scooper1

I have 60 plate titanium x 140 I really like the new powershift gearbox very responsive and good MPG But I have one problem - When I coast up to a roundabout with foot lightly on the break when I try to accelerate into a gap then car does not give any power for about 2 seconds then it drops 2 gears and gives full power normally manages to wheel spin and still not go anywhere - this has happen 4 times in the first 1000 miles on car. Each time this happens I nearly get hit by other cars on roundabout If I stop then before entering the roundabout then I get a nice progressive power delivery I take car to dagenham motors today and had a long test drive with their chief engineer - he did a software update on car The problem got a bit better but was still there is there anyone else we this problem? - I have a friend that has same car and he too has this problem

Key programming can be a pain - may need to try many times - the infa red type is real pain to get programmed on 2.8 battery has to be very good otherwise does not start - engine will seam to turn over fast but not start If you get a bleep from dash board after none start it is a PAT problem ..... Quite often related to battery problem above The non start when hot ( and if engine stops at high speed) seams like a crank angle sensor failure - they show no fault codes as engine thinks its stopped normally - took ford 6 weeks to find this on my car Not had any oil light problems on the 6x 2.8 galaxys I had over the last 14 years

slow changing out of first when cold is normal - it hold first gear to warm up oil quickly conking sounds - check engine roll restrictor is not broken - (try rocking engine) - second indicator is conk when changing from normal to reverse also check you do have a 4x4 - there are a lot of v5 that say 4x4 but 4x3 system not fitted - when looking for another 4x4 I looked at 6 cars that had v5 saying 4x4 - 4 of them never had system fitted and one had prop shaft removed slipping is bad news - I hope the oil change works - make sure you use correct oil - vw is cheapest at around

much better circuits available in FORD TIS disk search EBAY for copy

found were it should go it goes a small spigot on the on the larger crankcase vent pipe

thanks will have a look again tonight

I have a 2.8 auto 1998 mk 1 with a disconnected pipe The pipe is a small rubber one next the air box - joins into a T connector - one leg of connector goes to towards the petrol tank, The second leg goes under the manifold somewhere - The third leg of T connector go to short 4 inch rubber pipe and the end is just open and pulling a vacuum - where should this pipe go ? I can't find any pictures of these pipes on the TIS disk

Let me take a guess that you fitted a calcium battery .... N reg needs a old type battery - plain lead acid calcium batteries without updated alternator will take more then 10 hours to recharge Also once a battery has been almost flat for a period of time then battery never fully recovers also on the N reg the lighting computer has a very long time before turning off the lights - so if a door switch is knackered it can flatten battery Another one to be on look out for on N reg is the rear load light are independent of the main door lights - if rear switch does not turn lights off they never time out

That is way too high not just a bit high also note for a 98 model use a standard Pb battery - not calcium - calcium battery will take more 5 hours to fully recharge try not run car for long at 18v - it will damage the control units over time

I have a 1999 mk1 4x4 which has now destroyed two transfer boxes - second one from a known good car lasted 8 miles box is actually cracked in half and second time was repeat of first all mounts and shafts seams ok gearbox is not lose it looks just like the gearbox is being supported by the transfer box and that it gives up and cracks from the stress of supporting the gear box but the gearbox mounts and fixings seam fine and seams to be firmly mounted to engine. The transfer box also has a bracket to the engine . Transfer box breaks in half between this bracket and the gearbox mount the car has only done 40,000 and it now looks like i going to have to scrape it The only thing I can think of is that the autobox is locking up and putting all the stress on the transfer box - Has anyone heard of this on the AG4 gearbox

Hi there Pressing the ECON button releases the air con clutch (no air con) Auto switches on air con and brings the inside temp to what the display is set to regardless of outside temp 22 deg is suppose to be the default setting. The heated screen automatically comes on when first starting when outside temp is approx around the freezing mark I am having a similar where the panel does not remember the last setting once the ignition has been off for more that 3 hours I will admit that there is currently no gas in system because of a broken pipe somewhere but it getting annoying that system keeps resetting to auto mode and 22c I just want it to remember 20c ecom I know how it should work other mk1 galaxy works fine

if it a late 98 then the controller is part of the fuse box - drop the fuse box and check for lose connectors and relays for the cruse control - repair the pipe behind the left hand indicator

check the light controller under the left hand seat

I would get the ATF level checked again by some one else most places do not use correct procedure I have had the problem of the no drive then jumping back to full drive on at least 4 different auto galaxys- normally this only happens when gear box is cold box will be slow to change gear when cold - it holds low gear to warm up box

can any one tell if this would fit ebay vw golf v6 transfer box the last ebay link was for a rear diff - seller now changed listing

Linky Link Link Hi looking at the picture on ebay and looking up TIS the picture looks more like a rear diff !! - can any any confirm this is the front transfer box if not - anyone got a spare transfer box ....

thank you all very much I had missed that on ebay -I was looking for transfer box and it's listed as transfer unit

Does any know what parts you need to replace the 4x4 transfer box and just use front wheel drive I have a mk1 V reg 2.8 4x4 automatic Alternatively does any know where I might get a second hand transfer box non of the online parts dealers are replying Galaxy has only done 40,000 miles and has cracked the transfer box Thanks

It a standard mk1 problem - well on all 5 I had have done the same If weather is damp you have to use the aircon - but is a bugger when temperature drops to 4c and ice 1 led lights - this turns off the aircon

The not starting problem is a normal auto box problem - the inhibitor switch on gear lever needs adjusting I bet it will start if you just flex selector side to side when in granny mode is gearbox changing gear OK or it stuck in one gear. Does it change down when you floor the accelerator ? I found out what the problem was with my auto gearbox - they was about 10 Ml of water inside ECU box next to battery - work OK for first drive of day the stuck in limp mode for rest of day until water settled back to bottom of box

yep look at ebay ask several people breaking 2.3 galaxies been to 247parts and breakersyard go one offer so far at

My gearbox ECU has failed - It got water in it and corroded the PCB I having trouble finding another ECU with same part number 099 927 733 Q I can get other ones with a different letter on end does any know which ones might be OK with my car its a ghia 2.3 auto mk1 early 2000 W plate I have tried one from a 2.8 ghia X 1998 4x4 auto - nearly works but change up instead down on heavy acceleration

on mk1 both heaters control circuits are done by one 20 amp fuse - sysptoms are you push the switch - you some times hear a poping noise - light comms on normally and goes off normally but after that switch does nothing - lights will not come on I have had this happen two times - just been to shop to buy more fuses