chazhead

Many thanks folks i'll head off to find a motor factors in the locality. BTW if anyone needs a reason for being able to access the net on ya mobile, this is it. :-)

Hi all, am on hols and the front pads have given up the ghost and have hit the backing (aint there meant to be a wear indicator?) Other than a means to lift the car what tools do i need to replace the pads as i only have very limited tools with me and need to pick up what ever is needed. Also, pistons, wind in or push in? And who pushes fluid back up and who bleeds? Easiest opions please. thanks forgot to say, model is a 97 2.3 Ghia

Ditto. As I discoverd when I had to remove it after droping a spark plug down there. I can now also see why it is so often left off by garages, you need arms 6 ft long if you are refitting it on ya own ;) ;)

Right, it was both coilpacks that had failed, weird symptoms, but for future ref, they can fail both at the same time. Paid

Right, changed leads no diff. It is deffo cyls 1 & 3 with no spark, these are the ones that are run off the leads from the coilpacks. I have had it all apart and have swapped working plugs with non working plugs to dbl check and there are visable sparks at the plugs on 2 & 4 (when connected direct to the coilpack) but none on 1 or 3. IMHO the likelyhood of both coilpacks failing at the same time is not that great....is it?? So what is it that sends the signal to the coilpacks that fires cyls 1 & 3. Any ideas anyone?

Bit more info. Sounds and feels like it is running on 2 cyls only. If I remove the HT leads from the plugs with leads on ( 1 or 3 ) there is no diff to the way the engine runs. If I remove the LV connector to either coilpack the car spluters and dies. Now would I be wrong to assume that this points to the HT leads breaking down, i.e the cyls with the coilpacks connected direct are firing but the leads are FU'd probably due to age and the foggy/damp weather. Wadda ya reckon??

FYI - This is what the LV wires to the coil pack were like before I replaced them. (Not mine, but were exactly like this) http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/images/old%20loom%20011.jpg

Hi Checked all the plugs, all looked good with correct gap & colour, I know it don't mean that they are OK but they are only about 5000miles old.

Hi all My 98 2.3 has suddenly started running very rough on tick over and through the rev range, power is down as well. Pulled off the coil pack cover (is that what it's called?) and the two low voltage wires that provide power (I guess + & -) to the left hand coil pack where very badly worn, all the insulation had broken away and the copper wires were actually touching in places. I have replaced these wires back to a good point in the loom. Started the car up and it is exactly the same symptoms, now my question is as the LV wires to the coil pack were actually touching could this have blown the coilpack or somthing else? Or any other ideas, please, as we are meant to be off visiting family tomorrow. Thanks

Just replaced mine, took perished pipe to local motor factors and asked for some vacum pipe the same diameter but 2" longer, not only did they have exactly what I wanted but it only cost 20p

Hi, sorry you are having trouble, I can't answer for you on things to try but look at this link http://www.dft.gov.uk/stellent/groups/dft_...oads_028503.pdf Page 199, it does show your CO% to be off but your HC looks OK, maybe that info will help someone else identify your problem.

Hi, does anyony have a wiring diagram or know what each of the wires do on the harness that runs the shuttle changer in the boot of the Gal? As mine is FU'd I thought I could use the part that carry's the audio signal to sodler on a 3.5mm headphone jack that most mp3 players use, I could also use the 12v+ to drive a car adapter to power it etc etc. Must look at mp3 players with remote control..........<ponders> Thanks all.

(H)igh (T)ension Leads As Maghouse said, they connect to your spark plugs, if you have a petrol engine that is. They carry the high tension pulse to the spark plug.

All sorted, 20 amp fuse, no. 9 in the central fuse box for future ref.

on mk1 both heaters control circuits are done by one 20 amp fuse - sysptoms are you push the switch - you some times hear a poping noise - light comms on normally and goes off normally but after that switch does nothing - lights will not come on I have had this happen two times - just been to shop to buy more fuses Scooper, that is it exactly, in which the six squillion fuse boxes is this 20amp? Thanks

Indeed it is, and a colloquialisim has never been so apt :blink:

I used to have a Pajero before the Gal, and this link shows the reason, on the Paj at leats, why you should not push the pistons back. http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27845 Thanks for the advice folks, I will sort this over the next couple of weeks.

Hi all, Need to replace discs and pads back & front on my 97 2.3. Is there anyquirks I need to be aware of or is everything fairly straight forward? Is it best to open the bleed nipple on the callipers when winding the pistons back in? Any other tips? Thanks.

Thanks for the replys. Engine is running but still no lights, will check fuses next just seems odd that they should both go when they run through two seperate fuses/relays. Wondered if there was a temp sensor or summit that stopped them coming on.

Hi all Used the heated front & rear screen switches last night when driving in the rain, both turned on and turned themselves off when the screens had cleared. Went to use them this morning and neither switches will illuminate, am I missing somthing here or has somthing gone pop? Cheers.

Hi all, new to the site but thought I would share the problem I had with the N/S door mirror not working, either adjuster or heater. On investigation of the mirrror I discovered all the wires had been cut and taped up!! Further investigation showed a large self tapping screw had been put in and was stopping the mirror from folding as well. I guess that at some point the mirror had been knocked off the car ripping the wires apart, whoever had put it back together had used the self tapper to hold the mirror onto the frame and had just taped the wires up. The length of wire from the door was of a sufficent length to work with but the wires from inside the mirror were just to short to do anything with, this is how I fixed it. 1) On the underside of the door mirror there is a black plastic cover, remove this carefully with a flat bladed screwdriver. 2) Open the door and remove the two plastic gromets on the inside of the door where the mirror sits. 3) Remove the two Torx head bolts that sit in these holes. MAKE SURE THE MIRROR IS SUPPORTED BEFORE DOING SO 4) Plave a cloth on your work surface and lay the mirror unit on it, then CAREFULLY unclip the painted back of the mirror from the main frame, I used a stiff plastic spatular so as not to damage the paint. 5) Pull what remains of the wires back up the small round hole they go through, you may have to cut back the plastic cover that the wires sit in. 6) There are five wires, blue, black, white, red/black and brown. I made 10" lengths of new wire from an old loom I had kicking about and scotch locked and heat shrinked these wires onto the originals. 7) There is enough room in the mirror cavity to accomdate the scotch locks, guide the new wires back down the guide hole of the mirror and CAREFULLY reattach the painted cover. 8) Reattach the mirror to the door making sure that the wires and shroud from the door pass through the rubber gromit on the back of the mirror. 9) As close as you can get to the where the wire from the door comes out the bottom of the mirror, scotch lock and heat shrink the new wires to their corresponding one from the door. 10) push the wires and scotch lock up into the small void at the bottom of the mirror, they do all fit, and re fit the cover. 11) Test mirror, feel smug. Sorry if this is a bit noddy but I don't know what level of instruction you guys normally use so if it's a sucking eggs thing I do appologise. Cheers all.