sparky Paul

Forget about VCDS, that's for using with the VAG-COM cable to connect to the VW modules. To connect to the Ford engines, you need to use the generic EOBD/OBD2 interface with OBD2 software. I find ScanTool v1.13 software works well, you should be able to find a copy on the net somewhere, or if you got the diddy little software cd-r with the interface, it's probably on there.

Yes, the link appears to be broken. Try this one... http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/topic/25311-universal-remote-central-locking-kit-mk1-1998/

Manual gearbox is Ford, but auto gearbox is definitely a VW unit... so I would think VCDS/VAG-COM should work. Hopefully, someone will be along soon with a bit more experience with VAG-COM on the auto box. Apart from the mechanical problems these gearboxes suffer, some have had problems with the wiring loom around the gearbox and/or corrosion in the connectors, which may show up as ECU problems.

It shouldn't be, but any subsequent corrosion will.

Welcome to the forum! B) Does the coolant level tend to stabilise around the min mark? This is nothing to worry about. ...or does it continue to disappear at the same rate? If it does, the coolant may be lost from a number of places, some of them not easy to detect if it's only a small leak. A garage can test the coolant for the presence of combustion gases, which would indicate headgasket. You may also smell combustion gases in the expansion bottle. Headgasket failure is not common on these engines. More likely candidates for leaks are radiator, the dummy (empty) thermostat housing on the end of the cylinder head, one of the two heater matrixes, or the pipework to the rear matrix. Have a good look for any white staining or rusty spots. If you get the engine and radiator hot on a dark evening, have a poke around with a small torch and look out for any wisps of steam. Pay particular attention to the areas mentioned above. If you have any trouble demisting, that may point to a weeping front heater matrix.

+1 for leaving well alone, I wouldn't go near it with flushing oil.

If the bearing feels smooth and has no play, MOT man will be happy - and certainly don't mention anything to him. What happens as a result of pressing through the bearing is that the races can be marked by the ball bearings. The bearing can feel fine initially, but the race surfaces may start to fail further down the line. There's no way of telling if this will happen, or when, so I would just see how it goes, there's no point worrying about it now. If in a year or two the bearing starts rumbling, swap it again.

You can't do much damage to the wiper assembly, just undo the mounting bolts and pull the wiper mechanism away from the pollen filter housing enough to slide the front cover out with the filter. You can take out all 3 mounting bolts if you wish, the wiper assembly doesn't move far and is easy to shuffle back into place. You may also dislodge the windscreen trims whilst fiddling, but they are also easily clipped back into place.

The bearing is a dual race angular contact type, and the centre races are in two halves. The bearing may feel a little loose until the hub is tightened up, although it should not be noticable if the hub has been pressed in correctly. When pressing the hub shaft in, it is important that the rear of the the bearing is supported around the centre race using a suitable spacer. If you pushing against the outer race or the hub carrier casting, the inner races can be forced apart, damaging the bearing.

Just bear in mind the point about the idler pulley now supplied by Ford being different to the original plastic one, and the possibility that you might have to use a small spacer/washer or similar. I'm sure it's been done though. The original plastic idler pulley was identical to the one fitted to the tensioner, and the swap was simple.

Partly the tyre profile, and partly the different internal construction of 6 or 8 ply tyres. There's a significant tyre pressure difference between 15", and 55 profile 16", even with standard or XL tyres. I run 215/55R16s around 40psi, the recommended pressures for empty are 39/36 front/rear, and as high as 42/48 for fully laden. Commercial rated tyres are rated for even heavier loads. They have different internal construction to standard tyres, and are designed to stand the higher pressures needed for the weight. Even under lower loads, they need higher pressures to maintain the correct shape.

I knew someone would know the answer!

It can be confusing, but the only answer is to stick with the tyre size and speed/load rating (or better) that was factory fitted to the car. For used cars, it is usually possible find out the original fit on the internet, and the tyre size and tyre pressures are often marked on the car somewhere. Any deviation from this would have to be agreed with your insurance company. I've seen very few Galaxys fitted with C-rated tyres in the UK, perhaps they were specified for markets where RF/XL tyres were harder to come by. C-rated van tyres are generally quite a bit more expensive than standard RF/XL tyres. I've also seen Galaxys fitted with odd non-reinforced 93 rated 215/55X16s. No doubt some of them passed MOTs with these on, it must be difficult for testers to keep track of what tyres should be fitted to every car on the road, but they should check really. Different matter with the insurance companies, if they find an incorrectly rated tyre when assessing a post-accident vehicle, you're in trouble. The bottom line is that you can't always bung any tyre on, just because it fits.

Could be, but those figures don't fit with the pressures given by the OP. Those figures are also for 8 ply C-rated tyres, the OP already said his were XL.

As sk says, a slight drift is normal. On a quiet road, try driving on the crown of the road, and on the other side - obviously when nowts coming the other way!

You can't get the pulley seperate from the tensioner. The pulley I'm on about is the idler pulley, mounted above the tensioner on the car. It just so happens that you can make this pulley fit the old tensioner and save quite a few

Both sides are the same, RH tool. Would recommend the Laser 1314 tool if you can get one... it works well, quite a few members use these. Some of the cheaper tools are not so good.

I don't think that wil fit the petrol, looking at it. The pulley on the petrol tensioner has a through hole. OP - have a read of the end of this thread, may possibly be useful. Driver's door gaiter is a good place to start for the mirror problem...

The wheels might be right, but the tyres are still wrong. :huh:

Welcome to the forum OP, by the way! B)

SK - 16" arch-style alloys were fitted as standard on later mk.1 Zetecs - mine has them.

205/55R16 tyres are the wrong size for 16" alloys on a mk.1 and you won't find a recommendation for tyre pressure for that tyre size. The load index (the maximum weight capacity) for that size in XL is only 94, which is borderline for the Galaxy - load index should really be 95 or higher. You should have 215/55R16 fitted to 16" alloys, which usually have a load rating of 97 in XL. Tyre pressures for this size should be 39-42 front and 36-48 rear, depending on loading. I wouldn't have thought that the wrong tyres would affect the accuracy of tracking adjustment, I would guess that it was either done wrong, or there is some other suspension or steering issue. Have you checked the tyre pressures, are they reasonable and even? Does the car go straight with the steering wheel held centrally? Does it pull when driving on the crown (centre) of the road?

Can't say I've heard of that one before. Faulty wiper switch maybe?

IIRC you have to follow the instructions in the link seatkid gave above, then carry out each procedure exactly as and when VAG-COM/VCDS tells you. It's a bit of a pain to do, and you really need two people, but it's the only reliable way to get the air out of the ABS. The other way is to bleed normally, then go for a rally on some loose ground to operate the ABS pump, then bleed again, then repeat as necessary... it should improve the problem, but due to the design of the ABS pump it's unlikely to get all the air out.