two days ago the battery voltage was 12.84 just after stopping the engine Today 12.2 v prior to attempting to restart - which it was reluctant to do 14.4 v whilst idling, and 12.84v after just turning off the ignition Two attempted starts today .... long cranking time - no start - release key - three long audible bleeps from the dash - what do these mean ? No PATS led fault indication !! Third time started - no bleeps, no PATS fault led The falling battery voltage persuaded me to change the battery for new in the first place.... now do I suspect something else ??

Thanks for the reply Not sure what noise to listen for re primimg fuel pump ? Yesterday car cranked for about 6 - 7 seconds before I released key. I got no sense it was about to fire. Released key. Usual manic flashing from led. Two audible bleeps heard one long, one short - never heard before. Turned key again, engine started for 1 second and promptly cut, two bleeps again. Third try - started normally - no bleeps - no flashing - ran normally. The problem is definitely getting worse.

I lubed mine but the startup squeal soon returned. Eventually bought a pattern replacement from Cafco for about

Help still required for this problem please Car seems to crank a little longer whenever this fault code appears on the PATs/immobiliser LED. It doesn't always appear. I replaced the car battery to no avail. I have found very little on the net re PATS faultcodes - but one did suggest that 23 = "the response between pump control unit and powertrain" Could this point towards a sticking/failing relay 27 ? Does TIS have anything on PAT faultcodes ? cheers MS

Just noticed your post. To the day we seem to have developed identical faults on 2.3 's. Mine is manual, and has no other faults apparent. Also seeking info re the 2:3 fault code. Stay in touch !

The drivers door immobiliser red led warning light has started signalling a fault 2:3 The car otherwise behaves normally. Can anyone tell me what the fault means ? Thanks in anticipation, Mike

I never have quite got to the bottom of this problem. Temp sensor, gauge sender and termostat all replaced. I cut into the wires ahead of the fan controller . This confirmed that there is separate switching from the ECU occuring along both thin wires. One results in both fans operating together at low speed, the other results in both fans operating at high speed. The air-con feed wire has both fans operating constantly at the slower speed. One day I will get to the bottom of this.

I have just had to tackle this job myself. Wipers would stop, pause, advance a few more inches, stop, pause, few more inches...etc,etc.. I lifted the blades from the screen which took enough drag off the motor to allow it to park. This saved the motor burning out at least. Next job was to remove the wiper arms. (

any 2.3 owner help with the above please ?

My Dec 98 Galaxy 2.3 Ghia manual has only recently started displaying a tendency to get hot in traffic. I have read the other threads re this - and there is a view that this is normal. However it was not normal for this Galaxy for the first 8 years, so I suspect a fault. Orginally the Gal temp gauge would be fixed in between the 'N' and 'O' of 'NORM' in all conditions, but now when stationary or in slow traffic will creep up into the 'M'. Both cooling fans then kick in together, but stay on just long enough to reduce the temp to the 'R' before switching off again. I know the air-con will turn both fans on, over-riding the cooling system thermostatic control Can another 1999 or later 2.3 Ghia manual spec owner (without the creeping temp gauge problem) tell me whether one of the fans should some in ahead of the second - I seem to remember that mine once did ! I know there are lots of fan arrangements for the Gal - I have replaced temp sensor, and thermostat cheers, Mike

I still fancy the screen is leaking. your symptoms are exactly as I endured. The car especially filled up when standing in rain. The soundproofing will absorb a huge amount of water. I really recommend you get the footwell and upper A pillar trims off ... it really is almost impossible to spot otherwise. Is there any evidence of a replacement screen ?

Check for evidence of a replacement screen (fitters sticker, tax disc holder etc). Budget fitters rush the job and don't prepare the channels properly giving rise to leaks. Do not expect to see evidence of a leak around the screen itself. The water will track within the A pillar and within the dash. Because the insulation under the carpet will absorb many pints of water it may be many months before the problem is noticed - thus the association with a replacement screen is overlooked. Remove the A pillar cover trims within the footwells. Carefully feel within the box section for any drips / wetness . The leak may be small and the drips are therefore going to be infrequent. Examine in the middle of steady rain. You can leave the trims off for a few days. Get upside down in the footwell with a torch !. A quick test with a hose lacks the persistent effect of rain & a small leak. Although a slow trickling hose may confirm things in due course. The water can track to the opposite side to the leak especially if you are on a slope. Driving in the rain may not leak as the water is driven in different directions. Roll back the rubber windscreen trim so that you can see how accurately the screen is centralised. The rubber seal does not keep the water out - that the job of the sealant bedding I speak from experience and four trips to AutoGlass now thankfully resolved Good luck Mike