sparky Paul

Good info. From what i can see, solid flywheel is the way to go.

Can't recall seeing the problem on here before, so I don't think it's a common problem on the 2.3, but aluminium heads are more prone in general to thread corrosion and problems from over tightening. Helicoiling a spark plug thread is a relatively straightforward procedure, and very successful if done correctly. It is easier to do with the head off, but it should be possible to do it in situ with the right kit, and some method of removing all swarf from the cylinder. The process involves re-tapping the hole with the special helicoil tap, then fitting the helicoil with a locking/sealing compound. The helicoil is a sprung steel coil which sits in the new thread, the inside forming the replacement thread for the plug. Was the garage able to identify why the helicoil failed? Usually, problems are caused by incorrect fitting, e.g. lack of threadlock, or protrusion of the helicoil from the thread, defeating the spark plug crush seal. The 2.3 plugs are deep, but it should be possible to helicoil the threads successfully, with the right implements, and a bit of care. Are you certain that the problems are due to the helicoil, and not debris from the helicoiling fouling the valves? I hope not. If the head has been damaged by the failed helicoiling attempt, at least secondhand heads are relatively easy to come by.

Many years ago, I did a cambelt on a Rover with the Peugeot diesel engine, someone had been there before me and had cut through the bottom part of the lower belt cover, so it would slip off without removing the pulley, once unbolted. Not sure if you could do something similar?

The number of Galaxys out there with crushed sills is shocking really, I've looked at a lot of potential purchases to replace my old one and the majority now have some degree of sill damage. I reckon the only reason my sills have survived is that the only people that jack mine up are me and the bloke who does my MOTs. I want another Galaxy/Sharan, but I'm gonna limp this one on for another year or two, whilst I look for a decent replacement.

Impeller not usually a problem on the Ford engine, but it's worth checking the simple things first. Make sure that the coolant is flowing around the system properly. Start from cold, check the top rad hose to make sure hot coolant flows when the thermostat opens. Flow through the bottom hose should be noticeably cooler.

In the absence of any more helpful replies, I'm no expert on the auto boxes but here's my two penn'orth. The Jatco auto boxes on these cars are known to be problematic, and the symptoms you describe are not unusual. Some members have successfully fixed random problems by replacing the auto fluid, although this is quite an involved process. That said, you have to consider that the symptoms may be the result of more serious problems requiring major overhaul, and I'm afraid that this is quite a common outcome. Electrical issues are also reasonably common, particularly faults in the loom wiring and connectors around the gearbox. It might be worth getting someone with the VAG-COM diagnostic tool to see if any error codes are present on the gearbox, and in any case you need access to this to replace the gearbox fluid. I would have a search around the forum to read up about some of these issues, particularly if you are new to the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra.

insanitybeard is correct, fuel pump relay is separate, next to relay 30 and marked 167. Steady then fast flashing of the door LED usually points towards relay 30 problem.

Agree with the other posters above, almost all of these weird problems with lights, locking or electric windows can be traced to wiring faults in the door gaiters. As above, start with the tailgate door, then driver's door, then check the others.

Another silly question, are you sure that the 3-way thermostat was fitted the right way round? I would also add that the lack of coolant in the exhaust or oil does not necessarily rule out HGF. The first signs of HGF is almost always combustion gases in the coolant - you could get a combustion leak test done to rule it out. Are you still losing coolant? IF you are, it's going somewhere.

As xavier says, the 2.3 should have the 3-way thermostat in the pipework, and nothing in the thermostat housing on the end of the cylinder head. A thermostat is sometimes mistakenly fitted here, and this can cause all sorts of problems, however I'm guessing that this is not a new car to you and that the problem occurred suddenly. This leaves a couple of scenarios - either the system pressurised suddenly and found a weak point, i.e. the thermostat housing, or a defect in the housing caused it to burst, and subsequently caused some other damage due to sudden loss of coolant. It doesn't take long to do damage after a sudden loss of coolant, the loss of pressure causes the coolant to boil and much coolant can be ejected from the system, leaving the engine completely unprotected. The 2.3 is an extremely robust engine, but you do hear of the occasional head gasket failure. I don't think they tend to leak coolant into the oil, so I would still be looking for signs of HGF, and/or cracked head. Any smell of combustion gases in the coolant? Is the system over-pressurising?

Can't really help, mine's a mk 1 and the aircon system is completely different. Is it the part insanitybeard linked to above, or a different bit?

Oil could be dropping onto exhaust. Check as above, plus turbo oil supply pipework... start from cam cover and work downwards, find out where it's wet.

Is it a mark 1 (pre-2000) or mark 2 (2000-on) car?

A new one is about 37 quid from a seller in Poland, on that well known auction site.

If you have 300mm front discs, make sure that you buy 16" rims that were intended for cars with them. The mark 1 wheels, including 15" steels, and also the 16" Zetec 10-arch alloys which were also fitted to some early mark 2 cars, foul the calipers of later cars with 300mm discs.

I know the pipe you mean, the one which disintegrates where it crosses the chassis leg in front of the o/s front wheel arch. I've had (and fitted) two of these while I've had the car. Definitely number 8 on the ecat image. Not sure what the current situation is with these pipes, but most of them were on permanent back order some time ago - i.e. obsolete, and no longer manufactured. You may find the replacement pipes unobtainable, and if you do find them, they are not that cheap. If you have any difficulty obtaining a replacement from the dealer, you might try an aircon/refrigeration specialist to repair your original pipe, or repair yourself with Durafix rod or similar.

If there are no problems when engine is off, then clutch is not fully disengaging. Could be cover plate, slave cylinder or air in hydraulics.

There are so many reasons why a petrol engine may misfire, including low compression, ignition timing, valve timing, fuel pressure, injector timing, etc., etc., it can be difficult to diagnose accurately without actually doing the tests required. The coil pack issue is a common one, so worth checking out. Is the engine fault light (MIL) on? P0301 is a cylinder 1 misfire, if you sure this is the only trouble code raised, then I would start looking there.

Yes, the later 2.3 was fitted with two different coil pack arrangements. AFAIK, the later setup with the four output coil is more reliable, but it's certainly possible that one of the coils in the pack has gone up the spout - this would lose spark on two cylinders and give you the severe misfiring you describe. Clean plugs, unburnt fuel in the exhaust and the previous misfiring also points towards suspect coil pack. It's worth noting that the tipped spark plugs on these last 40,000 miles, and very soon go downhill at around this mileage.

Sounds like severe misfiring, possibly due to oil contamination, or lack of compression. How long (and how hard) was it driven with the oil overfilled? It's possible that you could be looking at blown piston rings, or other damage. Take the plugs out and see if, and how badly, they are fouled with oil. Clean them up with a bit of petrol and try again... If there is no improvement, I would think about getting a compression test done as it may give you some clues. Are you losing any coolant at all?

I can recommend that supplier in Germany. They sent me a back box for mine - very cheap, fast delivery and the box was excellent quality... been on about 18 months, and still looks good.

The smaller 288mm front disc setup was fitted to most mk1s, and some early mk2s, generally those with 15" wheels and the 16" arch-type Zetec alloys fitted to late mk1s and early mk2s. So, an early mk2 car like yours can have either setup... but they should of course be the same on both sides! Measure the passenger side disc. If it's 288mm diameter, then it's the same as the common 288mm disc, hub & caliper setup as for the mk1.

Scrappers or an ebay "breaking" ad are the obvious answers, though some forum members have bits lying about. Did you figure out which bits were wrong? You need to know the brake disc diameter to obtain the correct parts. From the other thread, I'll have a guess that your discs are 288mm, in which case the caliper assembly is the same as most mk.1 cars.

The pads should almost cover the full width of the machined brake disk surface, with no overhang. With only 1/3 of the disc covered, I'm guessing the pads are overhanging the disk. If so, it sounds like you have a carrier/caliper intended for the 300mm discs fitted to a car with 288mm discs. If a garage fitted this incorrect caliper, they ought to be shot, IMHO.

Yes, there's one at the back for the rear heater, above the rear nearside wheelarch. The pipework that goes to it is under the vehicle and is vulnerable to damage/corrosion. The Galaxy is not the best when it comes to demisting, but excessive problems can sometimes be traced to the pipe to the rear wash wipe leaking from a joint in the passenger front door sill. A weeping front matrix usually makes it difficult to demist with heat, accompanied by the whiff of coolant. IIRC the front heater matrix is a major dash out job on the mk.2. I'm sure someone has done it on here though, so it might be worth rooting the thread out if you suspect that's the problem. Do you have any coolant marks on the under-bonnet insulation, above the header tank?