scrote

I managed to fix the misfire due to a wiring problem and its been fine since - I still have turbo cut out when cold. The only other person to have had the same problem fixed it by stripping down the turbo and cleaning the vanes. I think previous owners of my bus did not use PD oil which probably hasnt helped with carbon build up in the turbo ? We just live with turbo cut out for now and when it happens just reset it with a re-start. I will strip it down when i have more time.

Thanks for asking MO4 Yes normally once a day when cold - need to take the turbo apart to clean it up and free the vanes and will do so when i have more time and the weathers a little warmer ! If anyone wants to come over to Suffolk and help me out for the day I wont say no.

tim-spam and dt1 sorry for delay - I am a crime scene examiner in Suffolk (it covers Ipswich) so my feet have only just touched the ground after a very busy few months. No have not attacked the bus yet and I am tempted to try and do it properly like dt1 rather than use unknown goo. The problem is no worse and is probably easier to live with in a manual as you can limit the revs until warm. As and when I do have a go (when its warmer) Ill probably try and speak to dt1 for some advice - My mechanical training was done when distributers and points were the norm. dt1 - I presume all is well and the problem has not re-appeared ? Scrote

Hi Had a misfire on my Bus (PD 115 manual) and eventually traced it to a poor connection to an injector - I took the rocker/injector cover off and disconnected, cleaned and ensured there was a good contact on all the terminals to the injectors. I also took apart the round connector on the side of the cylinder head and did the same with that. I dont know which one was at fault but it was over 2000 miles ago now and have had no probs since. Scrote

I had a missfire and it was also a wiring problem - I stripped down all the wiring to the injectors and cleaned any connections which cured it about three months ago and its been fine since. The trouble is i dont know which connection had failed as i did so many at once.

Interesting... i note from the post above that the owner of the golf with a similar problem used two cans before the problem was resolved - Im wondering if your half way there dt1 ? been super busy at work so have not had a go myself yet - but will do in due course scrote

Having already spent hours on the bus I will give it a try and will report in due course all others wishing to give it a try maybe interested in cans available on e bay type in the following with the spaces EKOTEK POWER BOOST - and you will find cans available for

As per my previous entry, My bus has been suffering the same problem for the last year and i have tried changing/flushing/blowing/cleaning nearly every component under the bonnet. It gets a good run of 30 miles most days and I regulary rev it hard when warm and rarely get much smoke from the exhaust so Im happy theres no big carbon build up. However, there is one thing that gives the dirty sticking vanes theory some cridibility. Last winter we took the bus fully loaded on a 500 mile round trip - When setting off in very very cold weather the turbo cut out at least three or four times in the first 10 miles it then behaved for the remainder of the journey. After that trip the turbo did not cut out again for another two weeks - and then it started again and has been doing it ever since. There is one other thing that i have noticed with the bus and i dont know if dt1 has the same - but the egr valve leaks oil down the back of the engine - not a huge amount but could it be relevant ? Scrote

I have exactly the same problem - turbo cuts out once a day from cold and is fine there-after. I have done most of the checks as described above but no joy yet. I have decided to live with the problem for the time being as Ive hours pulling pipes off and cleaning them etc etc. Have you any update ? Scrote

As above really - some vehicles brake lights work even when the ignition is off and it appears that in some way the galaxy glow plugs are connected (maybe the same circuit ?) so - change your brake light switch and all should be ticketie boo (thats fine in laymans terms)

hello mate it's not the MFA sensor it's the airflow metre. Infact most people dont lknow if you disconnect the airflow metre the car wil run and 100% faster !! location is simple- under the bonet on your left look at the airfilter you will see a small connection that comes out of it ..send me an email i will send you a picture if its confusing.. once you disconnect it you wil be overwhelmed with the new power your car hads to sprint up hills and from 0-60 you will now be king on the road. unfortunetly you wil have to replace eventually and this silly little piece of plastic that you can change yourself will cost

When pricing up a MAF for my 1.9 Tdi 115 bhp 02 model i got aquote from fraud of just under

Wow - you star ! Thanks for that really appreciate your time. I have told myself off for shouting earlier.

ANYONE GOT OR SEEN THE "POCKET MECHANIC" MANUAL BY PETER RUSSEK FOR THE SHARAN/ALHAMBRA ? THERES NO SERVICE MANUAL FOR THE 2000 + GALAXY ABOUT AND ALTHOUGH MY TIS IS HANDY THERES NO SERVICE GUIDE (UNLESS IVE MISSED SOMETHING) THE BOOK CLAIMS TO BE FOR TECH INFO, DIAGNOSTICS, TESTS AND SERVICE AND COVERS 1.9 TDI AND 2.8 FROM 2000 TO 2006 SCROTE

Hi - if the pedal firms up with pumping to the point that you have no travel when firm pressure is applied then it would suggest that the master cylinder washers are ok and that you have air in the system and or a leak elsewhere. Are you losing fluid ? I use the easy bleed and they are brilliant - just dont attach it to a tyre with 30 psi in it or youll have fluid all over the place - a standard car tyre at about 10 ish psi is normally sufficient I have also found that sometimes a single slow steady push and release of the pedal WITH the easy bleed attached and one bleed nipple open will help push out any really stubborn air locks. Good luck

the "book" states that no exhaust gasses should escape throughout the exhaust system other than the end pipe - as far as i am concerned it can be held together with paper mache and it would pass at my local garage as lomg as there is no blowing

:( BUS IS BACK !!!! ???? had the engine top cover off - unclipped all the electrical connectors to the injectors (flimsie things - not your usual german engineering ?) - cleaned up the connections at the twist terminal on the right hand side of the cylinder head - and having just thrashed it up and down the A14 for a few miles all seems fine and dandy !! The only trouble is that i did mess witha few things at once so if it happens again i dont know which to go to first. It could all be just a coincidence but i cant beleive and injector can suddenly repair itself ? - ill let you know if it goes wrong tomorrow BUT - the lesson here is - if you get told you have a faulty injector - dont go spending 500 notes untill you have checked all the wiring first - I phoned round a couple of diesel experts who were also trying very hard to sell me a full set of 4 recon units at 90 quid a throw plus labour stating " if one goes mate the others are sure to follow" - dont you just hate them ! Thanks for all your support Scrote (aka Jamie) Ps - Now ive joined ill be visiting - problems with bus or not - i need a high score on the arcade for a start - and i am slightly technical so if i can help please shout !

Had my freebie fault test today with the main stealers who came up with two fault codes P0301 ( which is appently a misfire on cyliner 1 ) P1666 ( Injector fault ) Was also given a quote of

Thanks Bigal - I hope you would have posted the same support knowing I am an OWL - if i knew how to id put the badge against my name Scrote Owl Wednesday til i die - scummy blades are doomed ( i hope )

Its now geting worse - it seems that its running on 3 and a half all the time and it makes no difference what sensor i unplug or which tube i pull off - i get the same result every time i re-start. The only thing that looks like its ok is the turbo which cuts in and out with the engine every time i start up - even when its running rough. The only good news i have is that i happened to attend my local Fraud Stealer on an unrelated work matter and got chatting to a salesman who has offered me a FREE diagnostic check which i hope to have done on monday. I will post the results for all to see then Wish me luck - please !!!! :D

Temperature and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (TMAP) measures the atmospheric pressure with ignition on and manifold vacuum pressure when engine is running as well as the manifold air temp can't see it working very well covered in oil :) :D Ill give the bu&&er a little bath in petrol and see what happens ??!!

Thanks for that - i did remove the T-MAP last night and it was covered in wet oil which i beleive has run down from the EGR valve(see my first post) and i dont think a wipe with a rag will cure it ?? The problem i have now is 1 - is it a faliure of either the MAF or the T-MAP that has caused the oil from the EGR 2 - is it another problem that has caused the oil from the EGR which has made the T-MAP fail ? 3 - This is looking expensive - do I sell my twin boys or re-mortgage the house Thanks for pictures - really appreciate everyones help I will try (almost) anything at the moment - so if you have any other ideas they are more than welcome Scrote

Have a gander in your service record book - i think it gives shedules in there failing that ring the dealer - i dont think its due til 10k - if thats the case the dealer will re-set the service indicator for you.

Thanks for that - I know which bit is the MAF - which bit is the T-MAP and what is its purpose in life ?

Thanks - ill see what the "experts" say next week, although i have to say i have little confidence in them. To keep some service history record I had the Bus serviced by a local garage who over-filled it with oil - I dont need to pay anyone to do that - i am quite capable of wrecking my own engine- at a third of the cost !! I have made enquiries at both Ford and VW garages re prices of MAFs and for the same unit Ford wanted a couple of quid short of