sparky Paul

Can't help with the part number, but I can give the thread a bump up.... I guess it depends upon the engine code, i.e what bhp the engine is. What I would say is that aftermarket MAF sensors are generally a disaster. If they do work, they tend not to last long. When you do find out what part you need, go for a genuine Bosch item if you can afford it, or a good secondhand Bosch unit it you can't.

The best way to get any air out of the ABS pump is to do the full bleed procedure with VAG-COM.

The cost of those has gone up a lot since I did mine. :blink: The idler roller was originally a plastic affair, and identical to the one on the tensioner. It was quite a simple job to remove the shaft and fit the new idler pulley to the old tensioner, saving quite a few quid. The idler pulleys supplied now are metal, and although I understand they can still be used to repair the tensioner, I seem to remember someone said they need a small spacer to position them correctly... It might be work having a search for some old threads on the subject.

Welcome to the forum, BTW! B)

There's a single big long bolt holding the tensioner on from the rear, and dowels on the rear of the tensioner locate into holes to stop it rotating. The bolt is up between the engine and the power steering pump if I remember correctly, just have a feel around behind the bracket in the area of the tensioner. You will need a ratchet, socket and long extension to undo it, it is a bit awkward to get to. Can't remember socket size, sorry...

That's one of the problems with semi-trailing arm suspension, the camber always changes with suspension height. That's good for cornering, when you want the wheels to remain square to the road surface, but bad for load carrying as excess weight on the suspension will push both sides down into negative camber, and the wheels tend to sit on the inside of the tyres. I guess tired springs would give you a similar problem, or even lowering springs if the camber is not reset for the new ride height.

I think that's probably true, ours drives primarily on local rural roads, lots of corners and bends, and poorly surfaced in areas. I also had to replace the back tyres due to cracking, and a looming MOT. I'm glad I did as the cracks in the root of the tread were a lot worse than they looked, once off the rim.

My back tyres scalloped the inside 2" of the tread when the back shockers were worn out.

I took a worn out pair of Marshal Matrac KH35 tyres off the front this summer, another Kumho brand. They were very highly rated in the Auto Express tyre tests at the time, beating many premium tyres, so I thought I would give them a go. They have been great tyres all round, with decent grip in all weathers, and I would happily fit them again. IIRC I paid about

The wiper arm is located on splines on the shaft, it sounds like it's been off and refitted incorrectly. Remove the nut holding the wiper arm to the shaft, remove the wiper arm and reposition it.

Should be cut roughly square, with no discernable point. When the end breaks off it usually leaves a pointed end. As I say, can't see what detriment it is to the suspension on the Galaxy, but some testers don't like ends missing.

Common issue with the rear springs is to loose a tiny bit off the bottom coil, both of my rear springs went this way. Often hard to spot, as the missing little bit of spring is long gone. Shows up as an angled break on the end of the spring, rather than being cut square, and also the spring doesn't quite reach the stop in the seat at one end or the other. Can't see what detriment it would be in this case, but some testers are picky about bits of spring missing if it allows the spring to rotate.

Alternative is a 4½" angle grinder, you can cut the lip off the top cup with a slitting or cutting disk. The remaining bit will pass through the hole in the turret, and you can then tackle the nut on the bench. You'll need new top mounts, but they have usually had it anyway.

I use a old and very well used Mota Easyflare. Brilliant little tool if you can find one, does accurate single & double flares and is small enough to use on car if needed. Must have saved me £££s over the years.

Mine certainly did, they were the usual painted steel pipes. The front and rear extremities rusted badly and I ended up replacing them a few years ago. I don't mind doing brake pipes, brake pipe's cheap!

That's some list of advisories. :blink: Looks like he got a bit carried away, but theres a few things there I would probably check out... particularly the tyres, brake discs and pipes, see if they are actually that bad. Tyres cracking around tread roots is never good news, I just replaced the rears on mine for that. Once off the rim an deflated, they were actually worse than they looked blown up.

Reading the above question & answer again, I could probably have been a bit clearer - you don't need a spring compressor. Just drop each shock bottom bolt out and bar down the trailing arm to release the spring. Dropping both sides together makes it easier, but if you are jacked up with the wheels off, take care not to damage the brake flexies onto the trailing arms. If you have access to a high lift trolley jack, it's an even bigger doddle. Chock the front wheels, drop both bottom shock bolts out, then jack the whole back end up with the wheels still on the ground, until the springs can be removed. Replace the springs, drop the jack, and replace the shock bolts. Don't forget to check the rear shocks while they are disconnected, they have a hard time on the rear of a Galaxy.

Here you go Stretchy boot kit with one boot Stretchy boot kit with two boots £5.49 for the one boot kit, and £7.99 with two boots.

Not for the rear springs.

Nothing wrong with stretchy boots, I've fitted them in the past on other cars and never had to replace them again. You can get the complete stretchy boot kit, including cone, lube, CV grease, clips and the neoprene rubber boot on eBay for just over a fiver, or the same kit with two boots for 8 quid. A ball joint is about £10.

Can often be traced to damaged wiring in the door gaiters, as bigdave says. I'm expecting trouble with mine, it dropped both windows overnight whilst on holiday a month ago. About two inch of glass was peeping out on both front doors when I got up, the doors were still locked. Fortunately, we were in the middle of nowhere... unfortunately, it rained that night. :angry: It's been okay since, but I guess it's only a matter of time.

I think I've sussed the eBay bolts. The part no. in the listing is for a REAR stub axle bolt. IIRC the front bolt with the captive washer is about 90mm long.

Nope, forget that, it's not the pinch bolt - that's M12. That bolt I linked to is listed as a Galaxy hub bolt, but it just doesn't look right in the pic - no captive washer, and looks like a BZP steel bolt, rather than stretch. Thread is correct, but I'm sure 120mm is too long.

They've gone up a bit since I bought some. I've seen the hub bolts on eBay at £6, but they look like hub pinch bolts?

The driveshaft bolt is available separately from the dealers, they are only a couple of quid.