Vanbursta

First thing to check is the com port your software is using, the USB lead acts as an extra com port when it is installed it can be any of comm addresses from 1 to 4. Secondly DO NOT download the USB version of the software from Ross-Tech, I know it sounds weird but it will NOT work with a non Ross Tech interface, you need the normal version. Can you repost being a bit more specific about your setup (what version of the software etc and serial ports etc).

Just a quick post to wish everyone a very happy Christmas and all the best for the new year. Have a good 'un everybody!

There are 2 bolts (at least) that have to be removed, one is accessable after removing the air intake housing and the other after removing the alarm horn. And yes you need to remove the wiper assembly to gain access.

Probably the load pressure valve, are you using any brake fluid or is there a problem with your brakes?

My timing chain rattles like this and has done ever since I bought the car, when I first got it I replaced the tensioner and the improvement was significant, however as it had obviuosly been run with the adjuster faulty, there was still some rattle. I don't worry about it anymore I just drive the car and eventually I will get round to replacing the chains / tensioners, as it's a fairly major job I am waiting until I really have to do it. Sepulchrave is right though, you should never use additives - very bad for a modern engine.

Yes but there is nothing matching either of the fault codes that have come up. Stuck now as I don't know what to do next!

Can anyone help me decifer the following fault codes please? (ans incidentaly is this scanning all the avaialble control units - it doesn't seem to be scanning the central locking ECU for example, is there a way to get it to do everything by default?) Thanks all VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 021 906 256 P Component: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 AT V03 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00020 2 Faults Found: 01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338) 20-10 - Malfunction in Basic Setting - Intermittent 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded Readiness: 0110 0101 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 02: Auto Trans Controller: 099 927 733 E Component: AG4 Getriebe 099 2920 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 00000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Controller: 7M0 907 379 A Component: ABS/EDS ITTAE 04 GI V00 Coding: 02802 Shop #: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Controller: 7M0 907 040 S Component: CLIMATRONIC MPV V101 Coding: 00012 Shop #: WSC 00020 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 15: Airbags Controller: 6N0 909 603 K Component: AIRBAG VW2 V00 Coding: 00075 Shop #: WSC 00020 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments Controller: V96 VW1 084 9V9 Component: 6-AA instrument 064g Coding: 00116 Shop #: WSC 00021 No fault code found. End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm fairly certain the MAF not being connected will be stored as a fault code, until it's reset by someone (either a professional garage or with Vag-Com), the light will stay on.

Funny? as in what type of smell, rotten eggs by any chance?

Interesting to know what it is, I have the same model and the same problem, I have changed the thermostat housing and the overflow bottle and the heater matrix, but it still uses about half a pint every 100 miles or so, I have also changed the rad cap and checked for leaks, can't find anything! - no it is not the head gasket.

15 - 17 mpg round town and 25 -27 mpg on a run, but mines a V6 2.8, I guess if you want luxury motoring then you have to pay for it!

Don't forget to modify it to stop the water ingress - or you could just buy the new pattern frame from Fords at about a tenner!

Not sure about the MK2, but on the MK1 the seatbelt is mounted on the seat.

If you want it to be more efficient, you need to have the reciever dryer replaced as well, it costs about

Yes it drove fine, IIRC I also had to change timing gear and manifolds etc as well.