sparky Paul

Try searching for "galaxy resistor". IIRC - If I Remember Correctly :)

The cheapest option is a ELM327 based interface cable, the cheap OBDII/EOBD ones available on that well known auction site work fine. I find ScanTool software the easiest to use and most useful.

The two relays are the main power relay, and the fuel pump relay - I'm on holiday atm so can't check the other number, but 167 does ring a bell. There's a FAQ entry that shows how to access these relays.

I use a cheap generic elm327 based interface for the engine, it reads the trouble codes and live data from my Ford 2.3 just fine. I use the VAG-COM KKL for everything else, but it won't work with the Ford engines as the protocols are different..

The water's going somewhere. Get the car up to temperature somewhere shaded, and have a poke about with a torch looking for any sign of damp areas, staining or vapour... pay particular attention to the ends of the rad, the thermostat housing, water pump, etc., i.e. all the most likely candidates. Have a good look under the car, in particular the pipes to the back heater and the heater itself. Any problems demisting? Suspect the heater matrix. Check the area above the expansion bottle cap for staining, indicating a faulty pressure relief valve, or excess pressure in the cooling system. Is the cooling system pressurising? You could be losing it to exhaust via the headgasket. Any problems starting? Good luck. :unsure:

It's normal to feel a bit of rotational play in the driveshafts, but other faults are not always evident without removing the shaft. I would start from basics, and swap wheels from to back first to eliminate those. Jack up each front corner, and rotate the wheels on full lock whilst feeling the joints for any unevenness, stiffness, clicking, or sideways movement. The rear bushes do have a fair bit of movement, one of mine was split and the centre of the other was parting company with the rubber, but the car still behaved itself. The new bushes all have a fair bit of flex, which is quite normal. Any wobble or vibration from the wishbones is more likely to be a bottom balljoint, so have a good look at those too.

Could be a turbo problem, a split pipe somewhere, or even something driven by the auxiliary belt. You may have better luck asking in the Mk III Technical Section.

Favourite failure point on the mark 1 is at the front of the o/s wheelarch, where the aircon pipe crosses the chassis leg and emerges through the hole cut in the undertray, heading towards the receiver/dryer. The pipe is aluminium, the chassis is steel, and the muck that collects between the two causes rapid galvanic corrosion of the aluminium pipe. What looks like dirt, or dots on the pipe are often multiple perforations.

Useful info, thanks for posting. :unsure: FWIW, you can see live data from the Ford engine using a generic OBD2/EOBD interface and ScanTool software.

Homepage seems to be fixed now, NOD32 happy with it. Google still reporting malicious code, but that should all right itself eventually.

Worse on full steering lock does sound like it's driveshaft related, the usual tell tale of a dry or worn CV joint is clicking or lumpiness on full lock. The only answer may be to remove the driveshafts and check what you can of the joints, splines, hubs and differential. It seems odd that the problem was fixed for 1500 miles with new driveshafts, perhaps it may be worth paying particular attention to the driveshaft splines.

I've just rebushed my wishbones after 13 years and 108,000 miles, the rear bushes were in pretty bad condition but the front bushes were perfect. FWIW, I did not experience any vibration/wobble or anything similar to your symptoms, only slight torque steer and a little vagueness in the straight ahead position. Personally, I don't think it's your wishbones. I would think the Galaxy should cope with your trailer, it's within the specified limit and a car on a trailer shouldn't be a difficult load to pull. Can't help with the driveshafts, but others on here have fitted eurocarparts driveshafts, so it might be worth a search. Speed related vibration/wobble is normally due to the rotating parts, i.e a wheel or driveshaft, being out of balance. This could be caused by an out of balance wheel, worn wheel bearing, faulty driveshaft joint, damaged axle, etc.. What speed does the wobble occur? Does it come primarily through the steering wheel, or through the car body - do you feel it through your hands or at the back of your legs? If the feeling is really like the regular bumping of cat's eyes, I would say the most likely things are a damaged tyre, or possibly driveshaft, or driveshaft spline related.

A good breaker bar is very useful when attacking the big/tight stuff.

Cheers gregers. Whatever it is, it only seems to be on the homepage I linked to in post #1. Could be a false positive, but it definitely needs to be checked out. I'm still 100% clean here as NOD32 immediately blocks the download, but anyone whose AV is not seeing the threat needs to take care - a trojan on your PC is not good news.

Firefox now warning that this is a reported attack site, and links to this site from Google are blocked. Admin need to check this out, there is suspicious code on the homepage.

The switches are only a fiver delivered on that well known auction site, and simple enough to fit. Welcome to the forum, by the way! B)

Welcome to the forum B) Either the brake pedal switch, or broken wiring in the flexible conduit between the car and the tailgate... both common issues. Renewing the brake pedal switch is covered in the FAQ section, in particular this bit.

NOD32 is blocking the www.fordgalaxy.org.uk homepage for me, reporting JS/Iframe.FK trojan Anyone else seeing this?

Just think about the holiday you could have next year with an extra two grand plus to spend... :o

Ford recommended the pinky-purple coloured Ford Super Plus Premium coolant, which is a 10 year antifreeze to Ford spec. WSS-M97B44-D, Ford part number 1336808. That said, you can use any good quality long life coolant such as the one SR mentions above, either the red 5 year stuff or the 10 year type. Note that you must ensure that any trace of old coolant is completely flushed out of the system before adding the new. Any traces of old blue/green ethylene glycol antifreeze can react with the new stuff, neutralising the anti-corrosion properties of the new coolant, and in severe cases cause blockages in the rad.

Have you checked the fuses? Sometimes a bulb failure talkes the fuse with it.

The handheld scanner does more or less the same job as the OBDII/EOBD interfaces, so it will read engine related codes and data - only the engine diagnostics had to be compliant to satisfy the European directive. However, it probably won't will work for any of the other bits, such as ABS, SRS, auto gearbox, etc. You need VAG-COM for those bits.

Not Galaxy related, but I bought a complete driveshaft for a Clio from J&R a few years ago. I was suspicious of the very low price, but it's been absolutely fine and I would buy from them again. Unfortunately, the rest of the car is a pile of junk. :P

Sounds like an ignition problem as you suspect, lambda sensor is detecting a fuel rich exhaust, which indicates over fuelling, or misfiring. Given your other symptoms, I would guess misfiring. If you are no evidence that the spark plugs have been changed recently, then that's the place to start. The plugs must be changed every 40,000 miles, they are well worn out by then and will start giving problems. At a pinch to get you away, you can regap, but you will see that the iridium tips on the plugs are burnt away after covering this sort of mileage, and they will not last long after re-gapping. The next weakness is the coil packs, the easiest method to diagnose is by substituting a known good unit. There's a couple of different arrangements, but the two under the centre rocker cover lid are particularly prone to failure.

Which software are you using? For the ebay cables, you need VCDS-Lite from the Ross-Tech site, or an old version of VAG-COM which is compatible.