funbus

yup, exactly as described Fankle, took me about 45mins. Pic here of footwell, pollen filter cover in centre of pic with regular rectangular cutouts

Thanks Fankle I will go try it later today.

alternatively has anyone got any diagrams etc of where the pollen/cabin filter is located in the passenger footwell of galaxy mk3/s-max please??

I've take the centre console covers off but cannot see where the filter goes, please can you look at this pic and see if I am in the right place or barking up the wrong tree?

ok thanks I will check the main fusebox under the wheel for no12 - presumably its the same place in the sharan? Where exactly is the aux fusebox in the bay anyway, I can't find it! Maybe I'm being daft....

thanks dude I'll try that one However, having just looked, where is the aux fusebox, is it behind the normal fuse panel on the drivers side? Cant see it under the bonnet.....

anyone know where this fuse is please?

yup I looked at that too, good option. would need to get the part numbers to avoid dealer confusion (easily done)

ok good advice thanks. It does roll a bit in corners now, so if its still as bad after replacing shocks we'll look at bushes and springs.

time to renew front shocks at 130k miles. But there are choices for gas or oil. I believe gas is better as its quicker responding? And more expensive.

had a regas few wks ago after replacing condenser. The regas dude said to put a can of that stuff in as it will seal any other small leaks. Note he wasnt selling it to me, he suggested go to halfords to get some. He said in his experience with older cars with small/slow leaks it had fixed quite a few 'repeat offenders' ie cars he had regassed several times before. So in his experience it does work. And is worth a punt at 20-30 quid if it does fix it.

Anyone had this replaced lately? I'm trying to find out what it should cost. My sisters 99 mk1 tdi ghia has a condenser problem it seems. There are loads of posts on condensers but I can only see one with a cost of about 370 + vat but that was a few yrs ago. My sister was quoted up to 900quid, does that seem right? I gather there is quite a bit of work involved.... ps bloomin aircon on these things, I just had mine regassed again :(

Nice one thanks for your help, that's certainly an avenue to explore. A lot cheaper than a pump I expect. Cheers.

My sis runs a 99 tdi ghiax. She broke down today, just cut out and ground to a halt. The RAC man tells her bubbles in the fuel line, prob need a new fuel pump. Anyone replaced a fuel pump, if yes how much please? Perhaps also the fuel filter needes replacing, is it part of the same component or totally separate? Cheers for any help, I don't want my sister to get ripped off by some dodgy garage dude! edit - is this the relay 30/27 type of problem???

OK, so what pump is in a '51 tdi 115ps? I bet its the Lucas isnt it, as they sound cheaper and shoddier! Anyone??

this is what i am thinking of doing - don't think it can do much harm if mixed like this. As long as you change fuel filter (a lot more) regularly. I hope you are paying your customs and excise duty :rolleyes:

anyone (with a tdi!!) ever tried using chip fat in their tank? Just been watchin fifth gear and he drove coast to coast in an old diesel merc just using chip fat. What damage would it do long term if any?? PS. My dad owns a chip shop :)

Ok u got me, the father in law helped, he's built 2 or 3 kit cars, has a workshop with bench and vice and helped me through the whole thing!

yup and do it sooner rather than later as your wiper motor is in more danger of burning out as there is considerable stress on it. I did mine recently, takes couple hrs tops. When u get the whole assembly out and get the spindles out of the casing my tip is to grind a flat onto the spindles before regreasing and putting together. This then acts as a grease reservoir to help prevent it hapnin again. it'll make sense once u have taken it apart!

Fixed this problem now. It was the first time I tried to use the TIS as a reference, my goodness no wonder ford dealers have such a bad rep if this is what they use, I'd have been better off banging my head against a wall. Anyway the symptoms were that the brakes were fading at low revs after several presses of the pedal. So, foot off accelerator, press brake, foot off brake, brake again, foot off brake, then on 3rd braking the brakes were almost non existent. Loss of vacuum at idle. This as correctly pointed out to me was a vacuum pipe problem - thanks for the advice. Just behind the fuel/brake booster pump is a check valve with an ehtylene pipe attached that runs back behind the heat shield to the bottom of the servo (or maybe master cylinder can't remember which) on the other side of bay. The pipe was split where it joins the check valve. To replace the whole pipe would have been a total mare, so instead we wrapped self-amalgamating tape around the split. This tape moulds itself together over time to form solid lump. Way easier and cheaper and quicker than replacing pipe. Problem solved. Brakes sorted. (And also found the manifold vacuum pipe was split where it enter the intake manifold so cut the end off this and resealed. Now the gal picks up from low revs loads better.)

cheers guys I will check the servo hose, probably replace it anyway just in case, as this problem does need to go away as it isn't very safe. Rough at switch off? I hadn't really noticed but I guess it could be described as a bit lumpy. Why, does that have something to do with the vacuum pump?

noticed several times that the brakes seem to be almost non-existent when crawling in traffic sometimes, and today very nearly rear ended a car whilst trying to stop quickly from about 20mph. Brakes seem to have no servo assist at slow speeds, is this just the way there are? Does anyone else get this? Or is this a symptom of some sort of issue? ps brakes are perfect at higher speeds.

yup it seems to answer a lot of questions about services etc, I was gonna suggest a link for it, I posted it previously in another thread something like "ford service schedule". I think you can pay money to get access to other technical info on that ETIS site about all sorts of repairs etc, if you really want to! But the service details bit is free :D

this may help you with service schedules, what's included etc: http://www.etis.ford.com/fordservice/serviceScheduleForm.do

Just unseized my wipers, the spindles were grinding very slowly in the sleeve, causing the motor to stop, leaving the wipers halfway down the screen until the motor kicked in again about a minute later. One minor mod was to grind a flat onto the spindle, so that it acts as grease reservoir to help avoid this happening again. Packed with marine engine grease, the most water resistant stuff I could find. All working fine now. As an aside someone mentioned changing the pollen filter at this point as it is wedged in behind the wiper mech. Strongly recommend this, mine was black, and now the fans are working twice as strongly as previous. An excellent improvement. Filter was 20quid from local spares bloke in town. Furthermore something else to watch out for is the tops of the suspension mounts - these were filled with water causing the mounting bolts to be totally rusty. So again, packed with marine grease after clearing the water out. total time to fix all this about 2.5hrs. Cheers everyone for the advice in this thread - perfect.