chazhead

;) Once you have removed the starter motor, there is a gear on the shaft that sticks out from the starter motor casing. This gear runs up and down on the shaft, clean up the shaft and the gear and lightly regrease so the action is smooth and not sticky or jerky. While you have the starter motor out, check the teeth on the gear for wear, it the teeth look worn then I would think about replacing the starter motor as you will end up damaging the starter ring which is a can of worms you do not want to get involved with. http://i5.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/c6/96/f433_1.JPG

"Also occasionally get a 'screeching' noise just after the car has started off the key. Very loud noise, only lasts around 1 second." That is the starter bendix sticking, again an easy'ish fix. Remove starter motor clean and grease up the bendix and all will be right with the world again :)

I'd go with temp sensor as well. When the car is cold & the ECU thinks it is cold the mixture is going to be rich, as the car warms the temp sensor should...urm sense this...and the ECU would lean off the mixture. If the sensor is 'foobed' then maybe the ECU thinks the engine is still cold and keeping the mixture rich, and a hot engine running on a rich mix is very sluggish, misses and will eventually conk out. Where they are tho.....sorry I don't know.

May be misreading, but the ABS light is meant to come on when you just turn on the ignition. As Madbaz states, it is if it does not go out after the engine has started that a problem exists. Re: starting problem have a look here

Slick 50 - no way, never, month of sundays etc etc. Teflon particles = Kaboom. I have no experience of the diesel motor but it sounds as tho you are using the correct oil, and as you have said have changed it and the filter already then no matter what oil you put in it will not get rid of the symptoms you are describing. 'Restricted' oil path or oil pump IMHO.

I overfilled my 2.3 by a simular amount (never top up on a slope) and it would chuck out plumes of blue smoke, especially on starting and pulling away. Removed overfill and all was right with the world again. Lucky for me my CAT was fu'd anyway but I would remove it asap.

Hmmm...initialy thought that the fuel pump trip under the passenger seat had trigered, or maybe got wet and shorted...but as you said it resolved it's self I'm not so sure now.

Do you climate control? If so there is a small fan that draws cabin air in for temp monitoring (behind the CC panel I believe) this makes some interesting noises as it gets older. Well mine does anyway.

This is just my opinion, but I would not solder. Multistrand wire is used to provide flexibility in the cable without breakage, if you solder in new wire, the joins will become solid and as such inflexible and will fail quicker. I would remove access panels to access the loom further back from the exposed join and either scotch lock in new wire or cut and crimp in new connectors and heat shrink tube them to hold firm.

After hoovering out the wells under the front seats and you find you car does not start, do not spend an hour or so checking individual fuel system components without checking the impact tripping fuel pump cutout has not tripped when being a bit vigorus with the hoover accesories. :31: :lol:

OK as measured 10 mins ago. Mk1 2.3 Ghia X, I don't have the 2.3 badge so can't help ya there. NS Ghia X badge: To top of the 'h' from bottom of indicator = 60mm To edge of 'X' from wing edge = 57mm OS Ghia X badge: To top of 'h' from bottom of indicator = 60mm To edge of 'G' from wing edge = 57mm Rear door Galaxy badge (NS): To nearest part of the 'G' from boot edge = 23mm To top of 'G' from bottom light cluster = 33mm

NP HTH ;P

Because the 'wing' mirrors are mounted on the door. The wiring for them does pass through the door gator, honest. <_<

you put the horn across the battery direct to see if it works? If it does, check the voltage at the wires into the horn, see what you're getting if nothing then maybe the horn switch in the steering wheel needs cleaning?

Just thought I'd share my problem/solution with you nice folks should anyone else experience the same issue. Symptom: I change my oil and filter every six months and am religious about checking the level (painful experience from the past) but a few days ago the oil pressure light would flicker on once the engine was hot and the engine speed dropped back down to tick over or if the car was braked heavily. Garage suggestion: Local garage suggested changing oil & filter, which I did with no improvement. Next suggestion was the oil pressure sender, which was changed without improvement. Final solution: I dug around on the TIS and found the section on how to check the oil pressure, and one of the possible causes for low oil pressure at low engine speed was a blocked oil pickup in the sump. Whacked the Gal on the stands, drained the new oil (grrrrr) dropped the sump and low and behold the gauze covering the oil pick up was covered in sludge, cleaned it all up chucked it all together and now more low oil light flickering. Hope this helps anyone else out. Cheers

Is that a euphonisim? ;) Ta for the info tho.

Ta Mo4 I looked at the TIS and in the routine for checking oil pressure it does not mention having to drain the oil, just thought I'd check in with the place that knows.

The one and the same......twice <_<

Anyone know if I need to drain the oil before replacing?

Not wrong there, we have lost 4 garages round here over the past year or so, the queue's at the remaining stations now are a real problem, it can take anything up to half an hour to to fill & pay for your fuel. I try to fill up whenever I'm away from the area now, but obviously that is not always possible. <shakes fist at supermarkets> :lol:

Does not show about tensioner bolts, but I am lead to believe the 2.3 in the scorpio is the same as the Gal, so thought this might be of some use. http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/drivebelt.htm

Thanks chaps, I shall go hither and investigate.

My AC has never worked since I have had the car, tried to get it re gassed and the gassing machine would not even register as the leak was too big. I have nver tried to fix the AC as the car it's self only cost just over 2K spending half that again on sorting the AC out just does not seem cost effective to me. Not too worried, just wind the windows down, but just lately the AC pump has started to make some very strange noises, sounds to my untrained ear like a bearing or somthing on the way out. My question is this, can I remove the AC pump and replace the aux belt with a smaller belt (maybe form a model without AC??)

Great innit :blink:

Hi all Back home safe and sound, thanks to all for the support, purchased a set of allen keys and a big screwdriver and the pads were changed both sides in less than an hour, all for just over