sparky Paul

Well worth having, they are so cheap to buy. Less than a fiver on fleabay UK sellers, under 3 quid if you can wait for it to come from China! Search for "VAG KKL USB" to bring them up.

That's got to be your first port of call. If it goes off before starting the engine, then somethings kaput. There are reasons why the oil pressure would drop when the oil is hot, but start with a new sender.

That's very handy information to know for when mine goes pop!

I think we've been here before... http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/27284-galaxy-2005-central-locking-rear-doors-will-not-open/

I'll make a note of that number myself, might come in handy. Getting used parts that are unique to the mk.1 is becoming a problem now as many scrap yards frag cars that old.

The other thing I've known people do is cut the pipe at the leak and use a piece of hydraulic hose & multiple jubilee clips to rejoin the two parts, cutting out any bad pipe if necessary. It sounds like a bodge and it wouldn't be my choice, but it might get you away. Not sure if mk.1/2 are the same, you could check the part numbers on the catalogue. The biggest problem obtaining a used one is that they all rot.

Just to add, that pipe on mine has looked extremely crusty for years and I think it's only a matter of time before the inevitable happens...

I would call it the PS fluid cooler, but the catalogues often use less than helpful names for the parts. The Ford part number is the 7 digit number on the link. You would have to check with the dealer (VW or Ford) as to availability, if they say it's on 'permanent back order', that's a euphemism for no longer available. On the other hand, it's only a bit of steel pipe, and it may be possible to repair the the old one by brazing in a new piece of pipe and a couple of sleeves.

It's a while since I did my rear shockers, but if I remember correctly, the hub carrier bolt is a nut & bolt and the top bolt is into a captive nut. If only half the bolt has come out, it may have snapped.

As BrianH says, unlikely to be the central locking module which on later cars is integrated into the body control module behind to the fusebox. BrianH is correct, far more likely to be wiring problems - check the wiring in the rubber gaiters on all doors, including the tailgate. If you cannot open the rear doors at all, you should be able to access the rear door wiring at the B-pillar when you open the front doors. My last problem with the locking was a failed motor unit, and one rear door was deadlocked shut. It was not easy to rectify, but can be done. Unlikely in your case, I would have thought, due to both rear doors having the same problem.

A familiar sight, and a picture that shows the problem perfectly... that's the kind of bodging I referred to in the other broken wires thread recently, I'm guilty of it myself. The only permanent fix is the replacement of damaged bits as daddyfixit said above.

Some of them are VW colours, but there will be a Ford paint code for it on the VIN sticker. According to etis, your car is indeed Platinum Metallic, interior trim Tria/Anthracite.

It's one of those jobs that you will end up going back to every couple of years, unless you make a proper job of it. Most, including myself, have bodged it a few times before they get fed up and do something more permanent. If you consider replacing the larger cores with two smaller ones, bear in mind that it's the cross sectional area that determines the capacity of the wire, so a wire twice the physical diameter will carry 4 times the current, and conversely one half the diameter will only carry ¼ the current. Also consider that if you replace one wire with two, and one breaks, the remaining wire could be overloaded and may get hot along it's whole length.

As BrianH says, you need to unclip the loom from the tailgate and pull it back into the car to allow you to 'let in' some new pieces of flexible wire, putting the joints well outside of the gaiter. Use the extra-flexible stranded singles, similar sizes to the originals, and it should last the car out.

Are the pipes solid ones where they go through the grommet? Where ever these aluminium pipes run near the chassis they are at risk of galvanic corrosion. The cheapest option is normally to get an aircon specialist to repair the existing pipes and re-gas.

You would smell the diesel, if it's that thin. Water is also pretty obvious, it forms an emulsion and leaves creamy deposits. It might just be old and/or poor quality oil.

Instrument cluster problems are usually as a result of bad earths or water ingress into connectors. Check the main engine earth strap, and the multi connectors around the engine, and you can also have problems with water ingress causing corrosion on the connectors on the back of the cluster itself. When you say the oil was 'watery', do you mean unusually thin (which can mean diesel getting into the oil), or actual water in the oil giving you the classic mayonnaise inside the oil filler?

I know seating the ABS sensor is a problem because I've had it myself. I found that the air gap has to be quite small, maybe a mm or two. If it's too far away, the ABS fault will not reset. If it's just on the cusp, you get a strange fault where the ABS kicks in during low speed braking, just as you are coming to a stop - but no ABS light on. The flexys can appear fine but still give this fault, for the sake of a few quid it's worth eliminating it as a possible cause.

There are two bolts holding the rear arm to the subframe through horizontal rubber bushes, not captive nuts which makes life a bit easier, the anti-roll bar clamp and shocker bolt shouldn't be too much trouble. Everything is odd sizes on the suspension, make sure you take 16mm 18mm 21mm sockets (preferably 6-point) and spanners as well as the usual sizes, and maybe a bit of cash in case you need to bung one of the lads there a few quid to hot any crusty nuts up. Hammer and a drift, or big screwdriver, are always useful to have. Oh, and lots of swear words.

Your ABS light should reset once you go over 15mph or so, if everything is working ok, so I would say you still have an ABS problem. I would have a guess at an incorrectly seated sensor. When you change the sensor, you must make sure that the scale on the hub carrier where the sensor seats is completely removed, or else the sensor will not reach close enough to the reluctor ring. The brakes sticking on is probably coincidental, if the caliper piston and pads are all free, definitely suspect the flexible hose as suggested above. They break up internally, and the rubber can act as a non-return valve. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, but I doubt that's your problem. It should be replaced every two years, but really it's for the prevention of corrosion from the absorbed moisture more than anything else.

This is in the mk.1/2 (1995-2006) section of the forum, and the 2.3 engine from these cars has a cable throttle - but it's NOT a Duratec engine. The later mk.3 cars are Duratec, no idea what the throttle arrangements on those are. You might have better luck asking in the mk.3 section.

Welcome to the forum, by the way. B) I don't think you are able to view images until you have made 5 posts though... why not introduce yourself in the new member section.

You may have better luck in the mk.3 section, yours is a Galaxy Mk.3. If you clicky here, this post might help though ;)

Made me chuckle :)

Is it misfiring or just holding back? Coil failure is common on these, often failing when engine hot. Throttle will show up a weak spark too. What's the condition of the plugs? They must be changed at scheduled interval, they are totally kaput after 40,000-ish miles.